First time and Barrel contours for 243ai

I had a 243AI barrel for hunting that was .710 ish at the muzzle. I could put a 10rnd string through it and no POI shift. It was called a heavy sporter contour from NSS. You could even get away with a light sporter from NSS. Not that you would get an NSS, just a frame of reference. I know the contour guessing game! LOL
The guessing game is a pain, especially if it's your first time and you don't wanna mess it up. Lol
 
Agree with an overall balance of a rifle. The problem with some of the other posts is they are telling you #4 or #5 …BUT not telling you which barrel maker it is associated with. Each maker has dimensions for their barrels.

Ibelieve the VLS has a 2" breech length and a .820 muzzle.

I have moved all my steel barrels to an either a light or medium palma, with a 3" breech
 
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I believe a VLS is close to a light varmint contour. In order to use AICS binderless mags the feed ramp will need to be altered. Not a big deal for a decent gunsmith. I feed 40 degree shouldered 260 AI from the stock mag of my Rem 700. That's from the factory mag with 2.800 OAL.
 
Same here, xsn10s

I do not guess when it comes to Cartridge Base to ogive length and Cartridge over all length.

I rarely ever shoot two shots on a deer or hog....one shot, one kill. The elk that I killed were one shot each also.

Wyatts mag boxes are hands down winners especially when you are running a VLD Bullet and wanting 1/4"-3/8" or smaller groups out of your hunting rifles. Many VLD bullets shoot their very best where the bullet is touching the lands or a very slight jam, such as all my 7 Rem mags, 243 Win and AI, 6 XC, 7/08, 260 AI, and on and on. Marketing has really dumbed down reloaders, and I have never had a bullet get pulled out of a case with the bullet touching the lands on the load. However, fear of pulling the bullet out of the case has cost shooters a LOT of accuracy.

A Dremel Tool with a carbide bit can easily be used to install a Wyatt's mag box, and they make a 4.000 length box for magnums.
 
Something in the range of a "heavy sporter" is generally what I go with, unless it's either a dedicated lightweight gun not meant to fire more than a couple shots, or to the opposite extreme, a competition gun meant to fire long strings. I generally order McGowen barrels so I go with their #5.
 
Is this the rifle you are wanting to rebarrel.
What is your intended purpose, target, hunting. What size bullets are you wanting to shoot, do you want a faster twist, maybe a 7.5twt. The barrel in the picture could be a small varmint, depending on barrel manufacturer. Go to one of the barrel manufacturer web site and look at the contour and match yours to there's. Talk to a local gunsmith.
Hope this helps you. 👍
 
Is this the rifle you are wanting to rebarrel.
What is your intended purpose, target, hunting. What size bullets are you wanting to shoot, do you want a faster twist, maybe a 7.5twt. The barrel in the picture could be a small varmint, depending on barrel manufacturer. Go to one of the barrel manufacturer web site and look at the contour and match yours to there's. Talk to a local gunsmith.
Hope this helps you. 👍
If it's the vls then yes that the contour I want but when these drop down bars on the barrel building page drop idk what's what from what it just not that easy
 
Get a caliper, start at the breech off your action. Write down the size, measure out with a ruler or tape measure to where the barrel changes (smaller) write these numbers down and continue to the muzzle. Draw a barrel on paper and put the numbers on the drawing. Match with a barrel manufacturer.
Hope this helps. 👍
 
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