I am thinking about buying my first Bow. Target shooting and maybe someday hunting. At 65 I'm in good shape
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Entry level Bow?
- Thread starter Iron Worker
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Go to your local archery shop, get fitted properly, try their offerings, and go from there.
couesaddict
Well-Known Member
Best advice I could give you is find a good reputable pro shop near you and go visit them. They should have the flagship bows and some of the more entry level ones. They can set you up with multiple bows to shoot and give you lots of pointers on your form which you'll need since you're just getting into it. They'll also measure your draw length. No two bows are created equal or are best for YOU. To make the right choice I really feel you need to shoot them all and pick what feels best to you. I'm partial to Hoyt myself. Every time I buy a new bow I go in with something else in mind based on reviews but the Hoyt's just pick me. With modern technology, pretty much everyone makes a good bow these days.
My wife really likes her Hoyt Klash. It's a cheaper bow but shoots well and has a lot adjustability in both draw length and weight.
brcfo_outdoors
Well-Known Member
My first bow was a PSE Stinger. Good quality from PSE, simple, forgiving brace height, etc. I will echo the sentiment to find a good pro shop but I also know how few and far between they are. Never purchased archery equipment from a big box store and I wouldn't feel confident having them set up a bow.
Rick Richard
Well-Known Member
Hoyt or Mathews, but like everyone has advised is to go to a pro shop.
Creedmoor shooter
Well-Known Member
Go to a pro shop. Shoot them all and see what feels best. I'm a bowtech guy myself but Matthew's also makes a very good bow.
If you have never had a bow go to a good pro shop like the others have said. A GOOD pro shop being the hard part. Most are not very good, and most charge silly amounts for what they deliver. It's the price of admission if you want to look at it that way. Once the archery bug bites you hard (I will never understand how people don't get instantly addicted) you will want to learn how to take care of your own gear and acquire the tools you need to do so. Build your own arrows, etc. At that point you can buy used year old flagship bows for 20-30% less than new, two year old flagship bows for 50% of new sometimes. Minor maintenance and change the string and cable set, you have an amazing bow from companies like Matthews, Bowtech, PSE, Elite, Darton is HUGELY underrated. There are tons of really good bows that shoot amazingly well and you can buy them at relatively reasonable prices. Set them up, tune them and enjoy.
For a first bow, I have a few recommendations. DO NOT get the super duper maybe carbon fiber lightweight whizbang shazam hunting model. The bowshop will likely steer you right to this model when you say you might hunt with it and they will usually push it hard. It will be around or under 4 pounds bare, and you can shoot it in a culvert wearing a sombrero because it will be 30" or less axle to axle. All in prices new with really good accessories goes over $2K so fast you won't know what hit you. These bows are really good hunting bows and shoot great for archers with experience and good form, but they are NOT as easy to shoot as a 33-37" axle to axle bow. A heavier bow that is longer is generally going to hold a lot steadier, need less stablilizer $ spent, and typically will have a higher brace height making it a bit more forgiving of form errors while you learn to shoot. The longer axle to axle bow will have a less dramatic string angle at full draw moving the peep closer to your eye, it's just plain easier to shoot because of this and effectively lengthens the sight radius of the bow. The longer heavier bow will generally have a smoother draw cycle than a short super whiz bang hunting bow and that is a super nice trait in a bow you don't need to get every last foot per second of speed out of. Bowtech models on the comfort side of the cam are the standard that everything else should be judged against for smooth and just plain excellent draw cycle feel IMO. If you are lucky you will have a couple pro shops that you can go check stuff out at and shoot at least 6-8 different bows before you whip out the checkbook.
For a first bow, I have a few recommendations. DO NOT get the super duper maybe carbon fiber lightweight whizbang shazam hunting model. The bowshop will likely steer you right to this model when you say you might hunt with it and they will usually push it hard. It will be around or under 4 pounds bare, and you can shoot it in a culvert wearing a sombrero because it will be 30" or less axle to axle. All in prices new with really good accessories goes over $2K so fast you won't know what hit you. These bows are really good hunting bows and shoot great for archers with experience and good form, but they are NOT as easy to shoot as a 33-37" axle to axle bow. A heavier bow that is longer is generally going to hold a lot steadier, need less stablilizer $ spent, and typically will have a higher brace height making it a bit more forgiving of form errors while you learn to shoot. The longer axle to axle bow will have a less dramatic string angle at full draw moving the peep closer to your eye, it's just plain easier to shoot because of this and effectively lengthens the sight radius of the bow. The longer heavier bow will generally have a smoother draw cycle than a short super whiz bang hunting bow and that is a super nice trait in a bow you don't need to get every last foot per second of speed out of. Bowtech models on the comfort side of the cam are the standard that everything else should be judged against for smooth and just plain excellent draw cycle feel IMO. If you are lucky you will have a couple pro shops that you can go check stuff out at and shoot at least 6-8 different bows before you whip out the checkbook.
birddog 68
Well-Known Member
Did anyone mention going to a local pro shop? lol Great advice
It'll cost a little more but it's worth it and some shops have used bows. You will shoot much better with a bow that's set up properly for you.
I would recommend going during non peak times like mid winter through early summer so they will have plenty of time to help you. It's a great hobby and cost's next to nothing after the initial purchase.
It'll cost a little more but it's worth it and some shops have used bows. You will shoot much better with a bow that's set up properly for you.
I would recommend going during non peak times like mid winter through early summer so they will have plenty of time to help you. It's a great hobby and cost's next to nothing after the initial purchase.
dmj
Well-Known Member
Everyone's advice on pro shop is very good advice. One thing I would add is about draw weight. To much can develop bad habits. Good luck and hope you have years of fun and success with archery.
I'd find a bow shop.that has a large selection of different brands. Set you price point for the bow, your sights, arrow rest, release, etc will be extra. Shoot alot of bows without paying attention to the brand, that way the brand name doesn't sway your opinion. See what is the most comfortable for you. At that point you should have your answer on which bow you should get. Then do the same with the release and so on.
Set a budget. Be ready for sticker shock. Much easier to learn proper shooting form on a bow that has good range of draw weight. Takes time to build correct muscles so draw a bow properly. Starting off with too heavy of draw weight because of macho draw weight opinions by shop or yourself will result in poor form, accuracy and potential serious physiological problems like torn bicep tendon, rotator, labrum etc. Bow hunters keep ortho docs on time with condo payments. There is nothing wrong with lower poundage bows since they are fast as well. Takes time to build up muscle memory.
Bow quietness, accuracy, hand shock, grip, far more impirtant than velocity. Its a bow not a 30-06. Bows are way slower than speed of sound. Heavier spined arrows will tune better, fly better, penetrate better so forget chasing speed. Quietness and accuracy is number one goal.
Once you shoot, see "the mystical flight of the arrow", its worse than LRH. Sorry. But have fun!
Bow quietness, accuracy, hand shock, grip, far more impirtant than velocity. Its a bow not a 30-06. Bows are way slower than speed of sound. Heavier spined arrows will tune better, fly better, penetrate better so forget chasing speed. Quietness and accuracy is number one goal.
Once you shoot, see "the mystical flight of the arrow", its worse than LRH. Sorry. But have fun!
sdakotaguy
Well-Known Member
I am a fan of the good stuff & am partial to higher quality. primary thing I may add is do not over look good used flag ship bows with all of the bells & whistles.
Archery equipment depreciates dramatically. Despite what may be implied by the sales folks, if you get new strings & you probably should New bows & Flagship bow 2 to 5 years old seldom give up much when compared to the newest models. if you can find a good used flagship bow prices can be quite favorable.
May also wish to inquire over on Archery Talk.com. Wish you well.
Fairly sure someone here already suggested on asking around on checking for a good to great local pro shop.
Archery equipment depreciates dramatically. Despite what may be implied by the sales folks, if you get new strings & you probably should New bows & Flagship bow 2 to 5 years old seldom give up much when compared to the newest models. if you can find a good used flagship bow prices can be quite favorable.
May also wish to inquire over on Archery Talk.com. Wish you well.
Fairly sure someone here already suggested on asking around on checking for a good to great local pro shop.
^^^^^
Guys turn over the newest greatest bow every year like some golfers do with clubs. If its not new for the season they feel odd. Great deals can be had!
Guys turn over the newest greatest bow every year like some golfers do with clubs. If its not new for the season they feel odd. Great deals can be had!
