Durability of figured maple?

Winny94

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I've always been in love with blonde figured maple stocks, but they are considerably harder and more brittle than walnut. I have a chance to buy a fantastic maple stock for a Howa 300 WM, but it's not a bargain, and I do not want it breaking on me. Anyone with experience with figured maple and higher recoil rifles care to chime in with your thoughts? Is it worth a risk? I do plan on pillar and glass bedding it.
 
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My dad has a 5.5# 06 with scope with a maple handle. It was built in 1967 on a mauser action. Might not be a fire breathing magnum however with everything so light and the fat that he has shot the 180gn gameking with alot of Rl19 for alot of years never having a stock issue. His has a burst of orange and red in the comb and significant striping along the forearm. If I remember correctly it has an aluminum 3/8 hollow pin epoxied in the grip. I'm not positive on the pin being in that rifle or another light weight in a walnut handle though.
 
Maple should hold up fine as long as the action is properly fit and bedded. What causes wood stocks to crack for the most part is when a poorly fit action creates pressure points or has a little movement in it. Of course that movement also occurs when the trigger guard screws are loose so be sure to keep them properly torqued and you should have no problem as long as it's properly fit and bedded from the start.

Wood does require more upkeep than composites or plastics so make sure it stays well oiled and sealed otherwise changes in temperature and humidity will cause you issues with accuracy. I try to keep all of my wood stocks oiled at least 2-3 times a year and they hold up just fine, even those that have gotten pretty well beaten up over the years.
 
What has been said is accurate as it pertains to Maple stocks.

The two most popular sub species of Maple that are used to make stocks are hard and soft Maple. Silver and Red Maple are soft, and Sugar is hard. Sugar being the most widely used. Maple is not a particularly hard wood, and Silver is on the bottom end of the Janka hardness scale with red a few notches above it, and sugar quite a bit higher than Red.
When choosing a blank to make a stock out of, one must consider the following.... Typically, the more "figure" in the blank, the more susceptible is is to breakage. One must also consider the proper layout with grain structure flowing through the grip area, and the use of a quarter sawn blank. Most customers I talk to want the greatest amount of figure they can get for the money. It's up to me to lay the stock out properly on the blank to insure structural integrity throughout. Burl is beautiful to look at, but lacks structural integrity.
The sporter stock styles with the open grip offer less chance of breakage in the grip area over the vertical style grip stocks. I typically install a steel pin in the grip of the tactical style stocks as a precautionary measure.
I had a customer want me to make him a stock with a full burl blank. I refused to as I know that the burl offers no strength. He settled on a laminated blank that I made from Madrone burl, which is slightly stronger than Maple, but not much. I cautioned him against breakage. This was a lightweight .17 Hornet build. Long story short... The stock broke when he dropped it. The burl is brittle, and offers no strength. I pinned it back together and made it useable again.
The bottom line is, if you go to a reputable stock builder, he will properly lay out the stock to give you the best combination of structural integrity and presentation of the figure present in the blank.
 

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What has been said is accurate as it pertains to Maple stocks.

The two most popular sub species of Maple that are used to make stocks are hard and soft Maple. Silver and Red Maple are soft, and Sugar is hard. Sugar being the most widely used. Maple is not a particularly hard wood, and Silver is on the bottom end of the Janka hardness scale with red a few notches above it, and sugar quite a bit higher than Red.
When choosing a blank to make a stock out of, one must consider the following.... Typically, the more "figure" in the blank, the more susceptible is is to breakage. One must also consider the proper layout with grain structure flowing through the grip area, and the use of a quarter sawn blank. Most customers I talk to want the greatest amount of figure they can get for the money. It's up to me to lay the stock out properly on the blank to insure structural integrity throughout. Burl is beautiful to look at, but lacks structural integrity.
The sporter stock styles with the open grip offer less chance of breakage in the grip area over the vertical style grip stocks. I typically install a steel pin in the grip of the tactical style stocks as a precautionary measure.
I had a customer want me to make him a stock with a full burl blank. I refused to as I know that the burl offers no strength. He settled on a laminated blank that I made from Madrone burl, which is slightly stronger than Maple, but not much. I cautioned him against breakage. This was a lightweight .17 Hornet build. Long story short... The stock broke when he dropped it. The burl is brittle, and offers no strength. I pinned it back together and made it useable again.
The bottom line is, if you go to a reputable stock builder, he will properly lay out the stock to give you the best combination of structural integrity and presentation of the figure present in the blank.

Great info thank you. In your professional opinion, would this be suitable for a 300wm?
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The stock appears to have been laid out with the proper grain flow through the wrist. Figure appears to be moderate. If there are no unseen issues, then I would say Yes, as long as your barreled action is "properly" bedded in it.
 
Thank you very much - odds are I will probably end up going with a HS or B&C synthetic stock as I need as much margin for error as possible, but good info in case I decide to go this route.
 
My pleasure... Mudrunner alerted me to the thread, not sure how I missed it.
Next trip to TX I'll have to look you up, looks like we have a few things I common.
 
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