Crimping Question

shamu2240

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2015
Messages
117
So I'm loading up some 166 grin hammer hunters for my 300WM and after reading the posts on hammers I decided to try my hand at crimping. How do I know if I have the correct amount of crimp to start out with? I know there are many variables but I don't want to waste components on doing things the wrong way. I'll attach a picture so you can see what I'm talking about. I set up the LFC die per the directions I found over on the hammer forum. I ended up going two 1/8th turns, did I put too much crimp on it? Are you supposed to see the crimp ring and the slots from the collet fingers in the brass?
IMG-9425.jpg
 
I've never left such a deep mark on my crimps but I actually am revisiting my methods as I also just reread the tips on Hammer forum. Previously I've been using my "zero" setting where the die touches the shell holder absent a cartridge. With that zero a 1/2 turn gives very light crimp. Now I read that "zero" should be where die collets just touch cartridge placed in shell holder. I'd expect more like 1/8 turn but not tried it yet with that zero. Either way I'd try backing off a bit; except your groupings should tell you what is best.
 
I agree with the rest of comments,sometimes less is better.
As David_h says check your groups.I started out barely touching and loaded 2 rounds and labeled them as light,then crimped a quarter turn more and labeled them.I did 5 different 2 loaded loads with progressive heaverier crimps and found where my groups started to widen out.
Your rifle may be different than mine.
 
So I'm loading up some 166 grin hammer hunters for my 300WM and after reading the posts on hammers I decided to try my hand at crimping. How do I know if I have the correct amount of crimp to start out with? I know there are many variables but I don't want to waste components on doing things the wrong way. I'll attach a picture so you can see what I'm talking about. I set up the LFC die per the directions I found over on the hammer forum. I ended up going two 1/8th turns, did I put too much crimp on it? Are you supposed to see the crimp ring and the slots from the collet fingers in the brass?View attachment 493769
 
Thanks for the input everyone. When I first crimped it, I just felt like it didn't do anything so I kept going. I feel like less is more in the case of the crimp, at least to start with.

Thanks for the video ButterBean, I haven't gotten a chance to watch it yet but I will before I get back to it.
 
I just had an afterthought while reading over the comments again. Another reason as to why I think I went too far is that I was expecting my seating depth to change when I crimped it. So when it didn't I got worried that I wasn't crimping it hard enough.
 
Crimping, not crimping, and/or how much to crimp is all very experimental. I've been shooting the 143HH in a new custom rifle. Results at 400yds weren't very impressive. I decided to try again without crimping. The rifle started to printing groups just under 2" at 417yds.
While some guys have had good results with crimping, I have found that there is no hard and fast rule as to crimping Hammer bullets or any other bullets. The only thing you can do is test things in your rifle, with your load.

BTW - my .308 loads use crimps as heavy as the one you posted, and they shoot very well with the 150 PH bullet.
 
Don't squash bullet jackets real bad. The primary objective is uniform neck tension, round to round and pressure uniformity.
One of my rodent rifles is a .204 R. Best accuracy occurred with bullets seated about .12 into case, leaving doubts about ammo integrity & uniform neck tension. A minor neck crimp using a Lee factory crimp die, leaving a slight bullet ring, fixed the problem resulting in happy confidence when using the .204R against rodents.
 
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