Coyote hunting tips

Hopefully we have answered a lot of questions for the new coyote hunter. With the start of a new season I thought we should open up the thread. Let's still do tips but add, coyote stories, questions, recent hunt pictures and stories. I hope everyone gets involved and tells us about their hunt, successful or not.
 
Just taking interest myself. Read all the previous posts from #1 on. Not much talk about the best time of day to hunt coyotes. Is there a best time? Do they lay up during the middle of the day?
 
Crepuscular, an animal that is more active at the twilight hours of dawn and dusk. " Do they lay up during the middle of the day?" I want to say yes. However, I hate to label the coyote as crepuscular. He is the ultimate survivor and adapts to his environment. There is none better. For example the city coyote has learned for him to survive he must be totally nocturnal. The county coyote knows every vehicle carries a range rifle. Therefore, he is nocturnal and crepuscular. The wilderness coyote without humane contact hunts as his stomach dictates. None of these are written in stone as the coyote will hunt during the day when prey is hard to come by and hunger sets in. He will also hunt twenty four seven when he has a family to feed and hunting is tough. The best time to hunt them is at night. They feel safer at night. Plus, they are more likely to let their guard down. That is also when two of their favorites are most active. The rabbit and the hare. The next best time would be the first thirty minutes of daylight and the last thirty minutes. Add the timing of a front and you are bound to increase your odds. Hunt right before or immediately after the front. Then add in the months of September and October. Hunt these months because there are a lot of fresh ears out there. Young coyotes that have not heard a call. Making them vulnerable. Put these tips together whenever possible. Get out there, take a youngster, and make a memory.
 
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Full mount, rug, or just want to get your trophy tanned? Have a plan. Know what you want and how to take care of it before you get it down. Take the time to do the research necessary to find a good taxidermist. Do not short cut this process. Every time I have used someone because they were close or less money I was disappointed. Take the time to look at their work and talk to previous clients.This is a trophy filled with memories that you will be proud of. You want this to last a lifetime so forget cutting corners. The taxidermist should be able to tell you how they would like you to handle your trophy in the field plus how to ship it to them if necessary.
 
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Try and be above in coming Yotes

Also have a pistol in your lap or handy, you'd be surprised what can show up behind you.

Best tip is; see if you can find an Herbs Howler.. cow horn not that plastic crap..it can't be beat.
Original Herb's Howlers

Cheer's
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I have an original Herbs Howler, it was rude and crude even when it was new. I hardly use it anymore but it was one of the first howlers on the market.
 
Howling has the benefit of producing vocalizations that allow the members of the coyotes social group to locate and identify their piers. They use these howls to gather for territorial defense, cooperative hunting, and social activities. Studies have shown that information is encoded in these howls. Such things as identity, size, age, sex, and emotional state can all be transmitted. Coyotes live in social groups that range in size from two to seven. An Alpa pair and their off spring. They live and hunt in the same general area. Usually separated by a couple of football fields. Howling is their cell phone. We can use howling to peak a coyotes curiosity to get a physical response or group howls to get a vocal location. I use a very non aggressive loan howl presentation to entice a visual response. I never bark when howling. The group howl is used to get a vocal response for location. I use an electric caller for this howl. However, up to seventy percent of the coyotes in an area can be transients and will not answer. Therefore, do not totally rule out an area if you do not get a response.
 
If you think you have a coyote figured out, guess again. Coyotes will produce head scratching in the most profound ways. Coyotes are not unlike humans. They don't like to bust through thick brush. They don't like to hang out in the rain. When they are hungry, they are usually hangry. And they are defensive over their mates and children.
Playing on a coyotes instincts can help a lot with a successful hunt. You can't just throw out a distress sound and think a coyote is going to come running to the dinner bell. It's best to see what they could be eating, how much of that food is in the area and how difficult it is for them to get that food. If they are well fed, the weather is good and they don't have any hardships, sometimes distress calls won't work. Then there is the weather. Just like us when we run to get the bread and milk before a snow storm coyotes think almost the same. When the weather is nasty, it's harder to hunt. Thus the coyote will try to get some grub before mother nature takes a dump.
Then there is breeding season. Breeding for coyotes is tricky as males will mate with multiple females, sometimes crossing into enemy territory. Female submissive howls may work, but sometimes male challenge howls get a better response. And during this time, mommy coyote also has the motherly instinct, so a pup distress can help too. Birthing season is a tough time to hunt. Mothers do not venture away from dens very often, so calling in one from a distance usually will not work. Again, pup distress will work sometimes, but not always. Daddy coyote has left and will probably end up on Maury Povich being told "you might be the father". After mating season is over, mommy coyote usually kicks her donor to the curb and forces him out of the area of the den. The only thing he is worried about is the occasional dinner and not crossing paths with another male coyote.
Then there are the rogue coyotes that follow none of these rules, show up when you don't expect it and act completely different than most coyotes. These are usually yearling coyotes that are uneducated and have not learned how the world works. These usually wind up catching a fast moving pill to cure their stupidity.
The best advice that I can give anyone is to study the area that is being hunted, look at shelter, food and water, ease of travel for the coyote, weather patterns and what time of year it is and then try everything you can. Because a coyote will change the rules as they see fit and there is nothing anyone can do about it.
 
If you are going to do any skinning a small knife with a small extra sharp blade is an asset. I really like my Havalon. The replaceable extra sharp blades are great out in the field. Other companies are making these now so you can shop around for different handles.
 
I carry a small skinning kit with me in the field. Some of the ranches I hunt are big and don't have fence posts conveniently located for skinning, so I have to carry the dogs aways. I use an old camera strap with ribbon strap attached at the ends for this purpose. I have a set of rubber gloves, small folding skinning knife like the Schrade Old Timer (though I wish they had a locking system built into it), plastic bags, and small S-hook to support the back leg tendon against the barbs on the fence. The main support is the T-post top that's just small enough to allow the back leg tendon to slide over it. Works perfect for skinning. I never take a carcass back home anymore--it's a pain to get rid of them. It's important to kill the fleas (especially if you're married) and the best way IMO is to freeze the fur for a day or so. Then process it. Keep your hunting clothes in the garage if you kill a dog and have to carry it +/or skin it. Fleas will get on you (and hide on your clothes so they can jump on your wife when they can).

Howling is the ace-in-the-hole that'll save you frequently especially if it's too warm for coyotes to want to respond to your calling. They will almost always sit up and look your way even if sleeping. They'll often just raise their heads or get up and look then lay back down momentarily allowing you to spot them and stalk them for the shot. Killed many this way over the years. Coyotes are actually surprisingly easy to stalk within several hundred yds., and I have often gathered my gear after spotting them and gone straight to them in the open if I'm moving methodically, with no bouncing or anything that sticks out from the edge of my silhouette. I always use a camo mask now as I do this since I'm pretty sure I've spooked more than a few coyotes over the years from the shine of my face.

Always try and stop a coyote (with a loud bark or even growl) especially if he's broadside for a shot. This will often give you more time for the shot as it almost invariably immobilizes a typically extremely mobile animal.
 
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Patience, persistence, and a few extra minutes on a stand can pay off big.
 
Find a barded wire fence.
Sit down facing bottom or second bottom wire.
Place boot on wire and give it the hard but short work over.
Give the wire another short work over,,, but that time you used your rabbit in distress crying call.

Bunker down in full cammo and get ready.
Coyotes will be coming in fast.

Do not, I repeat do not make any more sounds from that point on.
Dogs can hear this from 2 to 5 miles away

Their hearing is so refined that they will pin point where the sound came with in 100 to 200 feet.

They will be on you so fast you will barely have time to swing and start jacking them rounds.
Sometimes 2 show up for the feast of its first come first served.

Pretend you are the rabbit.
Not to aggressive on the wire, but not to soft either.
PS: rabbits are pretty loud when they are snagged.

Again. A few short work overs and be ready before doing the work over.
The only thing that should move is your head with camo beliclava.

Non noise material like soft wool / polyester.
Your camo gear should be quiet if it scratches up against a stick, no crumpluing sounds if you move.

Dead silent of silent.
Even your rifle needs to be hush hush.
Dogs have awesome hearing and instinctive sight of 5 to 7 X's easy.

The wize dogs are at 9.

Western Canada Don
 
I was excited when I got permission to hunt 600 acres two and a half hours north of Amarillo. The main reason why is that a friend told me it had a prairie dog town. I had always heard that coyotes always hung around prairie dog towns. I couldn't wait. I got up early and got there just as the sun was breaking. Could not have been more disappointed. This place looked like a pool table. No cactus, no mesquite, no vegetation, no character, and very few prairie dog mounds. We had been in a drought. The property had been over grazed and the prairie dogs poisoned. Well now what. I pulled the truck over to the side of the dirt road grabbed my gear and walked to the middle of the devastated dog town. I sat down and put the bi-pod down on the 22-250. The sun was coming up on my left. I was facing a small ravine a mile in front of me. Off to my right was a farm house miles in the distance. Everywhere else was flat and feature less. I cranked out my best dying jack rabbit rendition on the old wooden mouth call. Waited a few minutes and then tried again. I caught movement out of the corner of my right eye! It was a young coyote coming hard. He had me nailed. I couldn't move. He kept coming right behind me until I could no longer see him. I thought I could hear him breathing. I sat there motionless till I just couldn't stand it any longer. I swung the 22-250 from the hip. BANG! The coyote was less than two feet away. Fur flew from the belly of the coyote as he launched himself straight up. He hit the ground in high gear with a swarm of angry 55 grain hornets right behind. A couple of lessons learned here. Always carry a shotgun and do not be afraid to call in wide open spaces.
 
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