Converting inch’s to mils
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Starlite
Well-Known Member
OP,
Not that this is in any way an answers to your question; as I already commented on what formula I would use. But more of a suggestion on this technique to save bullets and give you how many clicks (mils or MOA).
with your rifle supported (lead-sled etc
1. take up your same POA and don't let the rifle move.
2. Take note what click value your scope dials are at and write them down for ref in case you get distracted and/or forget. Or more importantly if things go a muck. you'll at least be able to get back to the last shot. This is a wisdom talking point. OK next:
3. Move your reticle to your last impact. You can do both wind and elevation at once to save yourself a shot or just the Y or X axis At a time. My advice would be only adjust the wind dial especially if your only shooting a little low / high @ 63Yd. Make your final elevation adjustment once you get to your final zeroed range (actual or ballistic/calculated (like whats listed on a box of ammunition if you know what I mean.
4.Now re-aim back to your last POA and shoot. If you did your Part and the rifle is an accurate one then you hit that axis spot
5. count the difference in Clicks. This part is really more of a teaching point of how many mils/MOA you moved.
Good luck on your milling journey. IMHO it's (when paired up with the metric system) the easiest way to navigate with a simple non-mil rad scope (like a simple cross hair reticle) at the range. With a mil/mil scope or a MOA/MOA if you can read your reticle correctly you'll always have the easier way to communicate shots so as to get on target. what ever works. Just make sure you and the spotter are on the same page too. Mil-mil or MOA-MOA. Nothing worse then someone saying 3 clicks left on the MOA dial when your on a mil rad dial. Been there. Came in last.
Not that this is in any way an answers to your question; as I already commented on what formula I would use. But more of a suggestion on this technique to save bullets and give you how many clicks (mils or MOA).
with your rifle supported (lead-sled etc
1. take up your same POA and don't let the rifle move.
2. Take note what click value your scope dials are at and write them down for ref in case you get distracted and/or forget. Or more importantly if things go a muck. you'll at least be able to get back to the last shot. This is a wisdom talking point. OK next:
3. Move your reticle to your last impact. You can do both wind and elevation at once to save yourself a shot or just the Y or X axis At a time. My advice would be only adjust the wind dial especially if your only shooting a little low / high @ 63Yd. Make your final elevation adjustment once you get to your final zeroed range (actual or ballistic/calculated (like whats listed on a box of ammunition if you know what I mean.
4.Now re-aim back to your last POA and shoot. If you did your Part and the rifle is an accurate one then you hit that axis spot
5. count the difference in Clicks. This part is really more of a teaching point of how many mils/MOA you moved.
Good luck on your milling journey. IMHO it's (when paired up with the metric system) the easiest way to navigate with a simple non-mil rad scope (like a simple cross hair reticle) at the range. With a mil/mil scope or a MOA/MOA if you can read your reticle correctly you'll always have the easier way to communicate shots so as to get on target. what ever works. Just make sure you and the spotter are on the same page too. Mil-mil or MOA-MOA. Nothing worse then someone saying 3 clicks left on the MOA dial when your on a mil rad dial. Been there. Came in last.
SFMongo
Active Member
One Mil is One Meter at a Thousand meters 10 centimeters at 100 meters so 2.54 inches at 100 meters so you can figure 2.5 MOA is more or less 10 mils at 100 yards / meters more or less.. It ain't rocket science..
Starlite
Well-Known Member
That's a lot of rocket surgery there. Think you better duck for cover. Besides think the OP found many formulas to his question. On second thought might as well Throw your formula for the 63yd question in here too. In my opinion though, going back and forth between imperial and metric isn't all that helpful in an equation involving mils. Again Just my 2c.
Hugnot
Well-Known Member
In our world of inches & yards, (1 inch = 2.54 cm)
63 yards, 36 inches per yard, 63* 36 = 2,268 inches
1 mil, 1,000 TH. of what ever, 2268 inches/1000 = 2.268 inches per mil at 63 yards
then, knowing your scope has 1/10 mil clicks, 2.268/10 = .2268 or .23 inches per click at 63 yards.
9 &18 inches are common sizes, lots of items out there can be measured - barbed wire fences, T posts, rail road tie posts. Range finders are common. Buller drop & windage info.
500 yards * 36 inches per yard = 18,000 inches, 18,000/1000 = 18 inches or 1 mil fit at 500.
crank your RFP or 2nd FP scope up to where the reticle hash marks represent 1 mil and at 500 yards an 18 inch object will fit nicely between hash marks.
peer thru your FFP or 1st FF scope and forget about cranking the power up, except the reticle features get real small at low powers.
All this gets into measuring various objects looking for mil sizes like: (1.5", 87.5 yds.), (3" 175 yds.), (9", 250 yds.), (18", 500 yds.), & (36", 1000 yds.). Lots of abandoned farm vehicles have 18 inch diameter or so wheels and weeds growing thru windows.
A cheapy pocket calculator is helpful should you have a mil dot reticle & 1/4 MOA click adjustments.
63 yards, 36 inches per yard, 63* 36 = 2,268 inches
1 mil, 1,000 TH. of what ever, 2268 inches/1000 = 2.268 inches per mil at 63 yards
then, knowing your scope has 1/10 mil clicks, 2.268/10 = .2268 or .23 inches per click at 63 yards.
9 &18 inches are common sizes, lots of items out there can be measured - barbed wire fences, T posts, rail road tie posts. Range finders are common. Buller drop & windage info.
500 yards * 36 inches per yard = 18,000 inches, 18,000/1000 = 18 inches or 1 mil fit at 500.
crank your RFP or 2nd FP scope up to where the reticle hash marks represent 1 mil and at 500 yards an 18 inch object will fit nicely between hash marks.
peer thru your FFP or 1st FF scope and forget about cranking the power up, except the reticle features get real small at low powers.
All this gets into measuring various objects looking for mil sizes like: (1.5", 87.5 yds.), (3" 175 yds.), (9", 250 yds.), (18", 500 yds.), & (36", 1000 yds.). Lots of abandoned farm vehicles have 18 inch diameter or so wheels and weeds growing thru windows.
A cheapy pocket calculator is helpful should you have a mil dot reticle & 1/4 MOA click adjustments.
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Yes but I've been working in metric for 40yrs.
TRexF16
Well-Known Member
I know the OP got his question answered 4 times on the first page, so I'm actually glad to see a new twist on his situation. But I am trying to get my arms around the bolded statement above. I think 63 yard zero will be low at 100 yards. Without doing the math I am picturing the bullet intersecting the LOS from below at around 30-40 yards and back on from above at 63. Doesn't a 100 yard zero normally cross the LOS for the first time at around 25 yards or so? So a a 63 yard zero would cross the LOS for the first time a bit further out?
Any others have a thought on this? Not trying to be argumentative at all, just curious.
Thanks,
Rex
TRexF16
Well-Known Member
I couldn't stand it so I just ran the numbers for a plain Jane Remington Factory 30-06 180 SPCL with a 63 yard zero. Tool shows it hitting .1" low at 100 yards. That's at sea level standard day.
Cheers,
Rex
Cheers,
Rex
DMP25-06
Well-Known Member
TRexF16 ,
I stand corrected .
I just used the Berger Ballistic calculator and ran a .308 Win , 175 gr bullet @ 2650 FPS , scope height is 1.5" above bore centerline . With a 63 yard zero , the bullet was .1 inch low of dead center at 100 yards .
A 6.5 CM with 140gr . VLD @2650 FPS , with scope 1.5" above bore centerline was also .09" below dead center at 100 yards .
A 7mm 180gr Hybrid @ 3000 FPS , with scope mounted 1.8" above bore Centerline was .31" above dead center at 100 yards .
I tend to run my cartridge velocities a bit faster than those listed above , so I was basically replying from my own experiences , and results obtained from my rifles .
DMP25-06
DMP25-06
Well-Known Member
The above cartridges that I referenced were ALL at a 63 yard zero .
By the way , in this example , the bullet is below the line of sight from muzzle out to 63 yards , and the 63 yard zero IS the point where line of sight and bullet intersect , and with most modern cartridges and rifle/scope mounting heights , the bullet will continue to rise above the line of sight from that distance until it's arc of flight reaches the apex and begins downward curve .
Taller scope mounting heights , higher velocities , and higher bullet Ballistic Coefficient all have an effect on the curvature of the arc of flight of the bullet ,
DMP25-06
By the way , in this example , the bullet is below the line of sight from muzzle out to 63 yards , and the 63 yard zero IS the point where line of sight and bullet intersect , and with most modern cartridges and rifle/scope mounting heights , the bullet will continue to rise above the line of sight from that distance until it's arc of flight reaches the apex and begins downward curve .
Taller scope mounting heights , higher velocities , and higher bullet Ballistic Coefficient all have an effect on the curvature of the arc of flight of the bullet ,
DMP25-06
Starlite
Well-Known Member
DMP25-06
I didn't even think twice about the your response because I assumed he wasn't (the OP) zeroed yet but …also these days I, like others use apps like: Hornady, SigSauer bdx and Nikon to plot their trajectory so I never paid it much attention. Good catch though.
I didn't even think twice about the your response because I assumed he wasn't (the OP) zeroed yet but …also these days I, like others use apps like: Hornady, SigSauer bdx and Nikon to plot their trajectory so I never paid it much attention. Good catch though.
DMP25-06
Well-Known Member
SFMongo ,
Actually , 1 Mil-Radian ( mil ) , is 1/6400 of a degree in angular measurement , which equals 3.6" at 100 yards , or 3' at 1000 yards .
So , 1/10 of a mil = 0.36" at 100 yards . It has nothing to do with 10 centimeters at 100 meters .
1 Mil-radian ( mil ) in metric measurement is equal to 1 Meter at 1000 Meters or 39.6" at 1000 meters .
DMP25-06
1 MOA is 1/60 of a degree which is 1.047" at 100 yards?
