controlling recoil lightweight rifle

[rockwind]

i usually shoot with an atlas and rear bag prone. but recently was trying a very lightweight 300 saum, shooting it out of a basic caldwell rest and rear bag on a bench. i guess i have been spoiled but the recoil was definetely more than i was expecting. not sure how i would do any load testing with it because the accuracy is going to be well off . maybe it is just me. anyone else have any tips. i am not up for using a lead sled, if that is the only answer. i have tried putting my off hand on the scope, light resting to reduce muzzle rise but once again, the overall recoil is pretty rough. assuming the rifle is 1/2 moa capable, don't think i could make it do that.

 

[dfanonymous]

 

[dfanonymous]

Though it's understandable to get more push or recoil movement in bigger cartridges. Alls that matters is it repeats and that you can follow the shot. Make sure you're shoulder is doing the job with the right pressure. It also helps if the toe of the rifle isn't hitting the rear bag in anyway weird and that the recoil pad is flat and inline with your body.

 

[Deleted member 107796]

Take a look at your recoil pad. Is it a hard rubber or very resilient, like the Limbsavers? IMO, a good pad is a game changer to tame recoil.

 

[26Reload]

Shoot it....learn it.....if all it is to be is a bench rifle..oh well....
If it's your hunting rifle....learn to tske the recoil...
I actually put my left hand up in front of the scope and a couple fingers over the barrel while at the bench...while hunting always holding onto the rifle...so figure out your grip points....

 

[Muddyboots]

Your bench posture also has a lot to do with felt recoil. The lower you are to the bench, the more recoil will be directly transferred to you. Try being more vertical in your bench posture to allow your shoulder to act as recoil absorber that can move back with it. The lower you sit, the less your shoulder can move backward thus more felt recoil. You kind of want your body to absorb and rebound from it. Its like shooting prone versus off cross sticks. Prone transfers the recoil right into your body length while off the sticks, your body can rebound a bit from it.
Scroll through this thread, lot of good suggestions:
https://www.longrangehunting.com/threads/recoil-what-recoil.217450/
Muddy

 

[aushunter1]

i usually shoot with an atlas and rear bag prone. but recently was trying a very lightweight 300 saum, shooting it out of a basic caldwell rest and rear bag on a bench. i guess i have been spoiled but the recoil was definetely more than i was expecting. not sure how i would do any load testing with it because the accuracy is going to be well off . maybe it is just me. anyone else have any tips. i am not up for using a lead sled, if that is the only answer. i have tried putting my off hand on the scope, light resting to reduce muzzle rise but once again, the overall recoil is pretty rough. assuming the rifle is 1/2 moa capable, don't think i could make it do that.

I can sympathise with you as I am trying to do LD at the moment for a 300wsm which is very comparable ballistically with the 300 SAUM in a Browning BLR LW & I'm being tested by it.
I am also using similar set up, caldwell rock front rest, leather rear bag.
Tried adding a pachmayr slip on recoil pad but had minimal effect.

I just wanted it to be manageable so I could get my hunting loads sorted as off the bench its not nearly as bad which is to be expected.

I have a pretty sound technique & have tried just about everything but still I have been scoped nearly every time I shoot it off the bench.

SO anyway I am now going to be cheating, I am having custom grizzly clamp on(due to front sight) muzzle brake made for it which will bring the recoil right back to say a .243 hopefully.

You don't mention the rifle but Imo if you want to be comfortable & get the rifle shooting get it braked, get the muzzle threaded if possible.

OR by a sled.

Otherwise you will not enjoy it & even end up possibly developing a flinch or just selling it!

Just my 2 cents worth.

 

[rockwind]

i have used a slip on limbsaver and of course a brake would be awesome. seems like a lot of the featherweight rifles just don't have threaded ends.

anyway, thanks for all the advice, appreciated

 

[aushunter1]

i have used a slip on limbsaver and of course a brake would be awesome. seems like a lot of the featherweight rifles just don't have threaded ends.

anyway, thanks for all the advice, appreciated

No problems.

You could get your smith to put a thread on which would be the better way to go or just go a clamp on muzzle brake. like I have.

Good luck with it.

 

[26Reload]

As has been said in a few other threads....if you have a noodle barreled rifle there PROBABLY ISNT enogh metal to thread the muzzle....clamp-on only way to go....
With a Sims vibration pad on the stock you shouldn't feel enough kick to even worry about pain....if shooting heavy bullets there will be more barrel jump.....try a few lighter bullet loads and see if you can handle the rifle better....
I noticed with my noodle barrel 280ai there is much more barrel jump with 168lrab...but i have a few hundred left to send down the pipe....great for plinking I guess......

 

[Don A Parsons]

I totally agree with the above posts...

Not sure if this will help you,,, it won't cost you nothing but time.

Try some dry firing with cross hairs on target and try some in the dark room,,, practic bringing the Butt stock pad into your shoulder,,, us TR folks like to bring the stock pad into place the same every time,,, that way we get a mental picture of how each shot plays out...

Then adapte this to your prone or bench shooting,,, find a way to set-up for the shot with the deep sub conscience in working order...

Yha I know it sounds stupid,,, but what the heck,,, the one thing that comes of it might be you'll sure know where the trigger let off point is,,, and a chance you can bring the follow through shot into the picture...

That's a bonus in my books.

Good luck going forward into the good times.

Don

 

[TJAY]

I use a past recoil shield like this one for bench work.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013R8J48/?tag=lrhmag19-20

 

[arch408]

Simple physics. Every action has a opposite and equal reaction. The lighter the weight, the more felt recoil. Muzzle brakes work. I have a fairly light weight .338 RUM. Before I installed a muzzle brake, the recoil was viscous. Now it is very manageable. I was leery of using a "standard" 1/2 x 28 thread because the muzzle would have been very thin. The barrel wasn't big for the other "standard" 5/8 diameter, so I ordered a 9/16 X 32 tap and threaded the barrel on a lathe and had excellent results. Several people have shot my rifle and nobody thought that the recoil was bad.

 

[codyadams]

As stated, if possible get it threaded by a smith and have a brake installed. Though on a 30 cal, 1/2x28 thread is pushing it. 9/16 diameter or larger is preferred, though some smiths will do a 1/2" thread on a 30 cal.

When I am developing loads for people and shooting light hard hitting calibers in light guns (a sporter Ruger #1 in 300 wm shooting 215's comes to mind) there are several things I do. I try to be as upright as possible. To prevent from flinching, many times I will do 3-5 dry fires prior to the actual shot. I will imagine in my mind that when I take the shot, it is just going to be a "click" like the other dry fires. I literally try to trick myself into thinking the gun is unloaded, I even go as far as to not look at the cartridge as I chamber it. In that Ruger #1, I ended up getting it to group in the .3's and .4's with 5 shots. And I also needed to take an Excedrin after shooting it, it gave me headaches almost every time from the violent jarring.

I know it sounds strange, but the act of shooting heavy recoiling guns consistently and with good form is 95% mental. Put yourself in the right place mentally when you shoot, and you will get the most out of that rifle.