chambering by hand 6.5x47mm

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vipersnest

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Im wanting to build a 6.5x47mm in remington700..my plans are to get a 6.5x47mm short chambered barrel and install it using with a comp recoil lug then by hand finish cutting chamber with a reamer and tee handle working slow and keeping it clean of course and checking with my headspace gauge..doing it this way means i want have to cut the shoulder of barrel on a lathe as long as the comp recoil lug doesn't mess up my short chamber throwing my barrel to far forward and i have never cut a chamber before so im looking for some input from someone with knowledge and have done this before..i plan to true the bolt lugs and action prior to barrel install and my worries are about chatter during cutting the chamber and the chamber being thrown to far forward by the recoil lug..I've trued actions and bolt lug before and crowned muzzles all by hand but this is a big step and not a cheap mistake if i mess up..any input I would be greatful for..I know I could go to gunsmith with a lathe but this is something i want to do and learn.. Thanks
 
I haven't done this yet myself, I think is goes, lap the lugs, install/time the barrel (I don't think timing is critical unless there is an extractor cut, gas port, or frontsight dovetail slot), then finish cut the chamber 'till the headspace is correct, in relation to the face of the bolt.
 
Using the Mason precision receiver accurizing system but brownells has a receiver face cutter for truing the face by hand also
 
I do all of my chambering by hand, using a "finish" reamer, after "short" chambering on lathe. If I can , I use a BERGARA bbl if available in cal. I want.
 
Cet this crazy idea out of your head right now. You are going into a colasal waste of money. 1st your going to true the reciever threads and face with out truing the bolt, why even bother, the reamer and tap procedure is not as good as single point truing, I have proven that to myself. Why spend $300+ for tooling and only have the job done part way.

So now that you cut your threads oversize, your going to screw on a barrel that will have a thread fit that is .010+ undersize, How is that going to help your accuracy?

Your whole process is flawed now with a thicker lug you will definatly have to set the shoulder back in a lathe so the bolt nose counterbore actually comntains the bolt nose, headspace don't mean **** if you have .050-.100" of unsuported case waiting to blow out into your face.

Your asking for advice on somthing you don't have much knowledge on.
Save your money and and take your action and barrel to a smith and have it done right, before you hurt yourself or someone else.
 
Roy, that may have been a little harsh. and I have nothing against a guy doing his smith projects on his own.

But, there are some projects that if done improperly can and will cause someone to get hurt. From the info in this post it was one of them.

OP, If you really want to fit a short chambered barrel, forget about the action truing, buy a deapth mic, fit a standard thickness factory or aftermarket lug, and find good information on the subject before you begin. In most instances if the barrel was set up properly you can get away with hand reaming to finish depth.
OR stick with savages.
 
royinidaho said:
Jim,

You're brutal.......spot on! but still brutal.:D
Click to expand...
Might be because anyone in the business hears this kind of 'dreaming' every day! Procedures not thought all the way through or done not even knowing why , ideas that aren't feasible, things recommended on forums that can/may cause physical and or property damage or even death. I've thought many times about changing my signature to; "Gunsmithing,,,,, So easy a Caveman Can Do It!":cool:
 
Spot on good advice. There are more dimensions than headspace to be considered. The OPs idea was going to lead to bad stuff happening.

Coyboy said:
Your whole process is flawed now with a thicker lug you will definatly have to set the shoulder back in a lathe so the bolt nose counterbore actually comntains the bolt nose, headspace don't mean **** if you have .050-.100" of unsuported case waiting to blow out into your face.

Your asking for advice on somthing you don't have much knowledge on.
Save your money and and take your action and barrel to a smith and have it done right, before you hurt yourself or someone else.
Click to expand...
 
Most smiths have done some hand reaming to increase head space,freebore,neck diamenter,
neck length and throating, but only in small ammounts .002 or .003 thousandths. but everything
else is done on a machine for accuracy and trueness.

I personally don't like pre chambered barrels because they limit the tolerances .

I understand wanting to do it your self but as CoyBoy said I think it is not the place to cut
corners(To many bad things can happen).Poor smithing is what lead me to doing my own
but i bought all the right tools before I started.

Other things like adding pillars, bedding or customizing stocks may only hurt accuracy. But
poor assembly and chambering of an action can /will kill you.

So I would not recommend doing it ether.

J E CUSTOM
 
Coyboy said:
Cet this crazy idea out of your head right now. You are going into a colasal waste of money. 1st your going to true the reciever threads and face with out truing the bolt, why even bother, the reamer and tap procedure is not as good as single point truing, I have proven that to myself. Why spend $300+ for tooling and only have the job done part way.

So now that you cut your threads oversize, your going to screw on a barrel that will have a thread fit that is .010+ undersize, How is that going to help your accuracy?

Your whole process is flawed now with a thicker lug you will definatly have to set the shoulder back in a lathe so the bolt nose counterbore actually comntains the bolt nose, headspace don't mean **** if you have .050-.100" of unsuported case waiting to blow out into your face.

Your asking for advice on somthing you don't have much knowledge on.
Save your money and and take your action and barrel to a smith and have it done right, before you hurt yourself or someone else.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input coyboy.but i think there may be a misunderstanding about my post so please let me clear this up,I dont have this rifle sitting on my work bench about to slam it together half @#% without any proper knowledge or with out some good reading and I had no intentions of chasing out or recutting the threads just true the face of the receiver and lap the bolt lug..Ive built savages 110 with great results and I know thats alot easier then the 700rem so I'll get all the proper info and help before I tackle this project..We have to ask and read and watch to learn before we do ..My question was more about the short chamber barrels having enough room in the short chamber to install the barrel fully and properly with a badger recoil lug to then finish the chamber by hand without having to cut the shoulder anymore after the intial cut, that being measured after receiver facings ,bolt lapping and new lug measured I'm not going to just throw the barrel forward leaving the differance of the factory lug and comp lug as exposed case and space between bolt and barrel..but i know if i mess up cutting chamber by hand then off comes the barrel back to the lath and recutting shouder again.., another concern i had was the kind of results people have got with hand cutting chambers like chattering etc....this post is to begining of alot of reading and asking before ever starting the project That would be no time in the near future..I would never do this without knowledge and research..everyone who has done this before started somewhere and learn from other people by asking questions and after learning I may very well decide to do the bedding ,lug lapping,truing the face and raceways,and muzzle crown myself and leave the barrel install to the lathman if i find it not worth the trouble ..that being said i am greatful for all input but I'm not a jackleg thinking that this is easy job that any idiot can do with a barrel vise and a set of headspace gauges,just a guy wanting to gain knowledge about a skill and these questions are the first step to that ..but like you said after learning i may decide to stay with the savages..
 
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Just adding that thicker recoil lug will move that pre threaded barrel out to a point where more cartridge base will be unsupported. If the lug is too thick, the base of the cartridge will blow out and destroy the rifle if not kill or maim you and whomever is next to you.

Lots of reading and maybe an NRA summer gunsmithing course would be advised.

60,000 pounds of pressure is nothing to fool with.

Be careful...............
 
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