Deepen short chamber by hand with t handle?

[Tac-O]

I have a new takeoff Tikka factory 6.5cm barrel I screwed on my action as a means of a cheaper practice/backup rifle.

Unfortunately, it headspaces a bit short by 0.003. With a box of Winchester power point ammo, about 50% chamber with a bit of rubbing and the rest have 1-2 thou clearance.

I'll mostly be handloading for this barrel, but wanted the option of using factory ammo.

I ordered starline SRP brass and Lee FL die set, but it hasn't come yet so I don't know if those will chamber or not and don't yet know if I'll have to grind down a shell holder or die on to be able to bump the shoulders back if I don't deepen the chamber.

Options are:

- have a smith deepen the chamber - not preferable because I'm guessing it would cost at least $150 minimum. That's more than I paid for the barrel and defeats the purpose of this being a cheap project.

- rent a reamer and t handle from 4D and deepen it myself. I'm not sure how easy it would be to do this without going too far. I've also seen some reports of negative experiences with 4D recently. Would cost at least $75-90 after shipping it back.

- lap my bolt lugs w JB or flitz to remove 0.003. this might take quite a bit of work and I don't know if it's my action or the barrel that's a little "off". Probably the worst idea.

- do nothing. Handload mostly and modify my shell holder or die if needed. Take calipers and headspace comparator with me to the store when considering factory ammo purchase.

Thoughts?

 

[Jud96]

You can deepen a chamber pretty easily .001-.002. Put the barrel in a barrel vise, coat the reamer in a cutting oil, slide the reamer into the chamber until it's up against the shoulder in the chamber, then put constant even forward pressure on the shoulder as you slowly rotate the reamer clockwise. Take it slow and try going like half a revolution, when you pull the reamer out, slowly turn it counter clockwise and back as you pull it out. Look if there's chips on the reamer. If there's chips, clean the clamber thoroughly with some brake clean and compressed air then a bore mop. Check the headspace. Repeat if necessary.

 

[can1010]

you can deepen it like mentioned above but you need some type of reamer stop to really get the quality job, without the stop will be hit or miss on the depth and how even the chamber will be. cheapest option is set up a set of dies and cases just for that rifle and be happy with a cheap fun gun.

 

[26Reload]

Are you positive about where you are hitting the chamber with the chambering brass.....could be hitting the neck/shoulder junction....maybe the neck itself is too long....
If you are trying to use same brass in a couple rifles it may not work....
But...New brass may fit this chamber better....
I have 3 65284s...same lapua brass...but all used exclusively for 'each rifle'.....same reamer...same gunsmith.......
the rifles all shoot with different powder weight's and different OAL.....all very close....all will chamber in each rifle...all will hit really close at 680yds...but not as accurate as the loads for each rifle...

Minute changes.....

 

[Tac-O]

You can deepen a chamber pretty easily .001-.002. Put the barrel in a barrel vise, coat the reamer in a cutting oil, slide the reamer into the chamber until it's up against the shoulder in the chamber, then put constant even forward pressure on the shoulder as you slowly rotate the reamer clockwise. Take it slow and try going like half a revolution, when you pull the reamer out, slowly turn it counter clockwise and back as you pull it out. Look if there's chips on the reamer. If there's chips, clean the clamber thoroughly with some brake clean and compressed air then a bore mop. Check the headspace. Repeat if necessary.

For checking depth of cut.... Is it possible to check by measuring distance of base of headspace gauge to the barrel breech prior to cut and then again after cutting?

Or is it just absolutely required to torque the barrel back on and check with the gauge and bolt?

Edit,: disregard. I was thinking about doing it with the barrel out of the action. The T handle is long enough to keep the action on.

you can deepen it like mentioned above but you need some type of reamer stop to really get the quality job, without the stop will be hit or miss on the depth and how even the chamber will be. cheapest option is set up a set of dies and cases just for that rifle and be happy with a cheap fun gun.

That's the easy button for sure. I have been wanting to get a 223 for super cheap factory ammo practice and may do that next year. If I do, then just handloading for this one is probably just fine

 

[FrogFire7]

Would be easy to take a few thousandths off the top of your shell holder. I did that once for a short chambered 6 BR.

 

[Tac-O]

Are you positive about where you are hitting the chamber with the chambering brass.....could be hitting the neck/shoulder junction....maybe the neck itself is too long....
If you are trying to use same brass in a couple rifles it may not work....
But...New brass may fit this chamber better....
I have 3 65284s...same lapua brass...but all used exclusively for 'each rifle'.....same reamer...same gunsmith.......
the rifles all shoot with different powder weight's and different OAL.....all very close....all will chamber in each rifle...all will hit really close at 680yds...but not as accurate as the loads for each rifle...

Minute changes.....

I don't have any virgin brass yet. Still waiting on it. I checked with a new box of loaded Winchester factory ammo.

Sharpied up the shoulder and can see rub marks on the shoulder.

I also get just the slightest amount of run with a Hornady headspace modified case.

 

[Tac-O]

My brass came today. I also measured some rounds in the store with my comparator.

I believe my chamber headspaces at 1.537. Most factory rounds I measured hovered between 1.535-1.538. My starline brass that arrived mostly measures at 1.537. My Lee dies also arrived. When setting the die up in the press to make firm contact and have the slightest cam over, it knocks the shoulder back to 1.536.

So, it's seems that I should be able to take just a thou off the shell holder and it should be just right for handloading. Or, I might not even need to if I screw the die down a tiny bit more.

Considering all the factory ammo I measured (and would likely consider using) would chamber, albeit some would rub, I'll probably just leave the barrel as is and mainly handload for it.

Besides, my other gun is likely out of commission for awhile, so I'll focus on shooting and loading for this one.

 

[can1010]

if you can shorten the sizing die instead of the shell holder it will give you just a little extra sizing at the base and web which can be a good thing. just tighten the nut on top of die and put in a drill press or cordless drill and run over a diamond sharpening stone. works great just keep track of your measurements as you go.

 

[Jud96]

For checking depth of cut.... Is it possible to check by measuring distance of base of headspace gauge to the barrel breech prior to cut and then again after cutting?

Or is it just absolutely required to torque the barrel back on and check with the gauge and bolt?

Edit,: disregard. I was thinking about doing it with the barrel out of the action. The T handle is long enough to keep the action on.



That's the easy button for sure. I have been wanting to get a 223 for super cheap factory ammo practice and may do that next year. If I do, then just handloading for this one is probably just fine

You can measure the distance the headspace gauge is protruding before reaming and while you ream. That however requires you have a depth micrometer and know how to use a depth mic correctly.

 

[Kmccord]

My brass came today. I also measured some rounds in the store with my comparator.

I believe my chamber headspaces at 1.537. Most factory rounds I measured hovered between 1.535-1.538. My starline brass that arrived mostly measures at 1.537. My Lee dies also arrived. When setting the die up in the press to make firm contact and have the slightest cam over, it knocks the shoulder back to 1.536.

So, it's seems that I should be able to take just a thou off the shell holder and it should be just right for handloading. Or, I might not even need to if I screw the die down a tiny bit more.

Considering all the factory ammo I measured (and would likely consider using) would chamber, albeit some would rub, I'll probably just leave the barrel as is and mainly handload for it.

Besides, my other gun is likely out of commission for awhile, so I'll focus on shooting and loading for this one.

Be careful when taking material off of the shell holder, I had same issue with a tight chamber. Instead of purchasing the Redding shell holders that had been modified at the factory, I did it myself, it worked great until I had a case that didn't have enough lube, the case head pulled out of the shell holder. I was at a stopping point until I ordered the stuck case removal tool.

 

[Tac-O]

I ended up taking 0.001 off the bottom of my die and it worked out very well. I got about 0.0015 to 0.002 shoulder bump. I expect that'll probably be a touch more after I fire them and then anneal them.

Loaded up 25 with 40gr h4350, cci450, and 140gr match burners I got on sale for 0.20/bullet. We'll see how it shoots! Hopefully it shoots acceptably as these rounds would cost 0.65 per if I can get at least 15 firings from the brass. I'd expect to with them being SRP cases and starline being pretty darn good.

 

[26Reload]

140 match burners are very accurate...easy to shoot...easy to tune...might make you think you are a better shot than you really are....
Have shot several thru my 65s.....way out there...
Way cheaper than using good hunting bullets...

 

[Kmccord]

I ended up taking 0.001 off the bottom of my die and it worked out very well. I got about 0.0015 to 0.002 shoulder bump. I expect that'll probably be a touch more after I fire them and then anneal them.

Loaded up 25 with 40gr h4350, cci450, and 140gr match burners I got on sale for 0.20/bullet. We'll see how it shoots! Hopefully it shoots acceptably as these rounds would cost 0.65 per if I can get at least 15 firings from the brass. I'd expect to with them being SRP cases and starline being pretty darn good.

That is what I ended up doing after the stuck case incident.