Cerakoting action and barrel

[Kmccord]

I wanted to see how others are Cerakoting actions and barrels, are you assembling them and then Cerakoting or Cerakote separately? I was looking at assembling then Cerakote, but my only concern is the barrel threads grease leaching out during curing time. I plan to go through the steps of cleaning and gas out, but how many times have you gone through this process before the leaching stops? This is going to be my first and wanted to find out how others are doing there Cerakote.

 

[JuddL]

My cerokote guy hates my copper based anti seize because it will never stop leaching out.

He wants me to put them together dry but that's not an option for me.

The last two I've taken to him I have used Permatex Ultra Slick engine assembly lube Red. It's sticky like the old STP the short range benchrest guys used to use. I dip or apply it to a qtip and run it around the chamber end of the thread and a thin coat on the shoulder.

He didn't complain about the first one and still has the second one.

So in short, I send them to him with the barreled action assembled…no trigger and bolt and bottom metal disassembled.

 

[Kmccord]

I was thinking of Cerakoting separate and assemble afterwards with the thread grease or hand tighten and Cerakote then reassemble with correct torq and grease. Just wanted to hear what others had found out that worked for them.

 

[JuddL]

I've been to scared I'll scratch them to assemble them afterwards

 

[bill123]

Assemble them dry, barely hand tight, very carefully.

 

[lyle2231]

I wanted to see how others are Cerakoting actions and barrels, are you assembling them and then Cerakoting or Cerakote separately? I was looking at assembling then Cerakote, but my only concern is the barrel threads grease leaching out during curing time. I plan to go through the steps of cleaning and gas out, but how many times have you gone through this process before the leaching stops? This is going to be my first and wanted to find out how others are doing there Cerakote.

I just watched Ultimate Reloader on YouTube where Gavin covered his cerakote finishing on the 50 BMG bolt gun. Real interesting.
HTH

 

[Kmccord]

I just watched Ultimate Reloader on YouTube where Gavin covered his cerakote finishing on the 50 BMG bolt gun. Real interesting.
HTH

I will have to watch it, I saw it come up on my playlist.

 

[Copper Basin]

I was thinking of Cerakoting separate and assemble afterwards with the thread grease or hand tighten and Cerakote then reassemble with correct torq and grease. Just wanted to hear what others had found out that worked for them.

I like to Cerakote them individually even if it is the same color. I make sure to wipe the anti seize of completely before using a full strength simple green degreaser bath. I let this site for an hour or more. Then dry and wipe the barrel tenon off one more time before blasting and sweating in the oven. I usually don't have to sweat out parts a second time. If it is an old action that has rust and tons of gunk in it then I wipe them down and soak in acetone for atleast an hour. This still may have oil seep out the scope base holes and the gas vent on the side. A second wipe down of acetone and reblast usually takes care of it. There is always the nasty ones though.

I took apart a rifle I put together last week after I test fired it and used the above method. Everything came out fine today. I use SA customs barrel vise with aluminum shims with construction paper as the buffer. Never had a barrel mar yet. My torque on the barreled action is at 80 ft lbs.

Not sure if this helps but it has been works works for me. Best wishes.

 

[Kmccord]

I like to Cerakote them individually even if it is the same color. I make sure to wipe the anti seize of completely before using a full strength simple green degreaser bath. I let this site for an hour or more. Then dry and wipe the barrel tenon off one more time before blasting and sweating in the oven. I usually don't have to sweat out parts a second time. If it is an old action that has rust and tons of gunk in it then I wipe them down and soak in acetone for atleast an hour. This still may have oil seep out the scope base holes and the gas vent on the side. A second wipe down of acetone and reblast usually takes care of it. There is always the nasty ones though.

I took apart a rifle I put together last week after I test fired it and used the above method. Everything came out fine today. I use SA customs barrel vise with aluminum shims with construction paper as the buffer. Never had a barrel mar yet. My torque on the barreled action is at 80 ft lbs.

Not sure if this helps but it has been works works for me. Best wishes.

Thank you for that information, what you described sounds exactly like I had thought of doing. These are new Custom actions and new barrels.

 

[Kmccord]

I also will have the SAC bravo with aluminum shims, if they will ever come back in stock...

 

[V35BTC]

It usually takes 3-5 times for me if the thing is assembled. I have one curing in the oven as we speak, it was four soaks and gas outs before it quit bleeding. It had just enough Lucas Red Grease brushed on the threads to see a light red haze, it doesn't take much, but I refuse to assemble dry. I did my sons 6GT a while back, and assembled it afterwards, he wanted to keep the DLC finish on the action. I put a wrap of drywall tape on the barrel and then put the wood blocks on and it didnt hurt the finish. If it ever spins in the vise, I think thats where the finish would be compromised.

 

[Kmccord]

It usually takes 3-5 times for me if the thing is assembled. I have one curing in the oven as we speak, it was four soaks and gas outs before it quit bleeding. It had just enough Lucas Red Grease brushed on the threads to see a light red haze, it doesn't take much, but I refuse to assemble dry. I did my sons 6GT a while back, and assembled it afterwards, he wanted to keep the DLC finish on the action. I put a wrap of drywall tape on the barrel and then put the wood blocks on and it didnt hurt the finish. If it ever spins in the vise, I think thats where the finish would be compromised.

Yes, that is what I have heard as well, as long as it doesn't spin in the block.

 

[Copper Basin]

Thank you for that information, what you described sounds exactly like I had thought of doing. These are new Custom actions and new barrels.

On new actions the soak time is less since there is not much oil on them. But a few actions do come with a lot of lubrication on them. The worst is Mack Bros actions. Great actions but a lot of oil on them. Defiance is very clean along with mesa, allterra and a few others. Stiller can be hit or miss. On new barrels that I have machined, spun the barrel and test fired they don't need much clean up at all. The one I painted today was just a wipe down with acetone and blast the surface. No weep and I was ready to paint. I did run dry patches down the barrel and wiped the threads clean.

 

[tobnpr]

Barreled action ALWAYS assembled. No reason to risk a slip in the barrel vise on a finished barrel. Cerakote is tough stuff- but it will show even a minor scuff sometimes from this process and I want to deliver a flawless finish to the customer.
All other parts (scope mounts, brakes) assembled after coating.

I use nickel anti-seize (you should never use copper on stainless steel), never had a problem with leaching, if you do- you're probably using too much. This stuff doesn't need to be slathered on- very light application is all that's needed to prevent galling.