Cartridge case body stuck in chamber

[Ga6570]

i see you reported you got it out already. good job.
yeah i have an extra hoppes bore snake in my kit that doesnt match any rifles i own just for this purpose. it might be labled 404 jeffery or 358 or something large. ive had a few of these get stuck in my time. - short pull to set the brush in the case and then reverse the end im pulling on and out it comes…

 

[epoletna]

I think you wrote some of your cases were .030 too long? Remember, belted cases get their headspace from the front of the belt, so everything between that and the case mouth can stretch. If yours were stretched .030, that has to come from someplace between the belt and the case mouth, which probably explains why you got case head separation. Your other old cases will probably do the same thing.

 

[judgebill]

Stick a 20 gauge brush into the case and twist it out......should come out easy...

Did this with .45 cal brush and out came the case. Thanks to all who responded.

 

[foul bore]

Thanks. Have seen suggestions for different tools. Will try the brush.

it works, I used that method with a cleaning patch soaked in carb cleaner over the brush twist and pull

 

[foul bore]

This can be caused by excessive shoulder bump try ro keep it to.002. check brass with paper clip to feel for grove or bump on those that are left

 

[arch408]

Examine your brass before you reload it. If it has a bright ring just above the belt, you may case separation when you fire it. You can confirm it by bending the end of a straightened paper clip or any other piece of wire, to form a small "L". insert it into the case and drag it along the case wall down by the head. You will feel it as it falls into the the trough caused by the case body being stretched forward it conform to the chamber when fired. This can be a problem especially with belted magnums, if you size your brass by making the press ram "cam" over at the base of the sizing die. You can make your brass last longer if you only size enough to make your cartridge chamber and close the bolt. This may not work with a lever or auto loader or brass fired in another rifle. For hunting loads, I only use relatively new brass so I won't have chambering or case separation problems in the field.

 

[timo308]

Examine your brass before you reload it. If it has a bright ring just above the belt, you may case separation when you fire it. You can confirm it by bending the end of a straightened paper clip or any other piece of wire, to form a small "L". insert it into the case and drag it along the case wall down by the head. You will feel it as it falls into the the trough caused by the case body being stretched forward it conform to the chamber when fired. This can be a problem especially with belted magnums, if you size your brass by making the press ram "cam" over at the base of the sizing die. You can make your brass last longer if you only size enough to make your cartridge chamber and close the bolt. This may not work with a lever or auto loader or brass fired in another rifle. For hunting loads, I only use relatively new brass so I won't have chambering or case separation problems in the field.

A couple of years ago I picked up a couple of the TesIong borescopes (one long borescope and one shorter borescope) off the Internet for inspecting rifle barrels and chambers, etc. The short one has proven to be the handiest of the 2 as it's easier to maneuver.. I was trying to check a blemish inside of a case one time and decided to use that short horoscope to check and see what was going on. It dawned on me that it would be a great tool for checking to see if I was getting ready to have a casehead separation issue. I've used it ever since as part of my case inspection protocol. If you're going to try using this method, I'd recommend you get some cases that you know are about to fail and check those to see what they look like as there is a line that starts to form in the case before they're actually ready to fail.