Browning Radial Brake Issues and Replacement

[Leaf Litter]

I bought a Browning Hell's Canyon LR in 6.8 Western last summer and it shot all 3 factory loads I fed it (165 ABLR, 175 TGK and 162 monos) very poorly, 2-4 MOA @ 100 yards.

This weekend I finally broke down and removed the factory radial muzzle brake and shot 3/4" groups with relative ease. How is it that a radial brake could be so wrong?

After shooting with only the thread protector I definitely noticed the additional recoil. I'm looking for a replacement brake (not suppressors) and preferably one i can install without a gunsmith. I'll probably hunt with just the thread protector, but days at the bench and NRL Hunter matches will see use of a brake to mitigate recoil.

What are my best options for a replacement brake? I've heard good things about a few different brands, just looking for some recommendations.

Cheers!

 

[sable tireur]

and preferably one i can install without a gunsmith

One of the things I've found when assessing problems such as yours is that the thread tenon is not concentric with the bore or that the threads in the brake are not concentric to the bore. This is responsible for the awful accuracy most shooters find with their rifles and brakes.

However, if you don't have your own equipment and the expertise to fix the problem, you're left with finding a gunsmith.

 

[HSmithTX]

I can agree that there may be a problem with the threading that is causing the accuracy issues, the only way a guy can figure it out without knowing exactly how to tell what is wrong is to put another brake with known good function on to test it. I have an unfired Browning radial brake at the house somewhere, you are welcome to see if the issues persist using it for postage both ways.

If you want to buy a brake I can recommend the APA Little Bastard for a not huge brake that is excellent in function, I have one I have used on a 28N and 300WM and it is really effective. Blast and concussion for are significantly higher than some other brakes if that is a concern, if so the BEST brake I have ever shot for recoil reduction with a relative lack of concussion and blast for the shooter is the Piercision Muscle Brake. It is very reasonable in effectiveness without the typical pressure and noise increase for the shooter If you don't mind the concussion as the shooter the APA line is really nice. If you are going to suppress eventually the Dead Air brake/suppressor QD unit is excellent at reducing recoil and blast isn't bad.

 

[RockyMtnUT]

I bought a Browning Hell's Canyon LR in 6.8 Western last summer and it shot all 3 factory loads I fed it (165 ABLR, 175 TGK and 162 monos) very poorly, 2-4 MOA @ 100 yards.

This weekend I finally broke down and removed the factory radial muzzle brake and shot 3/4" groups with relative ease. How is it that a radial brake could be so wrong?

After shooting with only the thread protector I definitely noticed the additional recoil. I'm looking for a replacement brake (not suppressors) and preferably one i can install without a gunsmith. I'll probably hunt with just the thread protector, but days at the bench and NRL Hunter matches will see use of a brake to mitigate recoil.

What are my best options for a replacement brake? I've heard good things about a few different brands, just looking for some recommendations.

Cheers!

Those radial brakes are pretty basic and have usually plenty of clearance. You need to find out if it contacting the brake? If it's not then you might have another issue. Browning has a https://www.browning.com/products/shooting-accessories/muzzle-brakes/recoil-hawg-muzzle-brake.html that is pretty good and not bad priced. But like said above you really need to see if its contacting.

 

[VALKYRIETP]

The bullet is striking the bore of your MB
T.P.

 

[Laelkhunter]

Check the bullet clearance (bore diameter) of the brake by taking a bullet and dropping it into the brake. If it gets caught halfway through, that's your problem. Sometimes they will shoot good at first, then after a few shots, the powder burning can cut the metal of the brake causing a slight protrusion of metal into the path of the bullet. It's easy to fix, just get a chain saw file (small round diameter), and run it through the brake until the bullet drops freely through it. Only takes a stroke or two to remove the burr inside the brake. I had this minor problem with my radial brake, and after a few light strokes of the file, shoots good as it did originally.

 

[Varmint Hunter]

I've got a Browning HC McMillan in 6.5 Creed. That silly Browning brake is a joke. Mine was bored large enough for a 340 WBY. I sent the brake, which was no more than a straight hollow pipe with holes drilled in it, to a brake manufacturer who said he didn't see how it could reduce recoil at all.

 

[sedancowboy]

If you mark Top Dead Center of your radial brake and send it off to MBM they will time a new brake for you. I highly recommend MBM. Nathan makes a good brake.

 

[Citified]

Ditto for Nathan at Muzzle Brakes and More.
I bought an APA brake for my 300 Rum thinking it was standard threads. It turned out my gunsmith had threaded it like the Browning in metric and Nathan made a very effective self timing brake tapered to the barrel diameter. I saved the APA brake for my 300 Weatherby. Nathan will get back to you by email but is very easy to work with. Big recoil reduction with his brakes.

 

[island2019]

browning makes the recoil hang. It is very effective for the 6.8 and self timing installation. Have one on mine, very new to able difference in felt recoil. Can find online for less than $100

 

[island2019]

Recoil Hawg!! Auto corrected

 

[Buttermilk]

Browning Recoil Hawg will do what your looking to do. Self timing and easily installed. 5/8x24 threads.

 

[David_h]

My X-bolt Long Range Pro, 6.8 Western came with the Recoil Hawg. I took it off when I received the rifle and a couple hundred rounds later, I'm tempted to try shooting with it installed as I've never tried it. Rifle just dropped two Montana Pronghorn with 156 gr Hammer Hunter bullets. Mine was bedded at 340 yards from prone. Buddy shot his while quartering away at 300 yards kneeling from shooting stick. On our off-day, my other buddy shot three prairie dogs with one shot using the rifle at 200 yards. The rifle has 26" barrel and recoil without muzzle brake is not a problem however muzzle jump makes acquiring target for possible second shot take a moment. Have 2.2 lb trigger spring kit from MCarbo- excellent trigger.

 

[Buttermilk]

Browning claims 73% reduction in recoil when the gun is chambered in 300 RUM (it'll be a bit less with cases that generate less gas volume) on their Recoil Hawg brake.