25WSM
Well-Known Member
Mram that's one of those special 2 piece brass.
Shep
Shep
Brass undersized by .020” :(
- Thread starter Mram10us
- Start date
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North Idaho Hunter
Well-Known Member
I Ran into this this just this past week with an ackley chamber. It had .028 thou difference.
Jam em' .015 thou and let er' rip! I had fun torching rounds and had good accuracy messing around with the FF loads to boot.
Jam em' .015 thou and let er' rip! I had fun torching rounds and had good accuracy messing around with the FF loads to boot.
Plenty of factory ammo is way undersized for reliability.
I also have barrels chambered where the fired brass is shorter than resized brass with factory dies.
there's no safety issue shooting it with a mild load but if you don't want to waste bullets do the cream of wheat fireforming drill.
I also have barrels chambered where the fired brass is shorter than resized brass with factory dies.
there's no safety issue shooting it with a mild load but if you don't want to waste bullets do the cream of wheat fireforming drill.
Longrange338allen
Member
Remove the brake, prime normal, load "unique powder (15 / 20 gr,) work up charge to obtain full movement, put grits above powder to shoulder / neck juncture, top w paper split wad. No damage, no waste, no wear unless you leave brake on which will need to be replaced if not removed. Good luck
johnish
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 27, 2011
- Messages
- 49
I agree, some lists are best kept secret
tony d willIiams
Well-Known Member
Good suggestions posted, I don't have the experience to contribute here.
Off subject a bit;
A comparator? I would almost give up an arm for one. They make life so much easier, I used to use the one in the machine shop before I retired. Quick and accurate measurements in a fraction of the time. Does yours tie in to your computer to save your data?
Off subject a bit;
A comparator? I would almost give up an arm for one. They make life so much easier, I used to use the one in the machine shop before I retired. Quick and accurate measurements in a fraction of the time. Does yours tie in to your computer to save your data?
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2015
- Messages
- 1,534
Jam and shoot a mild load. Move the shoulder ALOT fire forming ai brass. If longevity is a concern aneal before and after.
nicholasjohn
Well-Known Member
I wouldn't be ashamed of myself for trying something that was suggested by the manufacturer of the equipment I was using. I'd be ashamed if I wasn't smart enough to ask them first. That said, often their suggestions don't work as desired, and somebody here has the trick that makes all the difference. I says kudos to you for trying different things and seeing what works FOR YOU, with your equipment.
As far as the cam-over concept is concerned, I've never even tried that. I think I understand why some manufacturers recommend it, and how there is some spring in the press. I do everything in a Co-Ax press, and don't cam over. I have to wonder if I'm missing something here. Any comments ?
Fire forming is the only way to make a proper fit for the brass in your chamber and using the third method is the best way to save barrel life. The amount of reloads the brass will handle is dependent upon many variables. The thickness, hardness, annealing, powder charge and bullet used are just a few so that question can only be answered by how well it will perform with what you are loading into it. You just can't tell how many cycles you can shoot a piece of unknown brass until you shoot it. Good luck in completing your mission.
waspocrew
Well-Known Member
If the COW method is annoying, I've seen videos where you can use a cotton ball to take up the space (instead of COW). I'd remove your brake as well so as to not damage from debris flying out of the barrel.
nicholasjohn
Well-Known Member
I have always used the cheapest bullets I had laying around, or something that just didn't shoot very well. Free is even better than cheap. Others have recommended lubing the cases, and/or jamming them bullets into the lands. I haven't done either, favoring the false shoulder method. This has worked well for me, as it squashes the case head hard against the bolt face every time. Recently, though, I saw a write-up on this forum about how much the firing pin impact can push a case into the shoulder of the chamber, actually compressing it somewhat. I never would have thought of that, but somebody actually researched this and measured and posted his results. Next time I do any fire-forming for my 30-06 AI, I plan to lube the cases lightly to remove all possibility of the case walls stretching at all just ahead of the web. Any stretch that occurs up near the shoulder won't present any problems that I'm aware of, as the separations occur way down near the case head. I've also read that for fire-forming, it's best to use a relatively fast burning powder and a heavy-for-caliber bullet. I don't know if that makes any difference or not.
I've done this and used bar soap as a cap with great results
