Brass Prep for long range accuracy

Steve Sheasly

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Dec 15, 2017
Messages
184
I have been reloading for some time and have been shooting 1000 yard targets on my own ranch range. Not fancy by any means, but very effective. I am tired of seeing big bulls walk away at 900 yards not to be seen again.
I have been shooting every day for some time and have gotten my 1000 yards groups with my .338 LM to about.5 MOA or 5 inches.
Some of the things I have learned about brass prep I want to pass on.
1. Neck size after 5 shots FL size then neck size.
2. chamfer and flash hole clean all brass
3. Use Nosler or Norma they are the same brass, or my favorite is Lapua you will not have to trim for several reloads.
4. soak in acetone or alcohol before going into the tumbler/vibrator/ultrasound wipe off
5. remove cleaned brass from cleaner and take a brass brush and clean the inside of the necks. Anneal necks after 5 reloads.
6. Blow each piece of brass out with an air compressor first the inside then primer pocket look inside and make sure primer pocket is clear of obstruction.
7. I use micrometers for seating bullets use ogive to lands measurements only do not use COAL is it useless especially with plastic-tipped bullets.

Shoot a lot.

Steve
 
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I have been reloading for some time and have been shooting 1000 yard targets on my own ranch range. Not fancy by any means, but very effective. I am tired of seeing big bulls walk away at 900 yards not to be seen again.
I have been shooting every day for some time and have gotten my 1000 yards groups with my .338 LM to about.5 MOA or 5 inches.
Some of the things I have learned about brass prep I want to pass on.
1. Neck size only
2. chamfer and flash hole clean all brass
3. Use Nosler or Norma they are the same brass, or my favorite is Lapua you will not have to trim for several reloads.
4. soak in acetone or alcohol before going into the tumbler/vibrator/ultrasound wipe off
5. remove cleaned brass from cleaner and take a brass brush and clean the inside of the necks.
6. Blow each piece of brass out with an air compressor first the inside then primer pocket look inside and make sure primer pocket is clear of obstruction.
7. I use micrometers for seating bullets use ogive to lands measurements only do not use COAL is it useless especially with plastic-tipped bullets.

Shoot a lot.

Steve
Thanks. Great information
I pretty much do the same thing. I have played around here lately with neck sizing only and also just bumping things back on the case to get the brass to load real easy. Usual .002 off the case body and shoulder.
I've only shot up to 700 yards but have not seen enough of a difference to sway me one way or the other.
I do neck turn all my stuff and anneal. Seems to help a lot for me any way.

Anyway good post. Thanks

Ever try vinegar on soakin brass over night. Comes out pretty clean.
 
I to usually neck size. So I have a question do any of you use the Forester neck bump die system? I ask because it looks like a good idea.
 
I respectfully disagree with:
1. I FL size everything, bump.shoulders back .0015 to .002"
2. A lot of the better brass do not "punch" their flash holes, they machine them, so no need for this.
3. Many other fantastic brass manufacturers out there depending on your cartridge of choice. ADG, Alpha, Petersons, Lapua, RWS
5. I would personally not use a brass brush for case necks. Nylon would be my choice.

Not sure why you do #4.

Absolutely agree with #6, 7, and "shoot a lot".
 
I respectfully disagree with:
1. I FL size everything, bump.shoulders back .0015 to .002"
2. A lot of the better brass do not "punch" their flash holes, they machine them, so no need for this.
3. Many other fantastic brass manufacturers out there depending on your cartridge of choice. ADG, Alpha, Petersons, Lapua, RWS
5. I would personally not use a brass brush for case necks. Nylon would be my choice.

Not sure why you do #4.

Absolutely agree with #6, 7, and "shoot a lot".
What he said!
 
Thanks. Great information
I pretty much do the same thing. I have played around here lately with neck sizing only and also just bumping things back on the case to get the brass to load real easy. Usual .002 off the case body and shoulder.
I've only shot up to 700 yards but have not seen enough of a difference to sway me one way or the other.
I do neck turn all my stuff and anneal. Seems to help a lot for me any way.

Anyway good post. Thanks

Ever try vinegar on soakin brass over night. Comes out pretty clean.
No acetone or alcohol for 15 min cuts most,if,the junk. Vinegar is acidic 5% and would leave a residue inside the case that would have to burn out ivwould think.
 
I to usually neck size. So I have a question do any of you use the Forester neck bump die system? I ask because it looks like a good idea.
I have one for 300 win mag. Redding tech support recommends against it. That is why they do not make one. I think I talked to a guy named lou. They did not see any benefit. I have not used mine and probably won't. Fireformed brass works very well fir me.
 
I respectfully disagree with:
1. I FL size everything, bump.shoulders back .0015 to .002"
2. A lot of the better brass do not "punch" their flash holes, they machine them, so no need for this.
3. Many other fantastic brass manufacturers out there depending on your cartridge of choice. ADG, Alpha, Petersons, Lapua, RWS
5. I would personally not use a brass brush for case necks. Nylon would be my choice.

Not sure why you do #4.

Absolutely agree with #6, 7, and "shoot a lot".
Do what works. My last,group at 1k was 2inside inches. Cleans the carbon ofd,of the neck so tumbling time,is reduced. Also cleans powder,residue. Nylon does not remove the residue from the neck well I have nylon. One time,in and out. Out,of 20 cases I will remove 3 or 4 grains of uncombustable junk. I weiged it once.
 
I respectfully disagree with:
1. I FL size everything, bump.shoulders back .0015 to .002"
2. A lot of the better brass do not "punch" their flash holes, they machine them, so no need for this.
3. Many other fantastic brass manufacturers out there depending on your cartridge of choice. ADG, Alpha, Petersons, Lapua, RWS
5. I would personally not use a brass brush for case necks. Nylon would be my choice.

Not sure why you do #4.

Absolutely agree with #6, 7, and "shoot a lot".
Full length sizing is hard on brass and does not allow for a snug fit in the chamber. With virgin brass I am 2moa or 20 inches off at 1 thousand yards
 
Ha im on the complete opposite end of you. I take my brass out of the bag, full length size, and shoot them till they cant hold a primer. I do anneal every other firing. I wipe them with a cloth before lubing and wipe them off after sizing.

Different strokes i guess.
 
Ha im on the complete opposite end of you. I take my brass out of the bag, full length size, and shoot them till they cant hold a primer. I do anneal every other firing. I wipe them with a cloth before lubing and wipe them off after sizing.

Different strokes i guess.
Cool.
 
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