better acuracy?

davewilson

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i'm building a 7rum on a rem SS LA.mostly used for long range hunting/bench shooting.would it improve the accuracy potential if i glued or heli-arced a bottom plate to add rigidity to the action? what would the best method be to "get-r-done"? i'm not bothered that it would be a single shot.
 
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i'm building a 7rum on a rem SS LA.mostly used for long range hunting/bench shooting.would it improve the accuracy potential if i glued or heli-arced a bottom plate to add rigidity to the action? what would the best method be to "get-r-done"? i'm not bothered that it would be a single shot.

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Dave -- the best way to git 'er done IMO is to shoot something beside the 7RUM /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

A bud just won a speedy gonzales sleeve for a rem action at the 1K Nats that he would probably sell if interested. if you want to stiffen it, i would sleeve it before welding anything fast ot it...

JB
 
JB,i thought a sleeve helped hold the bolt in the same place every time and wasn't really a stiffening addition.what does a sleeve do,basically what is it? you'll have to bare with me i'm only a huntin kinda guy.
 
ah yes, i've seen these,didn't know what they were called. i just want to put something in the magazine opening to stiffen up the action.i have a choate varmint stock with a bedding block.outside sleeve is not what i had in mind. any ideas, anyone?
 
Dave,

Go to www.brownells.com and search under part number 100-000-618.

This is the Weldsmith bottom insert for the Rem 700 LA. THis is the bests insert I have every used. It is a very quality fit to the mag port and is perfectly profiled to match the outside contour of the Rem 700 receiver.

Take your receiver, degrease it completely in the mag well area. Then take a high quality epoxy, I generally use a high strength Clear 5 minute epoxy for this. After degreasing the receiver, mag well do the same for the insert. Be sure not to get it oily once you have cleaned it.

Mix up some epoxy, and apply it to the receiver around the mag well machining. No need to over do it, just make sure that along both sides there is a coating of epoxy.

THen carefully drop the insert into the mag well and hold it down against the receiver so it sits flush. With some Q-tips clean out any excess epoxy that oozes around the insert.

Then quickly and while still keeping pressure on the insert holding it solidly into the receiver, turn the receiver over and clean out the excess epoxy inside the receiver as well as this will prevent the bolt from passing if not cleaned up.

This is why use only what you need to get the job done or the clean up will be dramatically more work then it needs to be.

Turn back over and either apply a few wraps of wide masking take or put some weight on the insert to keep it solidly against the receiver. Will set up in 10-15 minutes, ready to shoot the next day.

The reason I use the 5 minute epoxy is so that it sets up and does not run all over hell in the receiver. The longer set up time epoxies are generally stronger but I have NEVER had a problem using the 5 minute epoxy as this is a very non stressed area. Just be sure to degrease everything well before starting. Like everything else, cleanliness is next to godliness!!

Here is a pic of what the finished result looks like. This can DRAMATICALLY increase your bedding surface if you fill in the mag box on your stock as well. Also greatly stiffens up your stock so you should get better consistancy all around.

322593.jpg


Good Shooting!!

Kirby Allen(50)
 
50D,
thank you so much. i just knew there had to be a part like this somewhere.i'm gathering that you think it would benificial to fill up the mag hole with something and bed the action against it for added stiffness?
 
Dave,

IF this rifle will be converted to single shot and left that way, I would highly recommend filling the mag box. Being a BDL this is a bit trickier but not much. Generally how I do it is to bed the rifle in two parts.

First is the standard bedding job. THen I clean up the bedding compound of that job and then reinsert the barreled receiver in the stock.

Depending on what kind of stock you are using will determine if the stock should be pillar bedded or skim bedded only.

ONce this is finished I remove the floorplate of the rifle but then reattach the receiver screws to the receiver to hold the barreled receiver solidly into its bedding.

First thing to do is make a filler block to take up most of the volume up in the mag well. IF you fill this solid with bedding compound it will take ALOT of compound to get her filled up.

I generally use some hardwood scrape. Oak works great. I generally do not like to use the softer woods but in all honestly they will work well also. This is just a filler to take up the majority of volume in the mag well.

I then fit the filler block using a belt sander so that it easily fits in the mag well with a bit of clearance(1/16" or so) to the sides of the stock.

With this block made and sized and ready to go I move on to the actual bedding of the mag well.

Very important. Pull the barreled receiver out of the bedding. THe single shot insert should be installed before any bedding is performed as well. Apply another coat of release agent on the single shot insert area and anywhere else the bedding compound may contact. Put back in the stock and secure with the action screws. IF you can do this with the floorplate off it is best.

The rifle is inverted in a rifle cradle and then I will mix up some marine tex compound and put a 3/8" layer against the bottom of the receiver through the mag well opening. Work it in good to get all the air pockets out from between the receiver/insert and the bedding compound.

Then take your filler block and insert it into the mag well. Push the insert down until the bedding compound begins to push up around the block but do not make contact with the receiver. We want the block to float in the middle of the bedding compound.

After this you can go one of two ways,

One. You can let things set up like this so that you do not have to worry about the filler block moving any as you fill in around the block with bedding compound.

or

Two, you can carefully fill around the block with bedding compound making sure the filler block does not work its way through the compound and can be seen when all if set up in the bedding when the stock is pulled off the rifle.


TO finish up, once bedding compound is filled in all around the block apply a coat on top of the block to cover it up.

I have a mill at my disposal so I generally fill the mag well totally up and then when it cures I will mill the bedding compound out for a clean professional looking finished produce.

If you do not have a mill. It may be easier to just top the block off with enough to cover the block but still allow the floorplate to be installed properly. Just smooth off the compound as even as possible for a good looking finished product.

Some will fill the mag well up totally with bedding compound, spray the floorplate with release agent and bolt her down. I have found this to cause several problems so I prefer not to do it that way.

Yes, I feel this adds alot to the rigidity of the rifles system. The bedding surface area is easily increased by 5 times compared to an open mag box. PLus you get the advantage of eliminating the stock mag wall flexing under recoil.

Good Shooting!!

Kirby Allen(50)
 
50D,
thanks for the details,i think i mentioned it above i'm using a choate ultimate varmint stock, adl version.you said in another post to try the gun just screwed against the bedding block.i'll just do the second part of your bedding recommendation(fill in the hole and bed against it)and see how it goes.
 
Dave,

Try the stock as is first and it will probably shoot very well. These stocks are hell for stiff in the mag box area. YOu will probably have no need to bed anything.

If youdo want to fill the mag box this is much easier in the ADL. Fill her up and bolt the receiver down!!

Let us know how she runs for you.

Kirby Allen(50)
 
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