Best 7MM bullet and/or factory loaded ammo for a Black Bear under 100 yards?

I believe gunwerks has a video somewhere of a couple bears getting killed at extended distances with a 6xc.
Yes and it was BOTW who frequently did vieoes of people taking ridiculously long shots on big came with severely underpowered rounds like the .243.

Our ancestors killed the largest game in the world with pointed sticks but we're fortunate to live in a world today where we can find the ideal tool for about any job.

I've got a fair bit of experience hunting dangerous game and I'm not going to recommend to anyone they go under powered or with bullets not designed for deep penetration and controlled expansion when hunting things that can get up and kill and/or eat you if you make a poor shot.

Always better to increase our odds of success to ensure quick, clean kills on the game we seek and to ensure we're able to brag about it later without showing off the stitches and casts.
 
Truth be told black bear are not armor plated. But, for those hunting them in dense cover such as over bait in a muskeg swamp, a "stopping load" that makes two holes is a solid choice. A-Frames, Partitions or a bonded, heavy for caliber bullet isn't a bad choice. High speed and laser trajectory need not apply. I run a mid-range (~2321 fps, SD 9.6) .350 Remington Magnum loaded with 250 gr partitions. So, were I offering advice, always highly dangerous amongst shooters, I'd add 2mm of diameter to that 7mm's bore and slow it down some. Your 7RM with a 160 bullet will do just dandy as long as you do your part. Enjoy the hunt and your preparations leading to it.
 
You just need the 160gr partition or the 150 Barnes, both of those will give you a massive energy dump and straight line penetration. You won't need to be concerned about shot angle with either bullet, just draw a straight line to the heart.
 
We have an abundance of big bears and a trapping (foot snaring) season with no limit. We dispatch more bears than most hunters will ever see, and eventually you start wondering "what happens if I shoot it there; and with this?" It's even a good test of whether a frangible long range bullet is too soft for a close shot if you were concerned about that.

For what its worth; 7mm Bergers most notably the 180 VLT and 195 EOL absolutely flatten bears and still leave a neat carcass to skin. ABLRs kill fast but are a little messier from a skinning point of view.

For more normal hunting bullets; Ballistic Tips and Accubonds make a great showing. Practically any cheap factory ammo will kill faster than the stiffer of the premium bullets, though it might be horrifing to some to admit the factories sort of know what they are doing for most of the people, most of the time.

By the time you get to the mono's things have dropped off, unless you want your bear to die somewhere else. That might seem like a specialty use; but there are a pile of bears shot by people who don't want a live bear and don't want the PITA of a dead bear either. ;) Farmer's, ranchers, and bee-keepers come to mind.

I have no Idea why anyone would use a 12 gauge slug on purpose.
 
A bear is not armor plated. But you have to pick, What do I want to do to the bear? Do I want to break both shoulders and stand him on his nose, You want a well constructed bullet that will break bone and exit the other side. Or do you want to shoot him in the magic pop can chest shot? You want a bullet that will do a lot of destruction and make a 2nd hole in the hide. Fat fall bear needs a big exit hole so fat won't plug it.
I tracked a bear over a mile in Maine shot twice in the shoulder with a 45-70 with 300 Gr. Win. factory loads, At 30 yds. I field dressed the bear and cut into the chest both lungs and heart was perfect. There was 2 small blood shot strips on the inter ribs. The bears shoulder was busted but no penetration through chest to opposite shoulder to stand it on its nose.
I have killed several bears, Hunted bear in Canada and Maine. As a wild life officer I worked bear country for 15 years, Road crippled Bear, live stock, orchard damage, bee damage Bears. My go to rifles was 270 Win. 150 Nosler part. or 308 Win. 150 Gr. Nosler part. Killed a couple with Win. 150 gr. HP 357 Mag. out of 4 in. barrel revolver. All DRT. but 1 it run about 30 ft.
 
Those Bondstrikes shoot amazing. Factory colt light rifle with a 24" barrel shot .75" at 100. Bear hunt less then 4 weeks. However I just got a 450 bushmaster back from the gunsmith, now i'm debating if i should take that instead...lol
 
I've taken many black bears with a 45-70 because I think it's just about perfect. However, my outfitter has a guy who hunts bear with him every year with a 22-250. I told him, "that's ridiculous"; but he said the guy is successful every year.

Moral to the story:
Use whatever you've got - anything out of a 7 mag is MORE than enough for a blackie.

More important is what optic you've got on that rifle. Black bears appear out of nowhere, stand in the shadows and could be hard to locate in a 4x scope when they're 15yds away.
So, what scope do you recommend??
 
Shot my biggest bear with a .260 using a 129 interbank Hornady. Have used 44 and 41 handguns. Most that I have gotten were archery harvests. I think the most important thing on fat fall bears is 2 holes to let cold air in and blood out. Their rib cage is easier to penitrate than a whitetail. Good luck, whatever your choice.
 
So, what scope do you recommend??

I use a 1.5x5 Leupold with an illuminated reticle. I highly recommend using an illuminated reticle when you are trying to put the reticle on a black bear, under the dense canopy of the forest, especially in low light. Most of the bears that I've taken were taken in those conditions.

Having 5x on the top end is helpful when you are developing loads. Having 1.5x on the bottom is needed for close quarter shooting. Most of my bears were taken over bait at under 50 yds. Bait pails are often set at about 20yds to accommodate bowhunters.

1895SBL - Leupold VX-R.jpg
 
Top