Berger bullets showing pressure

I did the break-in on my new bergara B 14 wilderness Ridge today. I was shooting 130 grain burger 6.5 mm, and a nosler factory seconds for us. I did powder amounts between 49 to 55. I noticed that some of the braas was showing signs of pressure. I'm not even close to what the max was recommended by Berger. Let anyone run into this in the past and have any recommendations I am still new to reloading.
Which cases, what powder, Primers? A couple of pictures would help too. When doing a run up on powder, you should be increasing by about 0.25 increase per load with that size of case. Single round increase for each powder loads. That's only to see what it will handle in powder charge . Generally I don't do a velocity check at that time. Barrel is new, and needs to be broke in. Velocity after brake in increases. Now you need to watch for pressure signs as you are shooting each load. The reloading manual is only a guide line. I only found one time that the loading data was away off in 60 yrs. I started off on there max load. Out came the primer and very hard bolt opening. I got to looking at what their power loads is, and other powder loads for other bullets. The were 5 to 7 grains more powder, and about 8 grs more in bullet weight in about 40gr case. Never repeated that again (I did find my sign "STUPID").
 
So a few possible things could be happening here. If loading to a shorter COAL than whatever manual/ load data will most likely increase pressures. Loading for a new barrel could also increase pressures. Barrels usually gain speed after breaking in, could take two hundred or more rounds, could take less. With a new rifle I don't try to get the best velocity right off the bat. Load for accuracy and break it in first, while staying below pressure signs. Then after it breaks in then bump up the loads while watching pressure.
 
When I first started reloading I had Lee dies, I followed their instructions on FL die, I recently shot some I still had around and was getting a heavy, stuck bolt when ejecting the round, I checked the shoulder and found that they were bumped backed .006 or more beyond what should have been it's max bump, didn't have shoulder gauge when these were loaded nor was I concerned about it at the time but using Lee instructions I unknowingly was bumping the shoulders to far back. I have loaded the same charge with same bullet and now keep shoulder where I want it and have not had any pressure signs, may not be your issue but something to consider.
 
Also, is it virgin brass? Brass can give some slight pressure indicators on the first firing as the brass stretches and slams into the bolt face
Partly. You should have your bullet against the lands. To make sure you get the proper fire form. You want the base tight to the bolt face to push the shoulder forward, and not at the base to create case stretch at the base. Reduce loads and while getting your brake in and fire forming done.
 
That is a little odd though, Burger's book is usually a bit conservative compared to other books.
Sometimes different chambers will show slight pressure signs no matter what
I have a Kimber 6.5 Creed that flattens the primers all the time even with factory amo.
 
Partly. You should have your bullet against the lands. To make sure you get the proper fire form. You want the base tight to the bolt face to push the shoulder forward, and not at the base to create case stretch at the base. Reduce loads and while getting your brake in and fire forming done.
I'm sorry I have to disagree with that. It's a stock rifle as far as we know so there really isn't a need to have the bullet contacting the lands. If it was a wildcat cartridge maybe. Otherwise I'd lead a new loader away from jamming the bullets.
 
I measured the size of the magazine and built the bullet off that.

They recommend 20th off the lands but then the bullets didn't fit the magazine well so then I could only load a single round at time
that is just a starting point go back more Hybirds will work at many different settings
 
I'm sorry I have to disagree with that. It's a stock rifle as far as we know so there really isn't a need to have the bullet contacting the lands. If it was a wildcat cartridge maybe. Otherwise I'd lead a new loader away from jamming the bullets.
Back the other way. If you don't get your base to the bolt face, you produce a lot of case stretch, because you are allowing the stretch at the base and not at the shoulder where is should be. Think about it. If your case isn't tight to the face of the bolt, and fitted in loosely. What going to happen. You are going to have case stretch at both ends, and the shoulder is where you want it, not at the base. Why do you think the match shooter are only bumping there shoulder back a .002 or so. Your metal in the brass growths forward, and not back. They are trying to reduce the stretch as much as possible. That why they are reloading with only a small set back at the shoulder.
Now I use to FL size my 308NM and would loose the case do to case stretch in about 3 firing at the base. Change to a neck sizing die that was a 300WM. The necks are shorter. I stumble on to this by accident. I didn't change the shoulder length at all. My case went 10-12 firing before loosing the primer pockets.
 
I'm sorry I have to disagree with that. It's a stock rifle as far as we know so there really isn't a need to have the bullet contacting the lands. If it was a wildcat cartridge maybe. Otherwise I'd lead a new loader away from jamming the bullets.
Correct it it's completely factory rifle.
 
That is a little odd though, Burger's book is usually a bit conservative compared to other books.
Sometimes different chambers will show slight pressure signs no matter what
I have a Kimber 6.5 Creed that flattens the primers all the time even with factory amo.
That's what I thought.
 
I am more interested in what: Brass, Primers, and Powders being used. We know what bullets he is using. Some case have smaller volume than others. So smaller mean possibly more pressure at the start. That with any chamber, no matter what.
 
Top