Bedding using only action,barrel weight

My method has been using long studs wrapped with tape to center them in the pillars/bedding block. The action is held by hand tight torque on the nut/washer combination screwed on the studs for the "cure" time. Removal after curing by "double nutting" them.
Also wrapping the barrel with tape near the front of the stock to center it as Dosh mentioned. Tape being no thicker than the clearance in the un-bedded state.
I do not bed the tang as well.
 
There will always be "keyboard commandos".....need to be seen as bigger than life, but more that are willing to give intelligent info, advice, and experience. At least now, most of the info people on the forums learned the knowledge first hand. I still learn new stuff every day, and GREATLY appreciate any help or tips. I can only blame myself for following the advice of a fool, and for not recognizing the source as a fool. Thank any and all of you for your time and effort to reply to my questions...rsbhunter
 
I'm in that boat when it comes to ar builds. Totally ignorant to it. Not saying you are, just meaning I'll be needing lots of GOOD advice
 
On ar15 builds I might be of some help...built 4-5 223's and a AR10 in 6.5 creed that shoots incredibly....a lot of the results are directly tied to the money spent on certain parts...but that is another rabbit hole to get lost in....it's a lot of fun, be careful, follow directions, and be safe...rsbhunter
 
Good advice , all of it. I know not to bed the tang, but the reminder was good. I would only bed to in front(1/8") of the rear action screw. Yes, I was asking about skim bedding vs no bed on action, and only bed recoil lug...sorry, I should have clarified that in the op....rsbhunter

I have taught a lot of people to bed guns over the years. There are a lot of ways to bed a rifle, and most of them work well.

Actions warp during heat treat, some more than others. For this reason, bedding the action is ALWAYS a good thing to do. I bed every action prior to pulling the trigger. The Al bedding block in some custom stocks are the best.

In the mistakes I have seen guys make over the years come in two mistakes. One, they do not degrease their action or screws with brake cleaner or starting fluid(better). Best to degrease twice. This will allow the release agent to get down in the pores of the metal. Second, a new guy that is unfamiliar with release agents will not completely apply the release agent to all nooks. Since bedding material will ooze up into the threads of the barrel tenon, into the chamber, tiny gas exhaust ports in the action, etc, best to have release agent in all of those areas also.

All problems I have seen with new guys bedding their own guns has come from incomplete coating of the action, and this is much easier to have happen with a paste wax. A spray on wax is much easier to deal with, especially in the removal by just washing it off with brake cleaner or Starting fluid.

For you new guys that are contemplating bedding your first gun, buy the Brownell's Accra Release in the spray can and a can of Brake cleaner. De grease your parts with the brake cleaner, let dry completely. Then apply two coats of the Accra Release, spray down in the chamber of the rifle, also. By following this simple two steps, you have just eliminated ANY chance of ever sticking an action in a stock.

After you have bedded 20 actions, then go to a paste wax. You will have learned where the mistakes could happen if release agent had not been applied in certain areas, like the rifle chamber, threads in the action, trigger pin areas.

There are several good spray on waxes, some are water bases and some are alcohol based.

When release agents are not properly applied, you will see a section of stock pulled away when the action is removed from the stock. This will NEVER happen with Accra Release, two coats, action cleaned previously with brake cleaner or starting fluid....Never.

I quit helping any new guy that wanted to use Johnson's paste wax or Kiwi clear shoe polish. I asked them to buy the Accra Release, they wanted to cheap out with the paste wax. When several of them stuck their action in the stock, in their minds, it was now my problem to help them fix the issue....action would not come out of the stock. I told them to take it to a professional gunsmith, knowing full well that the stock was going to break or come apart during the action removal.

Key points for a new guy contemplating bedding his first gun:

a. de grease screws and action twice, including down inside chamber, inside bolt rails

b. use two coats of Spray on Accra Release, wash this off with brake cleaner or
starting fluid when you are done

you will never stick an action in a stock. You can get into large rubber bands, stock maker's screws, installing pillars etc., later on down the road. Modeling clay in the stock where you do not want the bedding compound to go is a great help. Brownell's sells some modeling clay that will not get hard or dry out in 20 years, and it is not expensive...use over and over again.

You will develop your own quirks on how you like to bed, lots of ways to skin a cat. Some guys tape off the sides, bottom, and front of recoil lugs as an aid in action removal from the stock, not a bad thing. I like to put a 45* angle on the sides of the recoil lug with a file, and bed the whole recoil lug, not a better way, just different. Washer type of recoil lugs need to be free floated on the bottom. Where you have a screw going into the bottom of a recoil lug, you need to keep the bottom of the lug bedded.

I bed every action prior to firing a shot, and also free float the barrel with a minimum of a credit card thickness between the barrel and stock to eliminate "barrel slap" on the stock during recoil.

You need to make darn sure that your stock screws or pins do not touch the stock, nor the trigger adjustment screws if you have upgraded to a different trigger. A trigger adjustment screw or trigger pin digging into the stock or bedding is a deal killer on accuracy.

Savages are a pain, Everyone of the them needs a pillar installed in front of the trigger, great ones are sold on ebay. I free float the tang on my savages.

Best of luck on your first bedding job!
 
Very good advice on the bedding process. I use acetone to decrease, and literally use the shoe polish to fill gaps, cracks, voids, etc. This is all done immediately prior to bedding, so there is a short period for the wax/polish to firm up, but not to dry out, shrink or crack. Because of paying attention (or dumb luck) to details, I have never locked an action into a stock. I like using the Devcon steel, it is heavy, but a couple ounces on a 4-6 lb barrel won't hurt, and the consistency is easy to work with. As with most jobs, measure twice, cut once.....rsbhunter
 
Well said, KC. I like paste wax, but you are right on the money that it better be put on right. I've never tried the spray releases other than lanolin based. Nice write up
 
Devcon Steel is world class. Marine Tex Grey is a good choice. Bisonite is perhaps one of the hardest to work with on mixing.

The worst problems a guy will encounter if the action comes out of the stock easily, is getting bedding material out of tough to get to areas, IF the release agent FAILED, the very worst being the chamber or lug area in the action. Dental pics are a great aid. This is where new guys really benefit from a spray wax applied after de-greasing, twice. I have seen numerous guys stick their action in the stock with paste wax and Pam. Inexperience often is an expensive teacher.

A company called Rexco makes some release agents that are fabulous, but these are for more experienced guys that bed a lot of guns. Brownell's Accra Release spray can will do 6 actions at least, and this is where a new guy needs to go with 100% NO PROBLEMS encountered.

Dremel tool with various carbide bits upgrade will come down the road once a guy realizes that he can actually do a world class job on his own rifle...ebay is your friend.

New guys need to get experience.

Acquiring the tools to free float barrels is another can of worms.
 
Since you have a bedding block I would only bed the back of the recoil lug. You don't want it touching on the front, sides or bottom.
 
Since you have a bedding block I would only bed the back of the recoil lug. You don't want it touching on the front, sides or bottom.
Not to be "that guy" , but this statement is totally false. I was told the same thing. "You have to tape the sides and front!" I have bedded the lug numerous ways and they all shoot. Just my experience.
 
I may need to try the spray waxes....I can see where not applying polish/paste wax properly can cause problems....I don't use the shoe polish in place of play dough/ clay, but I will use a fillet of wax at the action/ recoil lug junction and barrel nut/ lug junction. I have only bedded maybe 8-10 rifles, so I don't have a lot of experience, but I do enjoy making my rifle as accurate as I am capable of...rsbhunter
 
Play Doe dries out, the modeling clay from Brownell's will not dry out, re use it for 30+ years.

Skim coat all bedding blocks, remember that custom actions are the only ones that may NOT warp during heat treat.

You can bed the recoil lug or free float, I have played with this numerous times with customs. If there is a difference it is hard to tell.

I do not bed underneath barrels anymore, even on a 30" unturned blank on a Rem 700.

It is fun to play with different ideas to come up with your own personal favorite, and this will probably change over time. Don't be scared to experiment.

Another issue, three screw actions like Ruger and Win, often are ruined by tightening down on the center screw. I learned to leave these screws loose or completely remove them. A world class bedding job will have pillars for the center screw also.

Make sure that your magazine box floats between the action and floor plate. You can hit the bottom of the mag box on a belt sander or add washers between the floor plate and stock to get the mag box to fit. Often it is wise to bevel the floor plate's edges and bottom of the mag box so the male and female parts will slide together easier during assembly.

It is a great Winter project to bed all your rifles, free float some barrels, tune some triggers. Long range shooters should consider bedding their scope base on the action and bedding the scope rings.
 
This is a very important but sticky party of gunsmithing. Yes there are tons of ways to do it. But only one result has to happen. A receiver tightened into the stock with no stress or binding at all. I'm only going to give a few tips here from 30 yrs of custom building.
Use a paste wax or clear shoe polish. Put wax on with whatever you need to use to get it on and in. Let this dry and buff completely off. You must buff off the dry residue from the wax. If you don't it will be harder to remove. Waxing like this doesn't give you a build up enough to measure so your parts fit better I based Accra release one time and threw it on a shelf where it still raises dust to sell at end of yr. Accra release is a build up spray. Spray on a fluid and let it dry. Repeat. Between thickness of this spray and and glass that shrinks the fit isn't as tight. Then you need to clean all this spray build up off everything before assembly. Maybe they changed all this about it for I haven't used it but one time about 10 yrs ago.
Always tape bottom of recoil lug. Or scrape glass away from bottom of recoil lug area. Any little scrape of glass or chip of anything goes in the lug bottom will cause a stress to push up. During my trainer to become a master gunsmith I was taught to tape front and sides and bottoms of the lug. I don't do it now.
I only use score hi bedding. It is thick and creamy feeling that stays where you put it quite well. Mixes easy. Doesn't shrink. Doesn't chipbor crack. Plus it comes in tubes for use in a glue gun. Super nice feature.
I also don't care for the middle screw. I back off all the torque and use some blue loctite to keep it from falling out on Remington adl.
When holding the action for the epoxy to set I use the rear action screw to hold the back down. When the action is bottomed on the action pillars I use electric tape a few wraps around the chamber and stock to help hold it all down.
If you polished the shoe shine polish off the metal and let it cure at least 24 hrs in the epoxy the barreled action will snap right up out of the bedding with no force what so ever. Shouldn't have to wiggle or jiggle it out.
Shep
 
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