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Barrel cooler

I have the magneto speed chiller. It works fine but makes a high pitch whining sound which is kind of annoying.

Now that I have a labradar I probably should get a chamber chiller too since it can charge off usb.
 
I use one of these with a piece of hose. Works pretty well.
 

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Many years ago when Precision Shooting Magazine was still being published, I saw a small CO2 tank that was promoted as a barrel cooling system. Turns out the volume of that tank was too small to work properly.

A tank 20 lb or larger will work properly. A ball valve is used to control the flow with a 3/8" OD rubber hose attached. The tip of the hose is cut at a taper so it will wedge into the neck area of a wide range of chambers.

The photo shows a regulator, which I discovered later on, isn't necessary. In case someone wants to use a regulator I was able to try different ones at the local welding supply shop. This had the best flow: Prest-O-Lite R36-50-580

As for using the CO2. Hold hose in place while you open up tank valve then crack open the ball valve to get a mild flow coming out of the end of the barrel. Generally a barrel can be cooled to ambient in 15 to 20 seconds. When the barrel begins to feel cooler on outside stop and let the metal radiate the effect which will continue for a while. Quite a few other shooters have adopted this system including Dave Miller the gunsmith.

I don't use the system year round, mostly in the hotter months or when I want to speed up the process of finding a load.



 
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I decided to use a cheap wireless air mattress pump from Amazon and some tubing from a local hardware store - all in was around $20. Ryan from LRO posted a review of all of them online and it was clear that the air mattress pump pushed out the most air - some of those barrel coolers really don't do much.
 

I decided to use a cheap wireless air mattress pump from Amazon and some tubing from a local hardware store - all in was around $20. Ryan from LRO posted a review of all of them online and it was clear that the air mattress pump pushed out the most air - some of those barrel coolers really don't do much.
I've have done the same after wasting money on a few of the commercial "barrel coolers". I use a $20 cordless, rechargeable mattress pump from Amazon and a flexible hose from Ace Hardware. You never even lift the little pump up. The only issue is that the internal battery doesn't last long enough. I usually use a USB Y adaptor off of my LabRadar battery and plug the mattress blower into it for extended use. Or ............. for an extra $20, just buy a second pump.
 
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I'm cheap. I keep a bottle of water and an old bath towel in my range bag. Gets the job done quickly with no batteries or usb chargers. Gotta be me,
^^^This with my SS barrels^^^ Lately I have been using the frozen ice/gel packs on all barrels with great results. Just lay them on top of the barrel (2-3 of them) and after a few cools they have a nice channel to fit easily. They have condensation so be aware and I just put some old folded T-shirt to pick up any moisture. Thin cotten allows better heat exchange and wont let the condensation direct on barrel.
 
If you are shooting for accuracy you want to try to keep your barrel at the same temp with each shot.
Getting the barrel hot and then putting ice on it contracts the metal in the barrel FAST stressing the metal.
Just a suggestion if you can shoot two rifles on station and switch back and forth giving you barrel to cool normally.
Use a barrel cooler with blowing surrounding air to help cool.
Use a Barrel Temp Stirp to see what your barrel is actually heating up to.

I have seen hunters at the range fire off a box of ammo (20 rounds) at 100 yds trying to sight their scope in. They ask why their shot are "Walking" up and to the right. Well their barrel went from 70 degrees to 200 degrees +. in 1/2 hour.

A barrel temperature strip does not inherently help you shoot better but it does help you fine tune a shooting cadence that will help maintain a consistent barrel temperature. This will help improve performance translating to more consistent group sizes on target. In general, recommend that if a barrel begins to reach 140°, it is too hot and continuing to shoot at these temperatures accelerates barrel wear and ultimately leads to a short service life. The optimal barrel temperature is going to be dependent on the rifle. Keeping notes and recording barrel temperatures when the best groups are shot will aid in establishing correlations between barrel temps and on target performance which does help the shooter produce better results.
 
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