barrel chambering

Yes, please.

I need to chamber some barrels and have been holding off.

Q1: In absence of a roughing reamer do you pre-drill to remove material?
 
A lathe with a 4 jaw chuck and a rear spider or steady rest
A couple dial indicators
Turning tool
Threading tool
Boring Bar
Reamer and go gauge
Calipers
Feeler gauges
Barrel vise
Action wrench

I drill and pre-bore 80-90% of my chambers to lessen tool wear, speed things up, make sure they are as straight as can be. If the bore isn't straight when dialed in then your not doing yourself and favors pre-boring the chamber.
 
what do i need to chamber a barrel on my own ? novice just wanting to learn a few things !!


Not being a smart *** so don't take it that way.

If you have to ask, you need a good gun smith.

Gunsmithing is not something you can learn over night. it takes years of experience, the proper
machinery, and lots of tooling to do a proper and safe job.

I recommend starting slow and doing the other parts of Gunsmithing that are not dangerous Like bedding, floating, cleaning, parts assembly ETC.

At best you could buy a pre chambered barrel and install it on a Savage action. I don't like pre chambered barrels but it is an option to learn how to head space and other things related to building a rifle.

Just My opinion

J E CUSTOM
 
thanks je . have done all of that was just thinking i'd give it a try . i'll go talk to local gunsmith .
 
I'm up to making parts. Firing pins, cross pins, extractors and fitting barrels for Black Powder Metalic Cartridge rifles like rolling blocks, trap doors and falling blocks.

Just getting to the chambering part. The strait wall cartridges are a non-issue.

I watched the last portions of chambering a couple of the Nosler "wildcats" but didn't see if he did and pre chambering material removal with a drill or end mill in the lathe
 
I pre-drill about .030-.040" under the chamber shoulder dimension. Usually I leave about .200-.300" left to ream on the depth. Then I bore the hole to about .010" under shoulder dimension for the full depth of the drilled hole. Next I enlarge the back half just large enough to get the reamer in the hole and to make sure the pilot is in the bore for it's full length. After that it's about 15 minutes to ream the rest of the chamber.

This way is much quicker than running the reamer in .050-.100" at a time. It also ensures the chamber is straight provided the bore is dialed in correctly.
 
I opt for micrometers over calipers every day of the week. A 0-1", 1"-2" and set of depth mics. Standards are needed to check the accuracy of your measuring tools. The other tools have already been listed, except a reamer holder of some sort. Some will insist a CNC tool room lathe is what's required, but the work can be done with a manual bench lathe. A NRA sponsored General Machining short course will get you familar with some basic manual machining principals and then follw up with another NRA sponsored Threading & Chambering class. Both of these classes are part of the NRA Summer Gunsmithing Courses that are taught at several of the gunsmithing schools (Trinadad State Jr. College, Montgomery Community College, Murry State College, and a couple of others. These classes are taught by people who really do know what they're doing. Just google NRA Summer Gunsmithing for the full list.) Most other 'machining' classes taught at the local community colleges are centered around CNC equipment with little or no instruction in manual machining. Those classes exisit to 'get you a job' and most all machine shops are CNC anymore. A safe and proper chambering job should never be taken lightly.
 
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