Anywhere to order 7mm stw brass? Or info on fire forming 375 H&H

Wyatt318streets

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Does anyone know where I can order 7mm stw or 8mm Rem Mag brass that's not nosler?

I've also seen threads about fire forming 300 and 375 H&H brass. Has anyone else tried this? And how hard is it? And does the inside of the neck need reamed to chamber right? I'm fairly new to reloading and I've never tried this. Any info from someone who has tried this would be awesome. gun)
 
I reform 375 h@h brass to 7stw all the time... I prefer factory 7stw brass but I'm not paying up for nosler either...
Hornady 375 brass is available and at about $1 a case; a simple two stage neck down (30 or 338 then down to 7mm with your stw die) and fireform will get you there... You can either blow the casings out with pistol powder and c.o.w. or fire with a mild load... I prefer live fire (you will get trigger time too then) but the c.o.w. is cheaper.

For simplicities sake go with the 8rem brass Muddy showed you; if you want more bang for your buck and like to tinker a bit do the 375 brass...
 
I've always had the best luck with Winchester brand 375 H&H brass over anything Remington but have used about anything you can imagine to for 30-8mm and 7STW cases. If you have a variety of dies it's pretty easy to form cases like has been said. The necks will get thicker and if you have a custom barrel with a tighter neck that might cause issues but it never caused a issue with a SAMMI spec reamer for me. You just neck them down in stages and create a shoulder that is tight in the chamber when fireforming.
 
I got an 8mm Rem mag die for the first step. Seemed like the simplest since that is how the STW came about.
 
You can use a 8mm mag die, a 338wm die backed off, a 300wm, die backed off, etc. The 8 mag die is the easiest first step since they are the same case. It's also easier to make big steps when the caliber is larger so you might want to use a 300wm between the 8mm and the 7STW die.
 
Here is the link you were searching for

http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f28/fireforming-7-stw-brass-300-h-h-112069/

I'd personally rather deal with less neck runout with the 300 H&H and the possibility of having to neck turn to get it to chamber coming all the way down from 375 H&H. Neither are what the STW is so it's not full fledged stw brass until you shoot it with a bullet or cream of wheat. 300 H&H just run it through your stw die until the neck portion is sized enough to snugly chamber and then shoot it. It makes for good brass.

I've mainly done it with Norma. If you do it with that you don't need to anneal at all, it's pretty soft brass. If you get Remington or Winchester you might want to consider annealing so that the shoulder area doesn't crack and forms to the chamber better. It's rare that it does crack but I have seen it.
 
I have used 300 weatherby and 340 weatherby brass as well as 300 H and H and 375 H and H. They all work well
 
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