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Any tips to using hold points?

Oldschool280

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2016
Messages
616
Hello, i have three different hold points on the scope that's with my 6.5x55. The. Only range at the club is 100 yards, and there isn't really any longer distance ranges in my area. Question is , is there an easy way to figure out where the bullet will land using the 100 yard range and using the impact points a above my set zero? In other words the rifle is set at zero and the next crosshair will hit 5 inches high at 100 and the next crosshair 12 inches high at 100. Ive been looking at whatever charts i can find on the internet but nothing that i would be 100 percent sure of. I have my own theories of what may happen but was looking for a more rock solid answer .Any info would be greatly appreciated thanx
 
Hello, i have three different hold points on the scope that's with my 6.5x55. The. Only range at the club is 100 yards, and there isn't really any longer distance ranges in my area. Question is , is there an easy way to figure out where the bullet will land using the 100 yard range and using the impact points a above my set zero? In other words the rifle is set at zero and the next crosshair will hit 5 inches high at 100 and the next crosshair 12 inches high at 100. Ive been looking at whatever charts i can find on the internet but nothing that i would be 100 percent sure of. I have my own theories of what may happen but was looking for a more rock solid answer .Any info would be greatly appreciated thanx

You could change your inches to MOA and think your first line is 5MOA up. MOA is constant. Inches are not. Hopefully a clever fellow will come along and fill in the blanks I created.
 
If it's a second focal plane scope, then it's pretty useless.....
I know someone will chime in and say, " it's calibrated for such and such power." But if you adjust the power dial, there's a good chance that the power setting isn't going back to the same place each time. I never figured out why they would offer a BDC, MOA and Mil reticles in the second focal plane.
Or at least have index points that "click" into place and will stay when bumped...

Don't get me wrong, you can do it, and be close, but being precise is almost impossible. A fixed power or setting your power dial all they way up to its highest power, and leaving it would be the only way to figure it accurately...
 
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