Annealing

dfanonymous

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Jul 16, 2016
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1,406
Discoloration isn't a great indicator on its own.

I found the 750 was still too low to have an impact, instead I go by the dull red glow in a dark room (and tune from there based on results) and use the 450 to ensure the heat hasn't spread where it shouldn't.
I go by the dull red glow in the dark room as well prior to tuning.
 

Cinchy

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Mar 27, 2012
Messages
255
Location
Parker, Kansas
How do you like the Annealeez? I planned on purchasing one this month, I have a 28 Nosler, 270W, 7Rem Mag, 6.5 Creed and 6.5 Grendel. I have never annealed, I had thought about the Annie Annealer, but I do not want to jump that high in price the Annealeez looks like I can get into it for about 325.00.
For the amount of shooting I do, I think it was a very good investment. Like you I could not justify spending a bunch of money, After I got it set up it cycled the brass quickly. It comes with a small catch pan & it needs to be bigger. I had a larger pan that fit perfect & it hold 50 cases. I also replaced the 2 adjustment nuts with wing nuts so I don`t have to hunt up a wrench every time to adjust positions.
 

Cemetery21

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Jan 10, 2021
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70
Location
Southwest MO
Hard to tell much by the color, but the consistent location of the line looks good. I set up with junk brass and set the time/temp to drop the brass just before the flame burns yellow (zinc) off the neck.
That stopped ALL of my neck splits on old brass and bullet seating/ neck pull is now consistent.
Note: you may get some yellow flame from neck carbon or cleaning compound residue. Don't worry about that if you set up the time/temp with squeaky clean junk brass or previously annealed junk brass. I keep half a dozen or so of each to use for setup every time.
 

bmmoses

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Joined
Jul 20, 2021
Messages
5
Location
10052 Clyde Circle
I always re-size my brass and then clean and then I anneal.
When you anneal first when you clean your brass (I use a vibratory cleaner) it cleans the anneal off and you can't tell which case has been annealed and those that have not.
That's just my method

I just started annealing as well.

Any issue with the brass "moving" if you anneal after sizing? Should you run an expander mandrel after annealing to be sure?

Thanks
 

Spoonbill

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Nov 12, 2019
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34
Location
Strawberry Plains, TN
First time user of new Annealeez .I used Templiq 450 & 750. Just curious if these appear to be annealed properly. Does it Look like the heat went far enough down the case body? I'm really pleased how consistent the coloration is on every cartridge.
They look great! Can you advise how you used the 450 and 750?
 

Timnterra

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Oct 18, 2012
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1,580
Location
Rapid City SD
There is a lot of bad information going around about annealing cartridge brass. The whole point of annealing brass it to change the grain structure of the brass and drawn it back down to the level of hardness that it was at before firing and resizing. The biggest misunderstanding I had was that brass could be properly annealed by heating it to 750 degrees and letting it cool. Recently I bought all the parts and started building my own annealez style annealer. I was just following the advice of others online that had been repeated again and again. I never questioned where the number 750 came from; I just assumed that the people talking about it knew what they were talking about. It was just a few months ago that I came across a very long thread on LRH talking about the AMP annealer. This led me down a rabbit hole of research about how annealing actually works and stopped my home built annealer project. I ended up buying the AMP just for the piece of mind knowing that my brass will be the most consistent brass possible. Here is a video that explains why 750 degrees is not adequate to properly anneal brass. It might change the color of the brass and make it look annealed but it is not hot enough to change the grain structure of the brass and drawn it back to its previous hardness.
 

archangel485

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Sep 17, 2016
Messages
243
Location
Wyoming
My steps for prepping fired brass are:

  1. De-prime (Could be done about anytime before resize as it's hard to get a good measurement if a fired primer is sticking out slightly)
  2. Tumble (I do a pre-tumble, my theory is annealing and sizing are more consistent, plus it keeps crud out of my sizing die)
  3. Anneal (I do use the tempilaq 750 on the neck to about 1/8 inch below the shoulder on about 5 cases to be setup, then I run them all)
  4. Lubricate (I use a homemade alcohol oil mixture and I have to let the alcohol fully evaporate, so I lube the whole lot I'm working with at one time)
  5. Resize
  6. Trim/bevel/chamfer (if required, usually isn't)
  7. Tumble (To remove lube and, if necessary, brass shavings)
  8. Prime
  9. Load
 

Philward

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Oct 17, 2015
Messages
369
I thought the big benefit of the annealeaz is the software that knows what your brass will need for perfect results based on testing to destruction. Why bother with templac?
 

SSG Graybush

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Aug 13, 2020
Messages
94
Location
Winchester VA
First time user of new Annealeez .I used Templiq 450 & 750. Just curious if these appear to be annealed properly. Does it Look like the heat went far enough down the case body? I'm really pleased how consistent the coloration is on every cartridge.
I center the flame on the neck shoulder junction. You really only need the shoulder and neck to be annealed and never more then a 1/3 down the case. Annealing gives more consistent neck tension, shoulder bump and with the correct shoulder bump of 1.5-2 thou it allows for the shoulder to do the expanding for good brass longevity. I just run my Annealezz so the brass is in the flame for 6- 6.5 seconds.
How long did you do yours? I think your looks fine. I try to just barely get a noticeable annealing line. My way is not scientific but I can get 13+ firings from all my rifles, never had a pc of brass fail/seperate even from belted mags.
 

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