For you guys that anneal with torch by hand, do you put in water to cool or let it air cool. I've seen online it done both ways. Want to try it. Looking to see what the experts on here say. It would seem to me quenching in water could harden but I don't know so that's why I'm asking.
Annealing question
- Thread starter Rilow
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Lovellr653
Well-Known Member
I'm in the same boat as you and would love an answer backed with some reasoning. I made up a quick rig the other night to anneal 300PRC brass using a cordless drill and deep well socket, I let them hit the tray and air cool. Seems to have worked fine but I can't really back that up with quantifiable data.
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That look good I might have to try you set up. I see some guys just drop them on wet towel
25WSM
Well-Known Member
Doesn't matter if you let it cool down with air or drop it in water you will achieve the same hardness. Brass doesn't quench harden like steel. If brass isn't annealed correctly it isn't going to help you. In fact if you do it inconsistent it will hurt your accuracy. I like my brass for target shooting slightly over annealed and on hunting ammo I only anneal if it needs fire formed or necked up or down. A friend of mine does real good at 1000 yard matches and he anneals his necks dead soft. He keeps them in the flame till they glow orange. That's too far in my opinion but works great for him.
Shep
Shep
catamountsierra
Well-Known Member
I've started using the salt bath method, which seems to work quite well. I drop the cases into water (well below where the pot of hot salt is) not so much for a quench, but to rinse of any remaining salt and keep any heat from migrating farther towards the case head. Then too, the amount of heat in the neck and shoulders area of the case once removed from the heat source probably isn't enough to do anything to the rest of the brass. Air cooling or dropping in water both work, and as I see it, it comes down mostly to personal preference.
I agree with 25 wsm, water or air, doesn't mater . If you can't judge temperature by the glow of the brass when held in a fame, use Templac 475 ( Temperature Indicating Liquid 475 degree).
adk hunter
Well-Known Member
Every day I have to google something new from here...
And spend more money
25WSM
Well-Known Member
Anyone who anneals by holding the brass in there fingers is foolish. Yes you can get a 300wbymag annealed in your fingers but try a 6br or 222. Way to inconsistent. For a basic way to start use a deep well socket that sticks up to just under the shoulder. This only works on certain length brass. But if you spin it in a drill and put it in the flame spinning you will see the flame wrap around the neck. When you just see a little bit of orange flame on the whispey tips of the flame take it out. The problem is consistently getting the right temp. You really should get a machine that has a timer that you can set. And puts the brass in the flame the same spot each time. To do them by hand is just really hard to do and get consistent results. And consistent is what we're trying to achieve. There are several machines that use has torches that work good and you can get one for around 350 bucks. The amp is probably the best but that's alot of coin. Get 4 buddies together and get the amp.
Shep
Shep
And in my experience, Templac doesn't store for long periods once opened. Must be a trick to storing it so it doesn't dry up. (maybe in the fridge).
In January, I took delivery of a Hot Salt Annealing kit made in Canada. Haven't tried it as yet, had all my annealing for the year done with my Hornady Annealing Kit ( discontinued).
kiwikid
Well-Known Member
Not long ago I did a small test to see how hot the base/web area of the cases got using a socket in the cordless drill and a torch. I also did the same test with brass straight out of my AMP annealer.
I tried 223, 22-250 and 257 Roberts brass with the torch and the bases attained a temperature of between 201°F (223) and 250°F for the 257 Roberts, the 22-250 was around 235°F. After the cases were annealed I placed them on a piece of wood with a Fluke temp probe between the wood and case.
When I did the same test with the AMP I only did 257 Roberts cases and the reached 230°F so pretty much in line with the torch and socket test.
This suggests to me that you can't hold onto the base of a case with bare fingers and anneal the case effectively.
As for cooling I drop my cases onto an aluminium tray which acts as a heat sink and stops the cases from scorching my wooden bench.
I tried 223, 22-250 and 257 Roberts brass with the torch and the bases attained a temperature of between 201°F (223) and 250°F for the 257 Roberts, the 22-250 was around 235°F. After the cases were annealed I placed them on a piece of wood with a Fluke temp probe between the wood and case.
When I did the same test with the AMP I only did 257 Roberts cases and the reached 230°F so pretty much in line with the torch and socket test.
This suggests to me that you can't hold onto the base of a case with bare fingers and anneal the case effectively.
As for cooling I drop my cases onto an aluminium tray which acts as a heat sink and stops the cases from scorching my wooden bench.
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25WSM
Well-Known Member
I know you can take a long case and hold it in the flame long enough to make the neck glow with your fingers. But why would you want to.
Shep
Shep
"if "they land on their side on the aluminum tray, the side against the aluminum will cool quicker, possibly causing uneven cooling. Same for dropping them all together on top of one and another. That's why water is popular.
