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Annealing Hornady Brass

merbeau

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2011
Messages
193
I recently purchased a Ruger 416 African rifle and at this point in time Hornady is the only brass in town. I have read that Hornady brass will 'harden' after perhaps 3 reloads which, if true, will impact performance.

My question is does anyone have experience with Hornady brass and would you recommend to anneal the necks after several firings?

I have found my rifle likes BLC2 powder with a Barnes 300 grain bullet using load of 82.5 grains. That is about 3 grains below maximum that was evaluated from http://1587510142.rsc.cdn77.org/RRoom/researchsheets/416AfricanAlaskan(Ruger)-LOADDATAKKempa.pdf - not sure if that makes any difference or not.

Thanks

Robert
 
Some folks anneal the Horndy brass after every firing, however the recommendation is after every 3 firings. Annealing the brass will minimize spring back, which effects neck tension and also prevent the neck from splitting.
 
I've reloaded and annealed a bit of Hornady brass for the 6.5 Creed and anneal every 3rd firing. Have 100 cases that have been fired 10 times and another 100 that have been fired 8 times on this schedule.

I think the biggest factor with soft Hornady brass is the primer pockets opening up after 3 or 4 firings. I doesn't take pressure too well. I run a moderate load in my Creed and that is why my brass last a while. Run it hard and it won't.
 
I've reloaded and annealed a bit of Hornady brass for the 6.5 Creed and anneal every 3rd firing. Have 100 cases that have been fired 10 times and another 100 that have been fired 8 times on this schedule.

I think the biggest factor with soft Hornady brass is the primer pockets opening up after 3 or 4 firings. I doesn't take pressure too well. I run a moderate load in my Creed and that is why my brass last a while. Run it hard and it won't.
This is what I have found also.
3-4 firings and you can really feel the pockets getting loose.
 
I cant stand hornady brass I have to use it for my 405 Winchester and it sucks .Its too thick and will collapse when I load it .I had nothing but problems trying to make 375 jdj brass from 444 marlin hornasy brass .I bought some 375 jdj brass that ssk had hornady make it was junk .I have had lots more problems with it too in other calibers !
 
Thanks to all that replied.

I am on my third firing and will go ahead an anneal after this round. So far the primer pockets seem to be still tight. I have never used Hornady brass before but at this point in time for the 416 it is the only option. Nosler is now making brass for the 375 Ruger which I have switched to.

I can say the brass is not consistent weight wise. Of the 100 pieces that I purchased, I was able to find 35 that were similar in weight.

Thanks again for your help.

Robert
 
M, +3 on the primer pockets. I have a 50 pc bag of Hornady for the .270 Win which has 4% loose pockets after 2-3 firings of near max loads. Guess I'll scrap it since I wouldn't feel right selling it. Good brass is worth the price.
 
Since I run everything I shoot pretty hard, I have a great way to anneal Hornady brass.

Put it in a pan and get an OXY-ACETYLENE torch, not propane and melt that crap into a ingot of brass.

Take it to the local recycling place and sell it, take the $$$ and go buy REAL BRASS.:)
 
M, +3 on the primer pockets. I have a 50 pc bag of Hornady for the .270 Win which has 4% loose pockets after 2-3 firings of near max loads. Guess I'll scrap it since I wouldn't feel right selling it. Good brass is worth the price.

Would agree with that. Perhaps in a few years other brands will be available for the Ruger.
 
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