Advice Sought: Decapping When Neck Sizing?

[FiatFreak]

I have two presses and all the necessary devices (powder scales, dies, headspace gauges, etc.). I bought these items years ago, but haven't used them yet. I've been researching reloading for years, but have yet to begin doing it. Now I'm ready to start! Apart from handgun calibers, my sole rifle reloading will likely be .243 for my SAKO 85 Stainless Varmint rifle. I've been reading tons of posts about full-length vs. neck sizing opinions, so there's no need to continue that debate here. From everything I've studied, I believe I'll want to neck-size my cases.

Most rifle dies decap the case and full-length resize it in one step. I am assuming that, if only neck sizing is desired, the decapping needs to be performed as a separate step, using a hand-decapping tool or a decapping-only die that won't resize. I assume the next step would be neck sizing, followed by the powder charge and then bullet seating.

I'll be starting with a single-stage press. I will be firing the reloaded cartridges in only one rifle, of course.

Advice and suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you!

 

[Eric H]

Take a look at Redding Universal decapping dies. I always decap before doing anything else.

 

[338 dude]

I have two presses and all the necessary devices (powder scales, dies, headspace gauges, etc.). I bought these items years ago, but haven't used them yet. I've been researching reloading for years, but have yet to begin doing it. Now I'm ready to start! Apart from handgun calibers, my sole rifle reloading will likely be .243 for my SAKO 85 Stainless Varmint rifle. I've been reading tons of posts about full-length vs. neck sizing opinions, so there's no need to continue that debate here. From everything I've studied, I believe I'll want to neck-size my cases.

Most rifle dies decap the case and full-length resize it in one step. I am assuming that, if only neck sizing is desired, the decapping needs to be performed as a separate step, using a hand-decapping tool or a decapping-only die that won't resize. I assume the next step would be neck sizing, followed by the powder charge and then bullet seating.

I'll be starting with a single-stage press. I will be firing the reloaded cartridges in only one rifle, of course.

Advice and suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you!

I use the Frankford arsenal hand tool. It works great will work for any cartridge quickly and easily

 

[TucsonFX4]

I use a separate recapping die. Recapping doesn't require high precision, so no need to go fancy. I use a Lee. Then I clean the primer pocket, clean the brass, resize, primer, powder, bullet. I am using a progressive press, but it is wasted for my rifle reloading, as I do everything in single stages and measure and confirm weights/sizes at every step.

 

[Tiny Tim]

I decap as a separate step myself, but a standard, full length die can decap and neck size by not setting it deep enough to push the shoulder back. Decapping is complete long before the shoulder is touched.

 

[Dirtrax]

Lee universal decappiing die is a handy tool.
For neck sizing you could consider a Lee collet neck sizing die. It decaps as it sizes.

 

[Pdyson]

Lee universal decappiing die is a handy tool.
For neck sizing you could consider a Lee collet neck sizing die. It decaps as it sizes.

cheap lee decap die is all you need.
Back when I used to neck size, the Lee Collet neck die made the most accurate ammo. I would bump it a couple times, spinning it a half turn between bumps to maximize neck concentricity. If you need more neck tension you can spin the mandrel in a drill while pinching it with fine grit sandpaper, or order undersized mandrels from lee. Don't set your press to cam over on a collet die.

 

[Mikecr]

Ideas posted here:

Decapping tool

Any recommendations on a hand decapping tool?

www.longrangehunting.com

 

[The Oregonian]

I used to break the pin on SRP decapping dies, I believe it was Lee Universal. I then started using this and have yet to break one. I just leave the SRP pin in and use it for all my rounds.

Mighty Armory

 

[cdherman]

I have two presses and all the necessary devices (powder scales, dies, headspace gauges, etc.). I bought these items years ago, but haven't used them yet. I've been researching reloading for years, but have yet to begin doing it. Now I'm ready to start! Apart from handgun calibers, my sole rifle reloading will likely be .243 for my SAKO 85 Stainless Varmint rifle. I've been reading tons of posts about full-length vs. neck sizing opinions, so there's no need to continue that debate here. From everything I've studied, I believe I'll want to neck-size my cases.

Most rifle dies decap the case and full-length resize it in one step. I am assuming that, if only neck sizing is desired, the decapping needs to be performed as a separate step, using a hand-decapping tool or a decapping-only die that won't resize. I assume the next step would be neck sizing, followed by the powder charge and then bullet seating.

I'll be starting with a single-stage press. I will be firing the reloaded cartridges in only one rifle, of course.

Advice and suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you!

OK, all the thoughts about decapping as a separate process are technically correct. And indeed, its what I do too.

But for a beginner, we may be making this too complicated. Or not.

Just what do you do with the 243? Do you value smooth feeding of your Sako? Do you value not over working the lugs on the bolt/receiver camming in a tight cartridge? Because true PURE neck only sizing will give you trouble eventually. The guys that do that, do it for extreme accuracy. And then they occasionally have to throw out their brass or anneal and full length resize, or at least bump the shoulder back.

What kind of dies do you own for your 243? Have you purchased a true neck sizing die, or are you planning to use a standard die, just set to not push the shoulder back? Because a proper neck sizing die will not really touch the body or the shoulder. And neck sizing with a standard die usually touches the body a little and allows a tiny bump back of the shoulder.

IMO, most beginning reloaders are best served using a standard set of dies, and investing in a Headspace Comparator. The headspace comparator allows accurate, repeatable measurement of the shoulder. The die is adjusted to push the shoulder back .001 or .002" No more. In the process, you will size the body as well. But you avoid overworking the brass in the critical locations.

In either case, if you are NOT going with bushing dies to neck size your cases, you do NOT need to decap as a separate process. The decapping pin is held in place by the expander ball, and if you are using the expander ball to establish final inside diameter of the case, you may as well punch out the primer.

I realize I have given a complicated answer. Back to the basic question: Can I decap with a neck sizing set up?
A: Yes You do not need to decap separately. With both pure neck sizing and the .001" bump variant, you can use the decapping pin and expander ball to re-establish the proper ID of the resized case.

Do you have a reloading manual? They usually have a nice intro section into the basics of reloading. Everyone should have read that section several time, from several different manuals.

 

[FiatFreak]

Firstly, thanks to everyone who responded thus far. I appreciate the comments and suggestions.

Responding to cdherman:

Just what do you do with the 243? Do you value smooth feeding of your Sako? Do you value not over working the lugs on the bolt/receiver camming in a tight cartridge? The guys that do that, do it for extreme accuracy.

I have done nothing with the .243...yet. Haven't put a single round through it...yet. I'm preparing for the future and lots of range time to come, eventually doing as much long-range varmint hunting as I can. I have two goals: best obtainable accuracy and not overworking the brass so as to maximize case life because I intend to do a lot of experimenting with loads, in search of accuracy.

What kind of dies do you own for your 243? Have you purchased a true neck sizing die, or are you planning to use a standard die, just set to not push the shoulder back?

I have yet to purchase .243 dies. I want to know all I can before I buy.

IMO, most beginning reloaders are best served using a standard set of dies, and investing in a Headspace Comparator. The headspace comparator allows accurate, repeatable measurement of the shoulder. The die is adjusted to push the shoulder back .001 or .002" No more. In the process, you will size the body as well. But you avoid overworking the brass in the critical locations.

I am not familiar with what a "headspace comparator" is. I have a "headspace gauge" for .30-06 with which I just drop a loaded round in to check headspace. Same thing?

I realize I have given a complicated answer. Back to the basic question: Can I decap with a neck sizing set up?
A: Yes You do not need to decap separately. With both pure neck sizing and the .001" bump variant, you can use the decapping pin and expander ball to re-establish the proper ID of the resized case.

Yes, it appears to be a complicated answer...and a GREAT answer at that! Thanks for taking the time to do so.

Do you have a reloading manual? They usually have a nice intro section into the basics of reloading. Everyone should have read that section several time, from several different manuals.

I certainly do have a reloading manual (Lyman), and have been reading it cover-to-cover for a good while, along with reading other books and on-line sources. I've been "studying" reloading for years with the intent of getting into it. Now's the time to start!
So, if I digest all you've written AND understand it, I suppose I should use a "regular" full-length decapping/sizing die BUT adjust it to just neck size and push the shoulder back .001" - .002" only. From what you've written, you seem to suggest that as being a near-ideal procedure for me. Do I have that right?
I'm not obsessing over this! I'm just trying to learn as much as possible. I believe I'll begin by just doing some full-length resizing initially just to get my "feet wet," and then start "tweaking" with subsequent reloading sessions.

Again...thanks to you and all those who have responded.

 

[Varmint Hunter]

I have never seen a neck sizing die that doesn't knock out primers at the same time. You really don't need a separate decapping die.

Don't complicate a simple procedure.

 

[cdherman]

I think FiatFreak's got a boat load of enthusiasm and knowledge, probably smart and real well read, but he admits this is a beginning endeavor for him. Good questions from him to my prior post. I am tired from a long work day, but not desiring to ignore his extended response. Hoping others can continue to help. I will chime in, in the coming days...

 

[cdherman]

Firstly, thanks to everyone who responded thus far. I appreciate the comments and suggestions.

Responding to cdherman:

I have done nothing with the .243...yet. Haven't put a single round through it...yet. I'm preparing for the future and lots of range time to come, eventually doing as much long-range varmint hunting as I can. I have two goals: best obtainable accuracy and not overworking the brass so as to maximize case life because I intend to do a lot of experimenting with loads, in search of accuracy.

I have yet to purchase .243 dies. I want to know all I can before I buy.

I am not familiar with what a "headspace comparator" is. I have a "headspace gauge" for .30-06 with which I just drop a loaded round in to check headspace. Same thing?

So, if I digest all you've written AND understand it, I suppose I should use a "regular" full-length decapping/sizing die BUT adjust it to just neck size and push the shoulder back .001" - .002" only. From what you've written, you seem to suggest that as being a near-ideal procedure for me. Do I have that right?
I'm not obsessing over this! I'm just trying to learn as much as possible. I believe I'll begin by just doing some full-length resizing initially just to get my "feet wet," and then start "tweaking" with subsequent reloading sessions.

Again...thanks to you and all those who have responded.

The Hornady Headspace Comparator is a tool that allows you to measure "Base to shoulder" So it allows you to measure just how much you have set the shoulder back when resizing. There are no objective tools that I know of that do this, other than the Hornady (original Stony Point IIRC). Its not expensive, and I use mine whenever I set up a new resizing die. Once you have the die set up and locked, you can basically forget it for a particular gun. One of the reasons I tend to avoid owning more than one gun in the same chambering. I HATE messing with the resizing die, once I am comfortable that the die is set just right.

Yes, your last paragraphs seem to capture what I would recommend. Only arriving at .001 - .002 is tricky without tools to measure it.

In pursuit of ultimate accuracy, which you desire, there are LOTS of further tweeks, ideas, procedures. Many have merit, otherwise the rest us fools would not discuss them ad nauseum. But for a beginning reloader, you should start with some standard processes that are good, time tested.

The process I describe to you will achieve better accuracy, better brass life than full length resizing every loading. Usually. And with less hassle and downsides than neck sizing, bushing sizing, mandrels, neck turning, collet neck resizing etc etc....

Thats my $0.02