308 being a pain in the neck when sizing!

I use a smaller expander button on my sizing die. For my .340 I use a 30 cal, for my .30 cal I use a .270, and for my .270 I use a .223. It has helped a ton when I pull the brass out of the die after resizing, there is nothing for the expander button to get caught on if there is some carbon in the neck. For sizing lube, I use Lee Sizing Lube that comes in a tube.
 
Hornady One Shot Case Lube works on the 308 and 300 Weatherby with my RCBS junior no problem with full lenght.
I also use an RCBS JR. and I continue to use the Hoppes #9 in the case neck and have never had a case drag over the expander ball. I use a different lube on the case body though.
 
A little study on the subject goes a long way as long as it's good info . Metallurgy is a complex subject heat treating is a very complex subject . Ferrous metals are treated differently then non-ferrous metals . Most of your non-ferrous metals need to be quenched to make them softer as they harden some when air cooled . Cleaning and lubing the brass also helps . Cleaning the inside of the case neck and lubing it also helps as the OP discovered . All the years of experience represented on this site by individuals with differing back grounds thus having differing ways to get to the same end results keeps these threads interesting .
 
So we have one guy trashing the Hornady Aerosol that has never used it and another who apparently doesn't know it comes with a wand that allows precise application.

We really do need to open the country up as obviously people are going stir crazy.

Been reloading since 1958, tried everything. For normal sizing, nothing beats one shot and every 4th case neck dipped in dry lube. HD resizing - Sinclair goop in the can.
 
I spray Hornady one shot in a ziplock bag on 50 cases at a time and roll them around a little and never have any problems or hard to size cases,even if I use my lee hand press
 
So we have one guy trashing the Hornady Aerosol that has never used it and another who apparently doesn't know it comes with a wand that allows precise application.

We really do need to open the country up as obviously people are going stir crazy.

Been reloading since 1958, tried everything. For normal sizing, nothing beats one shot and every 4th case neck dipped in dry lube. HD resizing - Sinclair goop in the can.

I have used it and know it came with a wand, used that too. Just having some fun with the thread. ;) It worked ok for me for sizing but I was serious about the over spray, all over the loading block. Ick.
 
Motor mica is good for lubing the inside of the neck. This eliminates cleaning the inside of the neck again. STP works well for most neck sizing operations.
 
I've never had this much trouble resizing brass. Goes in the die just fine but I can hardly get it back out. I know my little press(rcbs partner) requires a little more umph. But it's almost to the point of cases getting stuck. Using unique lube from the should down, dry neck. Any suggestions?
Perhaps you may start by taking your dies apart and give them a very good cleaning as they can accumulate a fir amount of debris over time.
The second thing that I do after manually depriming my brass is to wet tumble them for about 1/2 hour.
Next I will place them in a case dryer set at 105 degrees . In this manner by starting with clean brass it will make for an easier time when FL resizing with virtually nothing to bind up in your FL die.
As an added bonus your cases will now require less lubricant because they are a lot smoother after being wet tumbled and dried . ( You can feel the difference with your fingers just handle an uncleaned case as opposed to one that you have cleaned )
Now I use DYI a sizing lubricant that I have been using for years without any issiues.
Simply place your cases in a plastic tub and spray lube in a fine mist over them. Then I shake the cases and I am ready to start the process
FL resize ands then bump the shoulder back - .002" By using a Redding body die and the competition shell holder set in the appropriate caliber. Trim cases to length, champher ID s , deburr ODs. and wet tumble for about 1 1/2 hours.
Finish by drying the cases and complete your reloading process of seating primers, adding power and bullets.

OBTW after every 3rd firing my cases will get annealed before my final wet tumble and drying session.
When you have assembled your hand loads another bonus is because your brass should be as good as virgin brass, it will chamber much smoother with less friction because brass by nature is a gummy material and will retain any residue unless properly cleaned beforehand.
Hope this will give you food for thought !
 
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Lord I don't have the money nor know how to anneal
Can be done with a propane torch, a plain drill with the appropriate collet (see Lee brand)) or contained in a deep socket slightly larger than your brass diameter. This is attached to your drill.by using an adapter which goes from your collet to your drill chuck. Usually they are either 1/4" or 3/8" and may have to be modified to fit your drill by cutting off the female end which normally would fit into your socket wrench. (you can by a set at any discount store)
Watch U Tube on how to and also how not to videos.
 
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