Anyone using a 7-06 Ackley? Was going to do a 280 Ackley but since I am using Lapua 30-06 brass Dave at PTG said the 7-06 ai reamer is what I needed. Looks like they are real close, 7-06 is around .030 shorter with a longer neck.
7-06 Ackley Improved
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Anyone using a 7-06 Ackley? Was going to do a 280 Ackley but since I am using Lapua 30-06 brass Dave at PTG said the 7-06 ai reamer is what I needed. Looks like they are real close, 7-06 is around .030 shorter with a longer neck.rickiesrevenge
Well-Known Member
I would do a 280AI body with a shorter neck and use 30-06 brass. That way you can use an off the shelf redding 280AI die set to reload and still use your lapua 30-06 brass.
Aaron
Aaron
shortgrass
Well-Known Member
From the top of the shoulder to bolt face the .30/06 is about .150" shorter than the .280 AI. From the neck/shoulder junction it (the /06) is about .072-.073" shorter. That's quit at 'stretch' for fire forming /06 brass to .280 AI. With the .280 AI you already can have Nosler brass that you don't have to fire form. If you're going to buy a reamer go JGS or Manson,,, PT&G reamers are not worth owning (or renting)! Going with a wildcat, like the 7mm/06, just so Lapua brass can be use really doesn't make much sense in the long run. I think the guys at PT&G will tell you anything, just to get you to buy a reamer.
rickiesrevenge
Well-Known Member
If you know how to set up dies its no problem at all. As a matter of fact I have a f-class rig in exactly that chamber. Set your dies up so that there is a slight crush when you close the bolt and there's no worries. Everyones got an opinion.
Aaron
Aaron
Short grass I don't agree a lot of guys in benchrest are using PTG dealers and won't use anything but Lapua and doing well and I am one that does. Why do a hunting rifle any different than a bench gun if you want the best.
Thanks Aaron that's how I set up a die
shortgrass
Well-Known Member
I've been machining for 41+ yrs, now I've been chambering competion and hunting rifles for over 20. I own and have used JGS, Manson, Clymer, and PT&G reamers. There are over 75 finish reamers in my inventory of tools. The only chambering reamers of the 4 makers I listed that have given 'trouble' or short life before needing resharpened are those made by PT&G. I own more than one PT&G reamer, so my experience isn't limited to just 'one' reamer. I find many of them only cut on one flute straight from the factory. If they do cut evenly on all flutes they seem to dull quickly. A dull reamer doen't make for a good chamber. Two I can think of, right off hand, that didn't even complete ONE chamber before needing resharpened, were made by PT&G. One, a customer supplied .270 Win. and the other my .375 H&H. Both were brand spankin' new..The .270 'stalled' half way into the cutting the chamber, a chamber that I promptly finished, without a hitch, with MY .270 Manson made reamer. If there'd been a 'hard spot' that dulled the PT&G wouldn't I have found/felt it with my Manson reamer? The .375 H&H wasn't much better. It dulled before the chamber could be completed and I had to have it resharped before I could complete the job. I've put the cutting edges, of PT&G reamers, under strong magnification and they haven't near the finish of a JGS or one from Dave Mansons shop. Every PT&G tool I own has been either to JGS or Manson for reshapening. My guess would be that at PT&G they used a 'softer' grinding wheel, maybe even a courser wheel. Unless you've ever done any precision tool grinding you'll not understand why that'd make a difference or even what I'm talking about. My .338 Edge reamer is on it's way to Manson for work as of Monday. It's a PT&G and it's holding up a job. Why would a hunting rifle be different than a bench rifle? Because a hunting rifle needs to be a repeater (unless it was specifically designed as a single shot and then you don't need to be fumbling around in 20 deg. temps single loading a cartidge that fits the chamber as closely as a bench rest rifle), and 2nd, because it's not used under the controlled conditions that a bench rest rifle is. Lots of my customers use Lapua brass in their hunting rifle as do those who shoot some form of competition. I think just as many hunters use Nosler, Winchester, Hornaday and even Remington and do very well for themselves. Their success or lack of success isn't 'linked' to what brand of brass they happen to prefer for their hunting. I chamber hunting rifle chambers to "GO" + .002", some competition rifle chambers, too,,,,,, if they need to magazine feed. Bench rifle chambers are to the customer specs. The bench guys are limited to Norma or Lapua as the only 6BR brass is available from those two makers. I've not seen any Remington BR brass in years. My comments and views aren't based on internet 'hear-say' they're based on years of experience. I hold a 2 yr. degree from an accredited, in residence gunsmithing school, also. Not just a few semesters of 'machine shop' or a couple of seminars/instructional classes at the local community college.
SHORTGRASS
Thanks for the detail, you have a lot of experience to back up your reply and I appreciate that. I had planned to use Nosler 280ai brass but I have a friend at one of the major bullet companies that talked to 2 shooters using 280ai Nosler having problems with primer pockets becoming loose after 2 firings. I know that can happen on a hot load if that's what they were using. I have used Nosler 22-250 brass and 221 FB for my 17 MachIV and like it very well. Doing this on a Kelblys Atlas action with a Brux barrel and when done it will be right. Thanks again for your input.
John
Thanks for the detail, you have a lot of experience to back up your reply and I appreciate that. I had planned to use Nosler 280ai brass but I have a friend at one of the major bullet companies that talked to 2 shooters using 280ai Nosler having problems with primer pockets becoming loose after 2 firings. I know that can happen on a hot load if that's what they were using. I have used Nosler 22-250 brass and 221 FB for my 17 MachIV and like it very well. Doing this on a Kelblys Atlas action with a Brux barrel and when done it will be right. Thanks again for your input.
John
