6.5 saum from Rem 7mm saum how to do it?

[elmerdeer]

Hi guys need the steps on how to make 6.5SAUM brass from rem 7saum brass, I have 500 pieces to form.
I have a whidden full length sizing die.
My Reamer has .100 freebore and the neck is a no turn .298"

When i size down the rem brass without the expander I get hardly any runout 001-002" and if I use the expander I get 002" to 010" which i find to much.

Case length after necking down without expander is 2.045" with expander stem in its 2.037".
I dont have a micrometer to check for neck thickness but with my caliper it seems i'm getting about
.0165" neck thikness.

So what are the steps to make my brass , should I neck turn? Should I neck down using the stem in or out of my die?
What should I trim the overall length to?

And anything else I forgot?

Thank you
Elmer

 

[8andbait]

I have made a bunch of brass using bushing dies.

I use a .295 bushing without the button and size it down with one pass.
be sure to set your die so you don't move the shoulder too much.

I keep the bushing tight and don't let it float for this step, helps with runout

Then I run it over the expander mandrel, then trim to 2.020
It's important to trim before turning because the cutter needs to be consistent on where it contacts the shoulder.

Then I turn the necks down to .014 slightly into the shoulder (you may be able to go thicker due to the reamer you used, mine is .296)
I go slow and use a little dry neck lube on the inside of the neck so it doesn't get too hot.

Then size again with a .290 bushing, load and shoot

You may still have some run out but after the first firing you will be .000-.002 run out

 

[orch]

I have made a bunch of brass using bushing dies.

I use a .295 bushing without the button and size it down with one pass.
be sure to set your die so you don't move the shoulder too much.

I keep the bushing tight and don't let it float for this step, helps with runout

Then I run it over the expander mandrel, then trim to 2.020
It's important to trim before turning because the cutter needs to be consistent on where it contacts the shoulder.

Then I turn the necks down to .014 slightly into the shoulder (you may be able to go thicker due to the reamer you used, mine is .296)
I go slow and use a little dry neck lube on the inside of the neck so it doesn't get too hot.

Then size again with a .290 bushing, load and shoot

You may still have some run out but after the first firing you will be .000-.002 run out

This is pretty much exactly what I do except I'm starting with 300 saum brass so I size it down in a couple steps...

runout from using the expander button could be from inconsistent neck thickness, it can throw it off by 0.002" or so just because the button is pushing the excess brass to the outside (assuming the button is perfectly centred in the case mouth as it is pushing it back out).... 0.010" sounds more like the sizer button is not pulling through the case mouth true... either the de-capping rod is off kilter or it could be that the brass in the case mouth is uneven enough that it is not pulling through evenly and imparting runout because the button is following the path of least resistance...

Get yourself a Sinclair expander mandrel die and ditch the expander on the de-cap rod
You will be much happier with the job it does...

I'd definitely turn the necks, if you're keeping track of case runout you will be chasing your tail until your neck thickness is uniform.... trust me I've chased a lot of tail ....

I'd turn it so you have about 0.002" clearance on a loaded round, so 0.298" minus 0.004" (0.002" on each side) = 0.294"
0.294-0.264= 0.030" devide by 2 and you get case neck thickness of 0.015" as a target

Trim to length depends on your reamer, if it's a GAP 4S spec reamer I'm pretty sure they use the 7mmsaum trim length, but I believe they are either 0.120" and 0.085" free bore so I'm guessing yours is a different spec so you'd have to check your reamer print if you have access to it... I didn't use the GAP spec reamer but mine uses the 7saum case length...

As I said I use 300 saum brass so I already start out with the shorter case length anyways... I think I end up around 2.018" by the time I get all my cases prepped...

Where did you get your hands on 500 peices of REM saum brass anyways? I thought that stuff was extinct!

Orch

 

[elmerdeer]

This is pretty much exactly what I do except I'm starting with 300 saum brass so I size it down in a couple steps...

runout from using the expander button could be from inconsistent neck thickness, it can throw it off by 0.002" or so just because the button is pushing the excess brass to the outside (assuming the button is perfectly centred in the case mouth as it is pushing it back out).... 0.010" sounds more like the sizer button is not pulling through the case mouth true... either the de-capping rod is off kilter or it could be that the brass in the case mouth is uneven enough that it is not pulling through evenly and imparting runout because the button is following the path of least resistance...

Get yourself a Sinclair expander mandrel die and ditch the expander on the de-cap rod
You will be much happier with the job it does...

I'd definitely turn the necks, if you're keeping track of case runout you will be chasing your tail until your neck thickness is uniform.... trust me I've chased a lot of tail ....

I'd turn it so you have about 0.002" clearance on a loaded round, so 0.298" minus 0.004" (0.002" on each side) = 0.294"
0.294-0.264= 0.030" devide by 2 and you get case neck thickness of 0.015" as a target

Trim to length depends on your reamer, if it's a GAP 4S spec reamer I'm pretty sure they use the 7mmsaum trim length, but I believe they are either 0.120" and 0.085" free bore so I'm guessing yours is a different spec so you'd have to check your reamer print if you have access to it... I didn't use the GAP spec reamer but mine uses the 7saum case length...

As I said I use 300 saum brass so I already start out with the shorter case length anyways... I think I end up around 2.018" by the time I get all my cases prepped...

Where did you get your hands on 500 peices of REM saum brass anyways? I thought that stuff was extinct!

Orch

Thank you for the tips!
The brass i got was from a store near my area (montreal) that the owner was stuck with 1000 rounds of Rem 7saum loaded rounds, so my friend and I made a deal with the owner and we scored all the boxes of ammo for 1$ each round lol good price i think, so now i'm pulllllinngg bullets and putting them for sale lol. 160gr nosler partions, 150gr and 140gr Core-lokt ultras, so i should get at least half my money back. Which gets me the brass at .50 cents a piece and maybe less.

thx,
Elmer

 

[martinakl]

I need to come across a deal like that!

 

[orch]

Sweet deal!

Sounds like a lot of pullin bullets!
Put a carbide tip on a kinetic bullet puller and you could moonlight doing some concrete removal and bring the cost down to $0.25 a piece of brass!

Would be even cooler if you found out Remington was using H1000 in those factory loads and you'd be set for the 6.5 rsaum!

Orch

 

[elmerdeer]

Sweet deal!

Sounds like a lot of pullin bullets!
Put a carbide tip on a kinetic bullet puller and you could moonlight doing some concrete removal and bring the cost down to $0.25 a piece of brass!

Would be even cooler if you found out Remington was using H1000 in those factory loads and you'd be set for the 6.5 rsaum!

Orch

I tried to find out what powder but no luck, the 160gr had 60grs of a superfine powder in them never seen anything so fine, the 140gr looks like H4831 and has 62.5grs of powder in them.I'm sure I can use it in my 280AI but not chancing it, i think its fertilizer lol.

Elmer

 

[orch]

Yep, no point in risking catastrophic action failure directly in front of your face to save on powder!