Yeah! Creedmoor suck and this is Merica and we can talk about what we want in a thread!
500yds and further neck tension?
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Muddyboots
Well-Known Member
One of the issues with expander ball discussed is the neck lube impact upon neck tension. I have tried graphite, moly, mica and general lube. The graphite, mica and moly was impossible to remove effectively to get consistent neck tension. They left residual coating on the inside of the neck after being virtually pressed into the brass by the expander ball. That coating is a devil to remove and it will definitely affect neck tension. I went back to lube long time ago and just wipe it out with a swab soaked in acetone. It may take a few swipes to clean completely but I have found decent neck tension afterwards and that can be confirmed with ES and SD being pretty low. Acetone works extremely well in removing any and all lube products and or oily products as most know. It works for me which is all I ask.
That's all we can ask brother just to be personally happy with our results! That's all that matters.
SCSCHNUR
Well-Known Member
yes indeed
NW Hunter
Well-Known Member
Some of you talk about using an expander mandrel.
Can someone elaborate on the whys, whens and hows?
I'm in it to learn.
I used one in conjunction with neck turning and got added run out on my cases.
Can someone elaborate on the whys, whens and hows?
I'm in it to learn.
I used one in conjunction with neck turning and got added run out on my cases.
Yes sir. It just a last step to ensure all your necks are the same. Despite bushing die or just FL die it's an extra piece of insurance to ensure all your necks are the same. I typically choose a bushing .003 under bullet diameter so the mandrel is doing work. Don't have to worry about on FL normal dies cause it will be doing its job. Just good consistent way to set neck tension as the mandrel is .002 under bullet diameter
Ive heard many say they lube there case necks to stop bullet corrosion welding of bullet and case over time.
Muddyboots
Well-Known Member
I've heard that with military rounds that were older than me but that says a lot. They had to be from Civil War my wife says...
I rotate my loaded rounds by date and have extensive reloading documentation based upon lots and reloads per lot. I doubt if I have anything older than 5 years since what is the point of loading if you don't shoot it?
But now you got me curious. Does anyone have insight on bullet weld with modern powders and brass?
I rotate my loaded rounds by date and have extensive reloading documentation based upon lots and reloads per lot. I doubt if I have anything older than 5 years since what is the point of loading if you don't shoot it? But now you got me curious. Does anyone have insight on bullet weld with modern powders and brass?
snowypeakoutdoors
Well-Known Member
Just curious. I have been doing the Redding Body Die and the Lee Collet Die. Isn't the Lee collet die essentially a mandrel?
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Were you using an FL bushing die or regular FL die?
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It is but most just use the collet die which essential just sizes the neck. If you use a body die in conjunction you are in essence FL sizing your brass.
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You've essentially answered your own question. Neck tension changes over time with loaded ammunition. As it changes the Bellar and the neck squeeze whatever is in between them more and more creating a tightening affect we attribute to "cold welding" or "bullet welding". This even happens if the inside of the necks are clean, albeit it takes longer, because you have two metals squeezing against my ne another.I've heard that with military rounds that were older than me but that says a lot. They had to be from Civil War my wife says...
But now you got me curious. Does anyone have insight on bullet weld with modern powders and brass?
Most shooting within 500 little would be noticed. But passed 500 it can be and more noticeably at 1000 or more. For hunting situations I find (or know) my load prior season. Then right before a season starts I will load and go.
That's why you have a lot of people ask all the time why their first 3-4 shots will be under moa and then a 4-6 shot will be a flier. It's not the barrel heating up all the time like most people think. It's 9 times out 10 people shooting older ammunition that has been sitting a while or have factory ammo from a store that's been sitting in a shelf for long time.
misterc01
Well-Known Member
Don't know why not. Consistency is the key. Some Brass prep is kinda standard for ong distance - flash hole clean up and . If all else is done right. I know national record holders who clean the brass, then FL resize, and that is it. Sub MOA at 500-1000 yards.
snowypeakoutdoors
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I just bump the shoulder back a bit with the Redding and then use the collet instead of a bushing die. So I try to size the case without squeezing down the neck and then reopening it with a mandrel.
