300 PRC ADG Brass Issues? Whidden response?

I don't have either PRC so it's not apples to apples but I have been loading for a 300 wm, on the hot side, with ADG brass. Using Redding dies as well. ADG brass is tough stuff. I mean really tough. After 5 firings I noticed that the shoulders were not being pushed back enough even with everything set the same as before. Went down the path of annealing (used a torch and a socket with Templac), bam problem solved.
Another potential culprit could be a carbon ring developing. My SOP after more than 20 rounds on most of my guns is to strip the barrel of carbon and copper. Well on one particular 6.5 cm my pet load started getting sticky bolt lift, ejector marks, crazy stuff I haven't seen before. Invested in a bore scope, and behold a carbon ring in the throat. Worked on the carbon ring and now the problem is gone! Good luck!
 
Most people who experience issues are around 5x and running stouter loads. My ADG and gunwerks brass 6-7 reloads is holding up very well in the primer but the web issue was very problematic. I have whidden custom dies, a modified 300 prc die, and a 6.5 PRC chamber reamer. I have not used the reamer yet as my whidden custom dies are kicking *** and correctly sizing my cases now.
 
This had been thoroughly discussed in this and another thread, don't recall right now exactly and don't have time to find it right now. Cliff notes version, the original print/design is undersized diameter at the base of the web by ~0.002 (ish, don't quote me on that number) doesn't matter the brass, dies, etc. there is a lack of enough clearance for spring back. If you got lucky and your rifle is "loose" at that location, you may not have problems. The solution is as others have posted, open up the chamber slightly at that point. You can chase this all over the place but some very knowledgeable guys have already done that. There is a reamer spec/print I think in that thread that sorts it out. I need to order one to have here but haven't gotten it done yet. Tougher brass (ADG, etc.) might take longer to have problems but will be more impossible to size back down. Some have simply polished the chamber without using a new reamer.
 
Also, in many cases, the problem is severe enough that you will have case head separations or may split sizing dies. Blaming Whidden for Hornady's mistake in design will probably not get you very far. Others have tried. The OEMs have been unresponsive as it usually only surfaces on reloading and they wash their hands of that anyway. The fix is open up the chamber.
 
Guys -- I'm on my 3rd-4th firing of my 300 PRC ADG brass. I started getting really sticky bolt lift on my last range session. Been using a whidden FL bushing sizing die. I called Whidden this morning as I didn't feel like the dies were properly resizing the cases.

In short, Whidden told me the issue isn't their dies but a known issue with 6.5 PRC and 300 PRC brass from ADG. They suggested the problem would be resolved by switching to Lapua (as if thats an easy fix these days).

Curious if anyone here has any thoughts on this? I haven't had any issues out of ADG on my 28 nosler and their reputation has always been good.

LHP
I'm guessing you have a shoulder bump gauge. Measure it before you full size it and after. I had a similar issue and I just resized them again and achieved the dimensions I needed. Also check the measurements on the shoulder and see at what point the bolt sticks then you'll know the dimension you need. Adg is thick so you might have to resize it a couple times. Hope that helps.
 
Its definitely not just ADG brass. I have this issue with Hornady brass in my 6.5 PRC. If I have a piece that closes even snug anymore I toss it as it leads to enough of a pressure spike that it will pop a primer or better yet it will also jam down my ejector. It seems like at least through the first 4 firings my brass runs through the gun very smoothly but over that it starts getting weird and I have taken to checking each multiply fired case in the gun after sizing. New brass and once fired stuff runs like butter through my action.
 
Any of you that are familiar with the 20VT trying to run the original 20VT reamers that were designed for Rem 221 fireball or reformed LC brass and try to run 221 fireball Lapua brass its the same problem you have to have the .200 line about .002 bigger or you get clickers.
 
Get a Redding body die and add it to your sizing routine. It will allow you to get your desired shoulder bump, as well as reducing body diameter.
 
I used Redding dies & Hornady brass on both 300 PRC & 6.5 PRC - Had problems with sticky bolt due to shoulder bump. I had to make sure to size the brass 2-3 times and carefully adjust the sizing die to make sure the shoulder gets bumped properly. Problem solved. Need to check it case after resizing to make sure it feeds - If not bump it again. As mentioned above - The hotter the load, the more of a problem.
 
You can only reduce body dia. by so much no matter the die.
Especially after they have been shot 3 times and work harden and spring back a little more.
 
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