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30-06 question

COWBOYBUCK

Active Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2014
Messages
35
Location
Wisconsin
Does anyone long range hunt with a 30-06 on here? I've been reading some articles and found out that the 30-06 used to be the long range rifle before the .308 came out.
I'm interested because I own a new Remington 700 30-06 CDL and I want to get into long range hunting and shooting.
A lot of the newer ammo like Hornady Superformance, Barnes and others seem to make ammo capable of even 1000 yard shots with a 30-06.
I would appreciate any help. Thank you.
 
I run my 30-06 to 1000yrds on steel often, its a good cartridge to learn long range wind and elevation adjustments. What ever guys are doing with the .308 the 30-06 does it with a little more speed and energy especially in heavier bullets. I don't think a 30-06 is a 1000 yard elk cartridge but with a high BC bullet at 180 or heavier I would shoot a deer sized animal to 1000 with no hesitation. If I'm confident in my wind call. If you want to learn long range shooting its a good one. It allows good barrel life and ease of reloading. If you never shot long range steel and paper, you are a long way from hunting at extended range. But we all started at the bottom..
 
I run my 30-06 to 1000yrds on steel often, its a good cartridge to learn long range wind and elevation adjustments. What ever guys are doing with the .308 the 30-06 does it with a little more speed and energy especially in heavier bullets. I don't think a 30-06 is a 1000 yard elk cartridge but with a high BC bullet at 180 or heavier I would shoot a deer sized animal to 1000 with no hesitation. If I'm confident in my wind call. If you want to learn long range shooting its a good one. It allows good barrel life and ease of reloading. If you never shot long range steel and paper, you are a long way from hunting at extended range. But we all started at the bottom..

I do need to start on paper or steel at the range, I don't have any experience with long range shooting. I want to learn though.
Thank you for your help.
Do you know of any good books that teach about long range shooting?
 
Read all you can about ballistics, like BCs, velocity, energy,wind dope and drop. Wind dope is most important in my opinion. Gravity is constant if you know your elevation. But wind is tricky, it changes quick. Your in a good spot on this forum there are experts in ballistics, reloading and actual hunting and shooting. They will help just ask. And I think the best thing you can do to help you is shoot. And when you get done, shoot some more...
 
I do need to start on paper or steel at the range, I don't have any experience with long range shooting. I want to learn though.
Thank you for your help.
Do you know of any good books that teach about long range shooting?

Heya cowboy... Gohring gave you some really good input about the 30-06. Some believe that the 308 is inherently more accurate... Now I don't know if it is or isn't, but it does use the same bullets, can reach faster speeds than the 308, and you can find great brass. I found an article by an experienced shooter and Reloader that contended that the 30-06 was actually superior accuracy-wise to the 308 and he made some excellent observations. I'll see if I can find it and post it here. I'd just be sure to get a decent recoil pad or if not that, then a brake, because putting lots of rounds down range behind a 06 can get abusive depending on the load/bullets used.

Good luck man! Congrats on the CDL... Beautiful rifles.
 
Read all you can about ballistics, like BCs, velocity, energy,wind dope and drop. Wind dope is most important in my opinion. Gravity is constant if you know your elevation. But wind is tricky, it changes quick. Your in a good spot on this forum there are experts in ballistics, reloading and actual hunting and shooting. They will help just ask. And I think the best thing you can do to help you is shoot. And when you get done, shoot some more...

Sounds good, thank you very much, I appreciate any help.
 
Does anyone long range hunt with a 30-06 on here? I've been reading some articles and found out that the 30-06 used to be the long range rifle before the .308 came out.
I'm interested because I own a new Remington 700 30-06 CDL and I want to get into long range hunting and shooting.
A lot of the newer ammo like Hornady Superformance, Barnes and others seem to make ammo capable of even 1000 yard shots with a 30-06.
I would appreciate any help. Thank you.

Nice prize, and LR is a lot of fun. Many here are giving you some great advise on the long range shooting aspect. However you might want to think about using an off the rake rifle for your long range shooting, or for that matter even trying learn at 1k
Your rifle is most likely a 22" or 24" in barrel length.. I'm thinking 22" and the twist is going to be 1-10 rate; there are much better twist for LR using the .30-06 cartridge... even with today's .30-06 bullets and loads. Actually that's going to be a very unorthodox LR rifle. You've really got everything but the barrel in your rifle as it stands. What your trying to do is stay supersonic to the target for best accuracy. You might want to think about a reasonable re-barrel job, then give them hell on the range.
Good luck
Cheer's
436
 
Nice prize, and LR is a lot of fun. Many here are giving you some great advise on the long range shooting aspect. However you might want to think about using an off the rake rifle for your long range shooting, or for that matter even trying learn at 1k
Your rifle is most likely a 22" or 24" in barrel length.. I'm thinking 22" and the twist is going to be 1-10 rate; there are much better twist for LR using the .30-06 cartridge... even with today's .30-06 bullets and loads. Actually that's going to be a very unorthodox LR rifle. You've really got everything but the barrel in your rifle as it stands. What your trying to do is stay supersonic to the target for best accuracy. You might want to think about a reasonable re-barrel job, then give them hell on the range.
Good luck
Cheer's
436
what twist do you recommend for a 30-06?
 
...Your rifle is most likely a 22" or 24" in barrel length.. I'm thinking 22" and the twist is going to be 1-10 rate; there are much better twist for LR using the .30-06 cartridge.......


Interesting. Could you expound a little on twist rates superior to 1/10 for LR with the 30-06.

Thanks, Shane
 
what twist do you recommend for a 30-06?

That's really going to depend on what bullets and what you want to shoot. Most anything and everything above 168gr. weight works great at 1k If your going with the 155gr like the Palma type bullets that something else, it all about speed there.
Here's a piece of information that might help you.

Twist Rate - The standard rate of twist for factory and arsenal barrels chambered in .30-06 is 1:10". This was established in 1903 with the .30-03 cartridge that used the Krag's 220 gr. round-nose bullet at a very modest muzzle velocity. As the cartridge evolved into the .30-06 with a 150 gr. spitzer bullet, the original rifles had their barrels set back and rechambered with the new short-throat chamber for the lighter bullet, but naturally the rate of twist remained the same. That's ancient history and we don't need to repeat it; what we need is the optimal rate of twist for modern match bullets, and that is the 1:11" twist. This will properly stabilize bullets up to 210 gr. with no concerns and that's as heavy as we're going to consider in this series.

As a fundamental rule, the slower you spin a bullet the more accurate it can be. The reason is simply that bullet jackets aren't perfectly uniform in thickness and a slower rate of spin keeps those tiny variances from altering the bullet's flight. Think of a car tire with a slight imbalance, the faster you go, the more you feel that thumping. The bullet is the same except that because it isn't held by an axle like the tire is, the imbalance will make it wander slightly from its original path. The limitation we face on rate of twist, is that although we want it to be slow for accuracy, we need a certain amount of twist for stability. The 1:11" twist will stabilize all useful match bullets, whereas a 1:12" twist is marginal with some 190 gr. bullets and all of those that are heavier. Accordingly, we can rule out the 1:10" twist as unnecessarily fast, the 1:12" as potentially too slow, and settle on the 1:11" as being just right. Accuracy won't necessarily suffer much with a 1:10", so if you have one, that's fine, if a touch less than optimal. I would avoid the 1:12", however, because it will limit your bullet choices.


Here's something on barrels that also might help.

Length & Contour - Long and heavy is the rule of thumb for a .30-06 barrel. Let's start with length; I consider 28" to be the ideal length for a 30-06 barrel. This is long enough to take full advantage of the powder charge you're burning. Although a 30" barrel will give slightly higher muzzle velocity (about 25 fps) given the heavy contours that are called for, I prefer to keep the length at 28" to reduce fatigue during a string. If you're shooting F-Class or another form of supported shooting, then a 30" barrel can be worth considering, but nothing longer than that for reasons we'll discuss in a Part 2.

There is no reason to use a short (under 28") barrel on a .30-06 when you have the choice; of course, if you're working with an existing barrel that's a different matter, but you won't get quite the performance level of the right-size barrel. When you burn 53 to 60 grains of relatively slow burning powder, you generate a lot of hot gas ready, willing, and able to push the bullet to a high muzzle velocity, you need to give it room to work and that's what happens as the gas pushes the bullet up the length of the barrel. A .30-06 would see increasing muzzle velocity from a barrel as long as 45"; while that's not practical for a host of reasons, don't cheat yourself of a real ballistic advantage by cutting the barrel off too short - they don't grow back.

When picking a barrel contour, weight is your friend. Yes, the .30-06 generates more recoil than a .308, that's just basic physics; shoot the same bullet at a higher MV with more powder and you get more recoil. If you shoot a heavier bullet, as you should, then you get even more recoil. Now, this additional recoil isn't objectionable, even a tired old desk jockey with a bum shoulder (yours truly) can handle it, but a heavy barrel is one of the ways to make it reasonably comfortable. Normally I use the MTU/AMU profile that all the makers offer (Krieger #9), although I have a couple of heavy Palma barrels (Krieger #14) that work out well also - 6.5 lb. of barrel weight is your friend.

These aren't all the answers but I hope they help.

Good luck
Cheer's
436
 
That's really going to depend on what bullets and what you want to shoot. Most anything and everything above 168gr. weight works great at 1k If your going with the 155gr like the Palma type bullets that something else, it all about speed there.
Here's a piece of information that might help you.

Twist Rate - The standard rate of twist for factory and arsenal barrels chambered in .30-06 is 1:10". This was established in 1903 with the .30-03 cartridge that used the Krag's 220 gr. round-nose bullet at a very modest muzzle velocity. As the cartridge evolved into the .30-06 with a 150 gr. spitzer bullet, the original rifles had their barrels set back and rechambered with the new short-throat chamber for the lighter bullet, but naturally the rate of twist remained the same. That's ancient history and we don't need to repeat it; what we need is the optimal rate of twist for modern match bullets, and that is the 1:11" twist. This will properly stabilize bullets up to 210 gr. with no concerns and that's as heavy as we're going to consider in this series.

As a fundamental rule, the slower you spin a bullet the more accurate it can be. The reason is simply that bullet jackets aren't perfectly uniform in thickness and a slower rate of spin keeps those tiny variances from altering the bullet's flight. Think of a car tire with a slight imbalance, the faster you go, the more you feel that thumping. The bullet is the same except that because it isn't held by an axle like the tire is, the imbalance will make it wander slightly from its original path. The limitation we face on rate of twist, is that although we want it to be slow for accuracy, we need a certain amount of twist for stability. The 1:11" twist will stabilize all useful match bullets, whereas a 1:12" twist is marginal with some 190 gr. bullets and all of those that are heavier. Accordingly, we can rule out the 1:10" twist as unnecessarily fast, the 1:12" as potentially too slow, and settle on the 1:11" as being just right. Accuracy won't necessarily suffer much with a 1:10", so if you have one, that's fine, if a touch less than optimal. I would avoid the 1:12", however, because it will limit your bullet choices.


Here's something on barrels that also might help.

Length & Contour - Long and heavy is the rule of thumb for a .30-06 barrel. Let's start with length; I consider 28" to be the ideal length for a 30-06 barrel. This is long enough to take full advantage of the powder charge you're burning. Although a 30" barrel will give slightly higher muzzle velocity (about 25 fps) given the heavy contours that are called for, I prefer to keep the length at 28" to reduce fatigue during a string. If you're shooting F-Class or another form of supported shooting, then a 30" barrel can be worth considering, but nothing longer than that for reasons we'll discuss in a Part 2.

There is no reason to use a short (under 28") barrel on a .30-06 when you have the choice; of course, if you're working with an existing barrel that's a different matter, but you won't get quite the performance level of the right-size barrel. When you burn 53 to 60 grains of relatively slow burning powder, you generate a lot of hot gas ready, willing, and able to push the bullet to a high muzzle velocity, you need to give it room to work and that's what happens as the gas pushes the bullet up the length of the barrel. A .30-06 would see increasing muzzle velocity from a barrel as long as 45"; while that's not practical for a host of reasons, don't cheat yourself of a real ballistic advantage by cutting the barrel off too short - they don't grow back.

When picking a barrel contour, weight is your friend. Yes, the .30-06 generates more recoil than a .308, that's just basic physics; shoot the same bullet at a higher MV with more powder and you get more recoil. If you shoot a heavier bullet, as you should, then you get even more recoil. Now, this additional recoil isn't objectionable, even a tired old desk jockey with a bum shoulder (yours truly) can handle it, but a heavy barrel is one of the ways to make it reasonably comfortable. Normally I use the MTU/AMU profile that all the makers offer (Krieger #9), although I have a couple of heavy Palma barrels (Krieger #14) that work out well also - 6.5 lb. of barrel weight is your friend.

These aren't all the answers but I hope they help.

Good luck
Cheer's
436
If you start throwing heavy .30 bullets with a slower twist than 1-10 your going to be marginal in stability, every bullet manufacturer recommends a 1-10 twist for there heavy bullets. Why on this earth would anyone use anything slower than 1-10 twist with a 30-06 and heavy high BC bullets if given the choice? I have been shooting long range with the 30-06 and never ever questioned the 1-10 twist.
As for barrel length, I have a 24in and it does a fine job of staying supersonic. I know people using 22in and they do fine.. why do most magnum 30 cals run 1-10?..
 
As for the OP, if your rifle is a 1-10 which it most likely is, you will be fine running any bullet from light to heavy. In fact it will be perfect for any bullet that would be considered for long range work.

Never let anybody tell you a 22 or 24in 1-10 twist 30-06 is "unorthodox" that's the funniest thing I have heard for a while..
 
If you start throwing heavy .30 bullets with a slower twist than 1-10 your going to be marginal in stability, every bullet manufacturer recommends a 1-10 twist for there heavy bullets. Why on this earth would anyone use anything slower than 1-10 twist with a 30-06 and heavy high BC bullets if given the choice? I have been shooting long range with the 30-06 and never ever questioned the 1-10 twist.
As for barrel length, I have a 24in and it does a fine job of staying supersonic. I know people using 22in and they do fine.. why do most magnum 30 cals run 1-10?..

I think your reading something else into this.. I like the 1-10 twist for an all around twist rate as well.. it works great with most bullets weights and in both supersonic and subsonic velocity's; where I was using them in those "velocity" arenas the most. It's not just about 1-10 twist here'..., it would also be about barrel length, and bullet weight(s) as I said.. If your going to get as much LR accuracy as possible out of your .30-06 there are many other twist rates and bullet weights the LR guys use, and win with; that's got to say something for the other twist rates ability's. If you feel 1-10 twist and what ever bullet you want, with what ever barrel length you have meets your needs as a 1k rilfe good luck have fun, that's what it's all about.
Cheer's
436
 
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