30-06 duplicate factory load

[asd9055]

What I do is a lot like Baylor243 wrote in post #16: shoot the rifle/factory rounds using a chronograph, note the case used, measure the rounds for headspace, COAL, CBTO, pull the bullets on 5 factory rounds, measure the powder charge on each pulled round, then measure/weigh cartridge case water capacity, make note as close as you can as to the brand/designation of the primer used. (not too hard to figure Federal brand ammo would use Federal brand primers), and of course the brand, type/style, weight of the bullet.
I then set all that up in QuickLoad for the caliber used (you can use whatever computer ballistics program you favor). Then I select the powder(s) using the charge weight/average weight of the pulled rounds till I find the one(s) that meet the velocity/average velocity I have recorded when firing, BUT showing a safe pressure in the program (I don't have any means to determine pressure when firing other than inspection and computer estimation).
Then I look through the reloading manuals in my stack (don't have 'em all) to compare.
Lately, after following Muddyboots on crimping with the Lee Factory Crimp, using calipers, I measure the crimp on a factory loaded round and apply this to my handloads.
When I started all this "Homework", the price of gas was as now or higher. Saved trips to the range.

Great detective work!

 

[jdyoung]

Great detective work!

thanks, maybe too much time on my hands but it worked.

 

[alaska]

I tune my loads for guns and their bullets. I reload for 3 different family 30-06s. They are all Remington 742s. My brother and nephew like the Hornady 150 SSTs. There is 1/2 grain difference of H414 for their best load. Would suggest load testing to get your best results. Factory ammo loads typically cannot get the same accuracy as handloads.

Rem 742 always received IMR 4895 in 30-06 loaded like M1 Garand loads of 47.2 with 175/180 and RCBS Small Base Sizer Die and Lee Factory Crimp Die.