264 win mag headspace question/problem

I didn't read down through the responses. When I had that trouble I ran the cases through the die and checked the shoulder. Sometimes it would take three or four times through the die before they would fit the action easily.
 
I actually have the willis die already. I guess I can try that. I did measure above the belt but I was only seeing .0005 to .001 difference. unless that is enough to make it tight.
You can just drop them in the Willis die to make sure they drop in freely all the way
 
I don't want to derail this thread with a argument about Redding Competition shell holders but you are incorrect. A standard shell holder is .125 in height. The Redding Competition Shell holders start at .127 in height which is .002 less sizing. Meaning that the case goes into the die .002 less than a standard shell holder. They go from .127 to .135 which is .010 taller than a standard shell holder.
Now the reason for the confusion is that the directions state that you start with the .010 shell holder which is the tallest and if you want more sizing you go the the next lowest but at no time do they size as much as a standard shell holder that is .125 tall.
There are many threads that have been derailed with this subject and I hope this is not the case here.
Thank you, not here to argue and we can all learn something when open to it.
Went and measured, they are as you describe. One weird line in the instructions messed me up 6-7 years ago when I bought them.
 
+10 to display of civility in this thread.

I wish Redding would indeed produce exactly the shell holder doverpack12 is envisioning. Probably in .001 increments to around 5 thousand short. I think they would sell some. Now that many of us put our own guns together and decide for "tight" headspacing, only to later discover we got it a little too tight and cannot resize with perfection.

The solution is indeed to hone off a sacrificial shellholder. In the case of the belted mags, the Larry Willis collet reformer is also useful, if the problem is the web beyond the belt. I have heard of guys turning a few thou off the reloading die, but the shell holder is easier for the average guy.

Tip: 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper on a flat surface (a few drops of water underneath will hold it in place with surface tension) and then a squirt of wd-40 on the abrasive side. Use a figure of 8 motion, reversing after every 10 or so "8's". Measure frequently, as this will take material off pretty fast.

If you screw up, its just a $5 shell holder......
 
Redding shell holder sets result in more sizing.
If you start with the +.010 then yes, moving to the next four shorter shell holders results in more sizing. But as previously mentioned nothing sizes more than a standard shell holder because all the comp shell holders are + heights.

Your description is the correct "book" way to use the shell holder set - starting with the tallest one and moving to the shorter ones. But it sounds like the OP is already at the standard (shortest) holder and needs more sizing still.

I wish Redding would indeed produce exactly the shell holder doverpack12 is envisioning.
I think that too some times, then I think about the potential for abuse and does Redding want to be selling a tool capable of putting so much headspace gap into a sized case that at best the primer strike doesn't light the candle, and at worst induces a case failure. Someone who stones a shell holder at least hopefully has some concept of what they're doing.
 
IF you can verify headspace from someone who has gauges then I'd try that. If no one has them then pm me if you want to? I only had 1 264wm to reload for and used win super-x brass for about 40 years. Now I have 3, but haven't checked any against each other. mod70 pre'64, post '64 and a savage 110 build with McGowen barrel. I headspace factory and my build guns. Maybe you can get more pics of brass of verified fired brass in that gun. I'm thinking about getting a Willis die also for checking belted mags. 1 can never have enough tools for the job!
 
Try a few shims under the case when sizing next time, Feeler gauges work, to see how much you need to remove from the shell holder before you start sanding on it. And sneak the cases before you size them.

That should have said anneal not sneak...darn typos.
 
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Cody is correct in that you can take a few Thousands off the face of the shell holder with either emory or a stone. I usually turn the shell holder upside down on a very flat surface and use fine emory paper. The Redding Competition shell holders only help with less sizing not more so they would not work in your case where you need more sizing or less headspace either way you want to say it.
If you go the hand lapping route, the something really flat can be a piece of glass. The thicker the better. I've bought some small pieces of thick glass from mcmaster.com just for this sort of use.

EDIT: I see that someone suggested using a Figure-8 motion. Take that to mean that it is the ONLY motion to use. Swap hands often. The idea is to take the shell holder down evenly and this motion is the best way to do that.
 
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Update, had the work machinists take off just enough material which allowed me to bump the shoulder an extra .002 which is apparently all i needed. Closes smooth and easy now. Willis die took the bulge out of the case but did not fix the issue.
 
Reloading for a buddys 264 win mag. Full disclosure it has an aftermarket barrel on a 700 action and stock. All i have for brass is what id assume to be shot through it already, and no factory new brass. My rcbs fl resizing die is as low as it goes but with the sharpie trick i get marks on the shoulder and a tighter than preferred bolt closing. A couple cases are 1-2 thou shorter(hornady measuring tools) and the bolt closes with ease. But the majority close with some resist on the bolt. More than id like to feel. The die cant go any lower tho. Also all the cases measure 2.488. I dont want to assume it has a tight headspace(i dont have a guage) but given the aftermarket barrel id obviously lean that way. Also the solid ring at the top of the should is from the measuring tool.
Question, are you lubing the inside of the case neck when (if) your expander ball exits the case? I had a similar issue and after much back and forth I discovered the expander ball was pulling the neck and causing a similar issue. I also took an old feeler gauge I had and cut the desired thickness and place inside the base of the shell holder contacting the bottom of the case, to do the same as some suggest by sanding down the top of the shell holder. Try sizing a case without the expander ball and see if the case will chamber, this is a quick check for what I am describing. Good luck.
 

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