So I have a Tikka CTR and a new Weatherby Accuguard.
I have been using an HD5 on the Tikka, but just pulled it off to put that on the Accuguard, and a new HST on the Tikka.
I am taking a course where shooting will eventually be out to 1100 yards. So I am thinking of replacing the rail on the Tikka with a 20 MOA one, and also putting the same on the Accuguard.
But when I look at the numbers, I can't figure out how to tell if this is a good idea or not. It appears that it is possible that with a 20 MOA rail I might have to bottom out one or both scopes to get them on at 100 (where I want to have my base zero).
On the Tikka, I have mounted the HST on the rail it came with, so as soon as I recover from surgery, I can go shoot it with the stock rail and I'll know whether it will work or not. No problem.
But on the Accuguard....it seems I would have to buy a rail, mount the scope, see how many MOA I had to use to get to a 100 yard zero (either up or down), and potentially have to eat the cost of a rail that won't work for me, so that's $60 tossed away, potentially, when I have to go buy a different rail.
Am I missing something here, is there a better way to tell?
Just an example....the HD5 on my Winchester took like 9 MOA up to get to center at 100, IIRC. The Tikka took 2.
If the Accuguard took, say 5 down, lets say. I measured my HD5, it has 75 MOA top to bottom. So 5 down would mean I'd only have 27.5 left on the downside. If I put a 20 MOA rail, then I'd be only 7.5 MOA from the bottom, which I understand is a bad thing?
And if it took, say 15, I would not make a 100 yard zero at all, and even shooting a 200 yard zero, I would be somewhere near the bottom of the adjustment range most of the time.
How do you guys determine what rail to put on without just buy, trying and tossing the cash. Some of these rails are well over $100, and it seems there must be a better way I just don't know about than risking just throwing them away.
Thanks!
I have been using an HD5 on the Tikka, but just pulled it off to put that on the Accuguard, and a new HST on the Tikka.
I am taking a course where shooting will eventually be out to 1100 yards. So I am thinking of replacing the rail on the Tikka with a 20 MOA one, and also putting the same on the Accuguard.
But when I look at the numbers, I can't figure out how to tell if this is a good idea or not. It appears that it is possible that with a 20 MOA rail I might have to bottom out one or both scopes to get them on at 100 (where I want to have my base zero).
On the Tikka, I have mounted the HST on the rail it came with, so as soon as I recover from surgery, I can go shoot it with the stock rail and I'll know whether it will work or not. No problem.
But on the Accuguard....it seems I would have to buy a rail, mount the scope, see how many MOA I had to use to get to a 100 yard zero (either up or down), and potentially have to eat the cost of a rail that won't work for me, so that's $60 tossed away, potentially, when I have to go buy a different rail.
Am I missing something here, is there a better way to tell?
Just an example....the HD5 on my Winchester took like 9 MOA up to get to center at 100, IIRC. The Tikka took 2.
If the Accuguard took, say 5 down, lets say. I measured my HD5, it has 75 MOA top to bottom. So 5 down would mean I'd only have 27.5 left on the downside. If I put a 20 MOA rail, then I'd be only 7.5 MOA from the bottom, which I understand is a bad thing?
And if it took, say 15, I would not make a 100 yard zero at all, and even shooting a 200 yard zero, I would be somewhere near the bottom of the adjustment range most of the time.
How do you guys determine what rail to put on without just buy, trying and tossing the cash. Some of these rails are well over $100, and it seems there must be a better way I just don't know about than risking just throwing them away.
Thanks!