• If you are being asked to change your password, and unsure how to do it, follow these instructions. Click here

+20 moa base

Caleb85

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 30, 2013
Messages
1,092
Location
Northwest, Missouri
Ok so here is the deal..I was shooting at my steel range and I went to shoot at the 1080 yard plate and my software called for 31 MOA of elevation and I ran out a 23 moa. So last night I installed a 20 MOA base and sited back in; went to shoot again and ran out at 23 moa again !! I'm new to these bases ..am I not setting it up right ? Need some advice. .I had to hold over about 2 foot on the steel and I would hit it every time so I know that I need that extra 20 inches....thank.
 
Ok so here is the deal..I was shooting at my steel range and I went to shoot at the 1080 yard plate and my software called for 31 MOA of elevation and I ran out a 23 moa. So last night I installed a 20 MOA base and sited back in; went to shoot again and ran out at 23 moa again !! I'm new to these bases ..am I not setting it up right ? Need some advice. .I had to hold over about 2 foot on the steel and I would hit it every time so I know that I need that extra 20 inches....thank.
What scope and what range of adjustment does it have?
My scopes have more than 23MoA adjustment, so unless we know the amount you have, we can't calculate the required base height.
One question, did you re-centre the reticle before you put the scope on the new rail?

Cheers.
gun)
 
Make me wonder if they slipped you a +0 base on accident. Maybe call manufacture and get some measurements.
 
Pretty sure you got a 0 rail by mistake.

You don't say what rifle and chambering.
 
7mm sendero with a leupold vx3 6.5-20x50mmLR. Blackhawk 20 MOA rail with leupold PRW 30 MM medium or lows I can't remember. And no I did center the scope back out when I put it on.
 
A 20 MOA rail on a Remington 700 is obviously thicker at the back.

I don't have Blackhawk brand but most are marked on the side or bottom.

It is possible to have them marked wrong.
 
I believe your scope has a little over 90 MOA adjustment, top to bottom. 45 up - 45 down from center.
With your reticle centered and a 20 MOA rail you should easily have 65 MOA of adjustment available. That would, of course, take you into the area of the glass that is less than perfect. Roll your elevation turret to the bottom. Turn it up 20 MOA and see if it will bore sight at that setting. Then see where it shoots. Unless you've got that 20 MOA rail on backwards you should be about five or ten inches high at 100 yards. Maybe a little more, maybe a little less. But I'd expect you to be on paper. If you're not on paper, find a small target (piece of stick, small weed, etc.) in the berm and have someone watch through a spotting scope and have them tell you what your error is. Adjust the scope to correct the error, record the adjustment, and determine where in the range of adjustment you are when you're on target. That way you'll know precisely how much adjustment you have for come up at long range.
If you can't get enough elevation (45+20=60 MOA x 10 = about 600 inches at 1K) out your set up with that method you've either got a scope that missed quality control before it left the factory or they sent you the wrong rail.
 
That is a bit odd. I would expect with the reticle centred and fitted to the rifle it should be roughly zero at 100 yards. So you should have a similar number of clicks up/down. My browning is not right and uses 1 turn of up travel to zero at 100 yards which is the exact opposite of what I want.
 
I believe your scope has a little over 90 MOA adjustment, top to bottom. 45 up - 45 down from center.
With your reticle centered and a 20 MOA rail you should easily have 65 MOA of adjustment available. That would, of course, take you into the area of the glass that is less than perfect. Roll your elevation turret to the bottom. Turn it up 20 MOA and see if it will bore sight at that setting. Then see where it shoots. Unless you've got that 20 MOA rail on backwards you should be about five or ten inches high at 100 yards. Maybe a little more, maybe a little less. But I'd expect you to be on paper. If you're not on paper, find a small target (piece of stick, small weed, etc.) in the berm and have someone watch through a spotting scope and have them tell you what your error is. Adjust the scope to correct the error, record the adjustment, and determine where in the range of adjustment you are when you're on target. That way you'll know precisely how much adjustment you have for come up at long range.
If you can't get enough elevation (45+20=60 MOA x 10 = about 600 inches at 1K) out your set up with that method you've either got a scope that missed quality control before it left the factory or they sent you the wrong rail.

I came up from the bottom 20 MOA and at 100 yards that put me about 2 foot below the target. I bore sighted it and where it put me on target, I tried to go up to 32 moa (1000 yard data) and I still ran out at 23. Here's a picture of the setup
 

Attachments

  • 20140731_083300.jpg
    20140731_083300.jpg
    219.4 KB · Views: 134
It does not look 20 MOA to me. Pictures are deceiving of course.

Also, try reversing the rings front to back.

It would be a more stable installation if you move your rings closer to the bells of the scope.
 
I'm with Fred I would get those rings closer to the bells it doesn't look like a 20 moa rail also is that as low as you can go with the scope it looks high
 
Warning! This thread is more than 11 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top