15AMP vs 20AMP circuit for reloading room?

[ronstone09]

I'm working on the layout for a full remodel of my reloading room. I'm going to put in 7-8 outlets and really trying to talk myself into or out of 20AMP. At this time I only reload on a single stage press and about the only thing that I need power for is the Chargemaster, maybe the vacuum to clean up, maybe a desk lamp in the fly tying area- nothing that draws a lot of amps. Is there anything reloading related that necessitates 20AMP? This is in a finished basement, dedicated room and I will not be running power tools. I do all of my trimming and tumbling in the garage. Just wondering if it's worth the expense and the slightly bigger hassle of pulling the bigger wires.

I'll post some before and after when it's done. Going to have an 8' bench counter height above 6' of cabinets. Outlets at the right height. I put in 9 LED cans in a space that is only like 9' x 13' so it's like being in daylight.

Case prep tool, vacuum, light for detail,chargemaster, don sell yourself short on outlets !

 

[Tree Farmer]

I've never regretted 12/2 wire, more outlets than I thought I needed and, when in doubt or for the unknown future, more circuits.

 

[35 Whelen]

I would have the outlets and lights on separate circuits and but in a lot of outlets, I have worked it to many place were there was not enough outlets and the house I live in now could use more. My Dad all ways said better to go bigger, you never know what you may need down the road. To friends of ours that have their own electric businesses said the same thing.

 

[Rflshootr]

Just go with the 20 amp and don't look back. And if you have room in the breaker box for 2 circuits, I'd split the number of receptacles into 2 separate circuits. The extra cost is hardly anything for some 12 wire and an extra breaker. Pay once, cry once.

 

[flylo]

Wait till you get a 20+ gallon brass tumbler like mine & it's 3phase, then you'll wish for more power!

 

[Hcollier]

My, we have an electrician's thread on the forum. When buying a gun safe the advise always is get bigger than you think you'll need because the future will require it. Same with this scenario. Use the 12 gauge wire. It ain't that difficult to work with and you have a 20 amp circuit. My two cents.

 

[jpndave]

There is unsafe/incorrect/possibly illegal advise previously posted. Electrical work is not rocket science but it can be dangerous.

Run the 12-2 wire with correct 20A breakers. Outlets are acceptable to use 15A on a 20A circuit but true 20A aren't that expensive and more durable. This is YOUR room so do it right and enjoy it.

14-3 (or 12-3 or any - 3) wire attached to two single pole breakers is dangerously over loading the neutral (white) wire you have a potential for 30A (15A x 2) on single neutral. Red and black = two hots to a single white neutral.

Breakers need to be sized to protect the wire attached to them. A 15A breaker with 12ga wire is safe but not needed (unless we start talking really long lengths) and not cost effective. 20A on a 14ga is dangerous and wrong.

 

[Bill Nieters]

There is unsafe/incorrect/possibly illegal advise previously posted. Electrical work is not rocket science but it can be dangerous.

Run the 12-2 wire with correct 20A breakers. Outlets are acceptable to use 15A on a 20A circuit but true 20A aren't that expensive and more durable. This is YOUR room so do it right and enjoy it.

14-3 (or 12-3 or any - 3) wire attached to two single pole breakers is dangerously over loading the neutral (white) wire you have a potential for 30A (15A x 2) on single neutral. Red and black = two hots to a single white neutral.

Breakers need to be sized to protect the wire attached to them. A 15A breaker with 12ga wire is safe but not needed (unless we start talking really long lengths) and not cost effective. 20A on a 14ga is dangerous and wrong.

Uh no running a 14/3 (or 12/3) is not dangerously overloading the neutral. In reality if you have 15amps on each hot leg you'll measure zero amps on the neutral. With current national electrical code 3-conductor usage for circuits in a home have been ruled out because of the need for arc fault breakers as you cannot share neutrals while using two separate arc fault breakers. Shared neutral circuit wiring must also be done with a 2-pole breaker. 40 years of experience licensed master electrician and electrical contractor in MN

 

[mwkelso]

Another thought that the OP may want to ask would be to his insurance company... If you perform your own electrical without proper inspection and it causes a catastrophic event, aka an electrical fire, will they still cover you?
We had a similar event on a restore project that insurance wouldn't cover because the work was not inspected and completed by a licensed company.

Again, just a thought. Most of us know how expensive a licensed electrician can be. Few of us know how much more expensive it can be without one.

 

[jpndave]

Uh no running a 14/3 (or 12/3) is not dangerously overloading the neutral. In reality if you have 15amps on each hot leg you'll measure zero amps on the neutral. With current national electrical code 3-conductor usage for circuits in a home have been ruled out because of the need for arc fault breakers as you cannot share neutrals while using two separate arc fault breakers. Shared neutral circuit wiring must also be done with a 2-pole breaker. 40 years of experience licensed master electrician

That is only correct if you are talking about a 220V circuit using both opposing legs of the hot. 220V does return on the opposite leg. In a single leg it goes back on the neutral. If the neutral isn't returning the power you have 220V. That's a whole different potential problem.

I am also a professional contractor with decades of experience. I don't want to get in a big argument but that information is not accurate.

 

[Bill Nieters]

That is only correct if you are talking about a 220V circuit using both opposing legs of the hot. 220V does return on the opposite leg. In a single leg it goes back on the neutral. If the neutral isn't returning the power you have 220V. That's a whole different potential problem.

I am also a professional contractor with decades of experience. I don't want to get in a big argument but that information is not accurate.

Sorry but it doesn't work that way. The neutral current is zero amps if both hot legs are 15. Try it with an ammeter and report back to me

 

[Bill Nieters]

That is only correct if you are talking about a 220V circuit using both opposing legs of the hot. 220V does return on the opposite leg. In a single leg it goes back on the neutral. If the neutral isn't returning the power you have 220V. That's a whole different potential problem.

I am also a professional contractor with decades of experience. I don't want to get in a big argument but that information is not accurate.

https://www.jadelearning.com/blog/multiwire-branch-circuits-nec-210-4/

 

[Rhovee]

Bill is correct. In a 240v (2) 120v circuits on a multi wire branch circuit (14/3)-(12/3) the neutral only carries the unbalanced load between the two phases. What jpndave is referring to is if you put both wires on the same phase. Not 2 breakers in line with each other or a two pole breaker. And yes I am a licensed master electrician/contractor in Washington state.

 

[mwkelso]

That is only correct if you are talking about a 220V circuit using both opposing legs of the hot. 220V does return on the opposite leg. In a single leg it goes back on the neutral. If the neutral isn't returning the power you have 220V. That's a whole different potential problem.

I am also a professional contractor with decades of experience. I don't want to get in a big argument but that information is not accurate.

Sorry but it doesn't work that way. The neutral current is zero amps if both hot legs are 15. Try it with an ammeter and report back to me

It's 220/240v if the hot legs are coming off opposite bus bars in the panel. Otherwise they are just two legs of 110/120v operating in parallel. It would be absolutely no different that connecting 2 wires to a single pole 110/120v wire; they are both supplied by the same line in parallel. Electrical currents work in sine waves. 220v on opposite busses are opposite sine waves. The amperage through the lines is determined by the breaker, not by the amount of wiring.