110 FP or go custom

[jsthntn247]

I have a Savage 7mm with wood stock and thin barrel. I am not crazy about the accutrigger and the bolt release on the trigger guard I would like to up grade this and am considering two options

1. Buy a slightly used 110fp 7 mag for $300 and add a aftermarket recoil lug 28$ and Duramaxx stock 120$- break $55- thread and index brake $100= $603. I can sell my gun for 450 and cost to me would be $153. I would also bed the stock myself in Devcon which I already have.

2. Order a Criterion barrel $250 -thread for brake $70- cost of brake $55- recoil lug $28 - Stockade money saver stock $175- Gunsmith fee $100- Use my own action and bed stock myself. Total cost to me = $678

This gun is to be used strictly for hunting up to 600 yards. Let me know if there is anything I missed. I don't have a vise or any tools to take the barrel off myself

 

[rscott5028]

Of the 2 things you said you don't like, which option listed best addresses those concerns?

Bolt release sounds trivial...

What don't you like about the Accu-trigger?
Some like it. Some don't. They are known to have problems if you pull a little to the side.

How does the gun shoot?

It sounds like you just want a project. ...which is aok.

If yours is worth $450 and you're willing to spend $678, then sell yours and get the 111LRH.

Do you have good optics?

-- richard

 

[jsthntn247]

The gun I have shoots sub moa at 100 with my handloads. When I get out past 300, groups open up. I have a feeling it has to do with the wood stock and I have heard that their arn't any aftermarket stocks that fit the triiger guard bolt release models. I'm not sure if this is true or not. I would also like a muzzle brake and it seems that all the brakes are for barrel's allot bigger than factory ones.

 

[rscott5028]

Perhaps someone in this forum can specifically address the stock question about the bolt release? I'm sure stockysstocks.com can answer that question if you call them.

I would not expect the stock to have a disproportionate affect at 300 yds.

Groups opening up at 300 yds might also be due to (a) wind, (b) inconsistent muzzle velocity, or (c) quality/magnification of your optics.

If you're on a budget, then you should nail down the cause first in order to decide what to fix.

e.g. You might sell your rifle and get the 111LRH as I suggested which is by all accounts a very accurate rifle and includes the desired muzzle brake. But, if your optics aren't up to it, then you won't "see" the difference. ...pun intended.

Alternatively, a minor modifcation to your component selection and reloading methods may cost almost nothing and get you where you need to be.

-- richard

 

[jsthntn247]

Thanks Richard for your help on this. I have a 6.5-20x50 Vortex scope on the current gun. I've tried bullets from Nosler, Hornady, and Sierra ranging from 140-162 along with 4 different powders. No matter the combo, I seem to only be able to get around .75 moa. I've played with seating depth, neck tension, and different primers and can't get any better. For 90% of hunting situations, .75" groups work, but I have one spot to hunt where I can take shots up to 1,000 yards. I killed a 150" whitetail on this place last year and saw bigger. I really don't have any extra money to spend on another gun but I would like to be able to shoot MOA out to 600 for the least amount of change.

 

[rscott5028]

I've seen good reviews for that scope, but haven't used one.

Have you chronied your loads?

Have you tried Berger 168's?

...not trying to talk you out of anything. But, curious.

What do you mean when you say that groups open up at 300 yds?

-- richard

 

[youngbuck]

I have that exact scope on a 700 in 7mag shooting 162 A-max over H1000. I tried a couple different powders, but the H1000 has the lowes ES by far. It was an old gun my dad wanted to "update". After some copper solvent the groups shrunk up to 1/2 moa or better most days. We were right at 1MOA before we cleaned out the copper.

 

[Oliveralan]

Building with your current gun sounds like a good idea. I would definitely get a custom barrel (shilen, criterion, mcgowen, LW) prefit, and an aftermarket stock, sell your stock and barrel to recoup some of that cost, then have it bedded/ DIY if you know how...
The choate tactical stock is surprisingly good, a B&C tactical medalist will also work well.

You do realize there are a ton more costs before you can even think about confidently shooting an animal at 600yards, even more at 1000. This requires hundreds if not thousands of rounds of experience doping the wind, rangefinder, reliable optics, ballistics program and weather station (such as a kestrel), and the list goes on. It is not a very budget friendly sport. It is a lot of fun however!

 

[jsthntn247]

Funny that you mention ES. The only loads that seem to shoot in this rifle are ones with high ES. I was getting 3160 with a 162 sst and 69.5gr of H-100. It only had an E.S. of 6 fps, but I never could get it to group consistentlly, I shot this morning with 150 ballistic tips and re22. 65 grains gave me 3040 fps and groups between .5 and .75 moa for 5 shot group but an E.S. of 75 fps. As far as practicing, I bought a .223 stevens, reinforced and bedded the stock. I practice doping the wind and trigger pull just about every weekend. I can wear my 8" target out all day long at 600 with it. If I could ever get a consistent load, I plan on shooting this gun allot. Bill Customs in Shelby Ms, is right down the road from where I work, if I do get a new stock, barrel, and brake, I plan on letting him put everything together.