Anneal sized brass?

Hikinghunter

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Starting to anneal every firing to help with SD. I have some virgin Peterson brass I loaded, then pulled bullets from. Thinking I might as well anneal it? It hasn't been fired, but it has been sized, thus work-hardened.

Any reason not to? I'm assuming you can't over-anneal as long as you don't over-heat.
 
A few reasons for myself not to anneal, one is that good loading and tuning practices will give me low SD without annealing.
Annealing softens brass and makes it more difficult to apply bullet hold, Some combinations prefer plenty of bullet.
New brass is already annealed.
Annealing has never improved a target of mine although softening brass has ruined a few targets.
After acquiring a brass history without annealing I have data to compare annealed versus non annealed.
 
You didn't mention what case portions you're annealing. I assume just the necks, and I wouldn't bother in this case.
I do a deep body dip anneal before fire forming, so that cases form as fast as possible.
No more than partial neck sizing until fully formed.
 
id run expander mandrel down em and see how they feel , and if they still measure good and shoulder datum hasnt moved and only the neck moved , id fill em and get your fire forming on

if they were a hard pull and you think you changed em , ya may have to full size again ( and in that case yeah id anneal and start over )
 
The only virgin brass I anneal are those that will be fire formed to AI or other improved cases that blow the shoulder out.
I do not FL size this brass again until it has been fired 3 times with only neck sizing, it gets another anneal and then FL sized from that dimension.
I will also say, some brass brands are just not worth the time to anneal.

Cheers.
 
I annealing just below the shoulder after first firing. First off I work my cases over to set up to use. Most of the time I find that the necks are under what I use to set my neck tension to begain with. So I use a mandrel to expand the neck. Even with reducing the neck to another caliber. I cut my cases to length, cut for thickness, then size the neck down to what I want. Fire once and anneal after that. I do check my length to the shoulder. I also set up and recheck my case length to besure they are all the same. For the first few firing I only neck sizes. Allowing the shoulder to move out.
 
Starting to anneal every firing to help with SD. I have some virgin Peterson brass I loaded, then pulled bullets from. Thinking I might as well anneal it? It hasn't been fired, but it has been sized, thus work-hardened.

Any reason not to? I'm assuming you can't over-anneal as long
Just load and shoot it ! Then the hardening begins . 👍
 
A few reasons for myself not to anneal, one is that good loading and tuning practices will give me low SD without annealing.
Annealing softens brass and makes it more difficult to apply bullet hold, Some combinations prefer plenty of bullet.
New brass is already annealed.
Annealing has never improved a target of mine although softening brass has ruined a few targets.
After acquiring a brass history without annealing I have data to compare annealed versus non annealed.
Wow 😮 who would of thought all us guys shooting and annealing our brass everytime are well - Silly 😜 I guess 🤷‍♂️
AMP annealer for Sale ! Not needed 🤪
Thanks Bitter 👍
 
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Wow 😮 who would of thought all us guys shooting and annealing our brass everytime are well - Dumb I guess 🤷‍♂️
AMP annealer for Sale ! Not needed 🤪
Thanks Bitter 👍
I'm guessing you missed this part. vv

[Any reason not to? ]

[A few reasons for myself not to anneal]
 
Wow 😮 who would of thought all us guys shooting and annealing our brass everytime are well - Dumb I guess 🤷‍♂️
AMP annealer for Sale ! Not needed 🤪
Thanks Bitter 👍
I'm not calling anyone dumb, whatever works for you is fine with me. As above I just answered the question with what I see in my little program.
Next time perhaps I'll check with you first to ensure my thoughts align with yours before I offer any.
B
 
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