Neck sizing and case getting harder to pull out?

these will help with your consistency , they let you feel hard contact

im not sure if these are the correct ones for your WSM , you would wanna verify

they will seem expensive but they fit alot of cases , its not like you need to buy one for every cartridge , i picked up this kit and ,the .008 fits my 7mm rm and the .006 fits the rum or vise versa

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/3...m-300-winchester-magnum-338-winchester-magnum

Competition Shellholder Sets
Makes every die a custom die!

compshellsets.jpg
Now you can control headspace. The new Redding Competition Shellholders are packaged in five piece sets in .002" increments (+.002", +.004". +.006", +.008" and +.010"). Each shellholder has a distinct black oxide finish and is clearly marked to indicate the amount it will decrease case-to-chamber headspace. You can now easily adjust the shoulder bump to customize cases to your specific chamber.
 
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Thanks for the replies. I did a bit of reading on the Redding Boss press. Sounds like I can get more consistant resizing with this one and I like the idea of those redding shell holders to bump the shoulders, as opposed to screwing down the die. Would I have to also buy new dies, or will my lee dies work just fine in that press? I also use the easy change bushings for the lee press I have...makes switching dies nice...will I be able to use all of those in that redding boss press, or am I gonna need to buy new stuff?

On the cases that have headspace a little smaller than the others...I should have clarified my question better...my bad. I plan on shooting those to blow them back out. My question is should I shoot those as "foulers" only, or should I include them in my incremental powder charges as I work up to max load pressures and therefore use the data I get (ie. FPS, max load reached, etc.). I would rather be as consistent as possible, but I don't know if those changes in headspace are really that much of a problem if all I'm doing is trying to determine the max load and what powder charges group better. If the headspace differences will make that much of a difference, I'll just shoot em as foulers, or let my kid shoot them for fun until I can get them bumped back to the same headspace as the others.

Had one more thing happen. I bought that hornady comparator and anvil to attach to my cabelas digital caliper. I measured the brass for headspace, then accidentally dropped it on the floor after I did all the measurements. The anvil and the comparator bumped off. I then screwed them both on again. I noticed that when I screwed them on they didn't quite match up flush towards each other when I pushed the caliper closed so I could zero. When I loosened the thumb screw on the comparator I was able to get it squared again to the anvil. however, too much pressure on the thumb screw and it wouldn't square up between the two. I caught this because I measured the headspace on a shell I knew had previously had a reading of 1.741, but now it was off and since the shell had not been changed I figured it was my measuring tool...after inspecting the tool I found the anvil and comparator were not squared to each other, so the shell was a bit skewed when measuring. That got me thinking, if that tool is inconsistant, or gets a thumb screw too tight it will make my measurements off by a few thousands. Is there a better tool I should be using, or do I just need to make sure that anvil and comparator are squared before each shell I measure?

thx for the help.
 
That got me thinking, if that tool is inconsistant, or gets a thumb screw too tight it will make my measurements off by a few thousands.

Now you are seeing the light !!
Our data is only as good as the tools and how we use them. Make sure you measure with the same force every time as you can take 5 measurements and get 5 different readings. Close the caliper on the comparator getting zero before you tighten the brass screw. I have also found that pushing the caliper head against a surface tends to yield more consistent results than tightening it with the thumb wheel. I also upgraded to a Mitutoyo caliper but only use it when I get really serious(LOL) as opposed to a $20 Hong Kong Freight model(although some reviews rate it pretty good). My cheap Hornady caliper would stray from zero up to 0.002 when closing repeartedly and eat batteries so I canned it.
Note in the photo how I'm pressing the caliper against the cabinet instead of using the thumb wheel. Give it a try.
thumbnail (28).jpg
 
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Would I have to also buy new dies, or will my lee dies work just fine in that press? I also use the easy change bushings for the lee press

The Lee dies will work in a Redding press, but you wont be able to use the quick-change bushings. I use Hornady Sure-Loc die locking rings for my dies in the "Boss" press. Makes die adjustment very easy. I'm partial to Redding dies, but I have a set of Lee dies for a .338-06 that work just as well. If you're just trying to find what your "Max" load/"Max" pressure is I would think you're fine firing the cases with slightly "off" headspace. If you were down to the "fine tuning" I would use cases that are as uniform as possible for that. That's just me though....
 
Ok, thanks Deputy819. What about the RCBS Rockchucker press and using LEE dies and LEE bushings in that press? I read on another thread that the RCBS Rockchucker and the Redding Boss are good choices and the price points are close enough to each other...I have some rewards points at cabelas and they sell that RCBS Rockchucker, but not the redding.
 
What about the RCBS Rockchucker press and using LEE dies and LEE bushings in that press?

You're welcome. I'm certainly no expert, but I've sure learned A LOT from a bunch of great guys on this site with A LOT more experience than me. I like to try and pay it forward when and where I can. A couple guys I work with and speak with on this site have the Rockchucker Press and they like it quite a bit. I have no personal experience with that particular press. Cant say for certain if the Lee quick change bushings would work with it, but I doubt it if it's similar to the Redding Boss.
 
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For accuracy and reliability consistency is key. The most accurate rifles in the world today are running on full length sized brass and the brass lasts long enough to wear out the barrels. Do the same thing every time. Full length size the brass every time. Get the tools learn how to measure the cases and understand what your trying to do. Do not follow the instructions on the dies, thats far outdated info to make something function in every gun. Be smarter than that and size the cases to fit YOUR chamber. If you have an odd chamber or a sloppy chamber send some fired brass to Whidden and get a die made to fit your rifle. Accuracy and reliably will improve and brass will last just about forever.
 
the challenger will still make a good seater as a separate operation

the rcbs is a good solid press , you can get used ones for under a hundred bucks .. besides, it sounds like you have all the accessories already.. check your classifieds

ebay has at least 15 auctions starting at 50 +20 shipping , and the buy it nows are 125 + 20 shipping
 
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Make sure you give the One Shot time to dry. It is what I use.
Same here. Tried about all of the others and really like the One Shot.

Usually I'll throw the brass in a ziploc, spray it good, shake it, spray it again, shake it and repeat.

No need to drown it, just make sure they all get a good coating.
 
You're welcome. I'm certainly no expert, but I've sure learned A LOT from a bunch of great guys on this site with A LOT more experience than me. I like to try and pay it forward when and where I can. A couple guys I work with and speak with on this site have the Rockchucker Press and they like it quite a bit. I have no personal experience with that particular press. Cant say for certain if the Lee quick change bushings would work with it, but I doubt it if it's similar to the Redding Boss.
They will not, they only work wth the lee system.

The dies will however work pretty well universally with all the major manufacturers presses.
 
For accuracy and reliability consistency is key. The most accurate rifles in the world today are running on full length sized brass and the brass lasts long enough to wear out the barrels. Do the same thing every time. Full length size the brass every time. Get the tools learn how to measure the cases and understand what your trying to do. Do not follow the instructions on the dies, thats far outdated info to make something function in every gun. Be smarter than that and size the cases to fit YOUR chamber. If you have an odd chamber or a sloppy chamber send some fired brass to Whidden and get a die made to fit your rifle. Accuracy and reliably will improve and brass will last just about forever.
Full length resizing and producing ammo that exactly fits your chamber is an impossibility unless you are using extremely high end dies custom made specifically to fit ammo once fired in your individual rifle.

Yes, the latest craze among benchrest shooters is to full length resize every time but like every other fad that's hit the BR community over the last 60 years it will only last until the next guy who's necksizing only or primarily comes along beating the current records.
 
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