Brown bear Rifle

Man, "don't really want a buy a new rifle". Who are you?

Haha, just kidding. I'm a big believer in what several have already said, shoot the gun you know and 300 WM is plenty big medicine, with shot placement.

That last phrase is the key IMO. If you're backed up, suspect your guide will have 375 or larger. If it were me, id get a 416R or 375 H&H in the CZ550. If I were on a tight budget, i'd buy it used. If you don't fall in love you can sell it after your trip for what you paid or darn close to it. But you'll probably fall in love. Then plan your trip to Africa and go shoot a cape bufalo and then sell everything that isn't bolted down to go back because you'll be addicted. Don't say I didn't warn you! Haha

Have a great trip - last frontier and classic hunt!

By the way, that 416R hits like the wrath of God! You'll be awestruck.
 
your hunt, your life
PRETTY DARN IMPORTANT DECISION
I shoot benchrest with an old Alaskan Guide.
We have talked kodiak hunts into the wee hours.
He would tell you, 375
Once in a lifetime hunt, dont cut corners ANYWHERE
I would take the advice of an Alaskan guide, but I wouldnt take the advice of anyone who doesnt do it for a living.
No disrepect to anyone offering an opinion, as you can see,... so am I.
And I am not a proffesional.
JMHO
Those bears have been killed with 22's, arrows anything folks had handy....use anything.
Or....gear up and do a once in a lifetime hunt like its a once in a lifetime hunt.
Have fun, dont make it a job
 
Planning on a once in a lifetime brown bear Alaskan hunt in a couple years. Have a 300 Win Mag that shoots 220 Nosler partitions and 200 Nosler partitions quite well. Don't really want to buy another rifle but should I move up to a 338 class? Thinking of either a 33 Nosler, 338 WM or 338 ultra??? Opinions???
This is sure to be a read, but I hope helpful on all accounts...
Bullet selection in former decades was lacking in some calibers. But in the GWN (Great White North), the usual suspects for hunting and personal defense against resident predators fell into two categories, much like on the dark continent of Africa. Cost and Availability. Both within the capability to execute the task at hand! From bears to marauding pachyderms hunters and farmers made due with white the best they could afford and attain. That said, Alaskans and basically anyone in the extreme NW looked for the best ballistic performance they could achieve with their currently owned bang sticks. There are MANY brownies, grizzlies, and even Polar's that have been felled with 30-06, 35 Whelen, 300WM, 270win and 308, just to name a few. I once encountered a Russian Colonel (native Siberian) who swore by the 12ga with hearty loads in thick terrain. He would stare at you cold faced and state 'there's no substitute for firepower under 20 meters.' Others swear by gas guns in 308 win with a 20 round magazine full of partitions. A common denominator emerging here is 'to each his own' when it comes to experience in the field. HOWEVER!!! Modern ballistics can only be measured on a law of 'averages'...there's a reason a prudent Hunter doesn't hunt the Black Death with 5.56 NATO loaded with ANY projectile, solid or otherwise. Will it do the job with proper projectiles? Sure it will, if eventual death is the desired outcome. If a much higher percentage of immediate target reduction is required to save your life at 60 feet, well then...There's your answer. Physics isn't just a good idea. It's the law. A bigger brick at the same velocity equals bigger punch🤜 Whatever you choose to hunt dangerous game with will need to meet your criteria for the worst case scenario you can handle under stress. Reaction time, terrain, and of course SUITABLE ballistic performance. Recoil mitigation can be achieved with a number of devices. I've tamed some vicious calibers over the decades with nothing more than a quality muzzle brake. Don't fear more gun, it's a non-issue in present day. Pick a good knowledgeable guide, a gun you've practiced with EXTENSIVELY! One that you're confident with that you can wield and level quickly and accurately. You'll not only have a confident hunt, you'll have a memorable adventure you can pass on to the next 'Once in a Lifetime' member. Good luck with your hunt sir. I'd Love to see the pics🙌
 
Install a muzzle brake.
I even have one on a 22 Creedmoor. Very nice for spotting hits. Muzzle brakes on most everything else too. With an efficient muzzle brake, recoil is almost a non-event.

In the Bay we hunted brown bear earlier this month, the local guide and client had a 10+ footer scramble to within 5yds of them after shooting it.

They returned the next morning to find a good blood trail and the boar still alive. Were able to finish it with additional shots fired.

I don't have the fine details about shot placement, but feel certain the guide was plugging it too, since it came at them. And they commonly carry .375s.

The bigger the bear, the bigger the caliber of my rifle carried. At this point, I use .338s. I don't hunt with a guide. So don't have to worry about them shooting my bear. I just like them down sooner than later.

I know several guides out of Homer, some guide on Kodiak, they all hate brakes. Two of the guides wont take you in with a brake on your rifle and a another will ask you to take it off. I have talked to these guys and they wont wear ear plugs or Walkers game ears, something about needing all your senses when hunting critters that hunt back. Just something to think about. Talk to your guide before hand and find out what he expects from you. Happy shooting.
 
'''This is sure to be a read, but I hope helpful on all accounts...
Bullet selection in former decades was lacking in some calibers. But in the GWN (Great White North), the usual suspects for hunting and personal defense against resident predators fell into two categories, much like on the dark continent of Africa. Cost and Availability. Both within the capability to execute the task at hand! From bears to marauding pachyderms hunters and farmers made due with white the best they could afford and attain. That said, Alaskans and basically anyone in the extreme NW looked for the best ballistic performance they could achieve with their currently owned bang sticks. There are MANY brownies, grizzlies, and even Polar's that have been felled with 30-06, 35 Whelen, 300WM, 270win and 308, just to name a few. I once encountered a Russian Colonel (native Siberian) who swore by the 12ga with hearty loads in thick terrain. He would stare at you cold faced and state 'there's no substitute for firepower under 20 meters.' Others swear by gas guns in 308 win with a 20 round magazine full of partitions. A common denominator emerging here is 'to each his own' when it comes to experience in the field. HOWEVER!!! Modern ballistics can only be measured on a law of 'averages'...there's a reason a prudent Hunter doesn't hunt the Black Death with 5.56 NATO loaded with ANY projectile, solid or otherwise. Will it do the job with proper projectiles? Sure it will, if eventual death is the desired outcome. If a much higher percentage of immediate target reduction is required to save your life at 60 feet, well then...There's your answer. Physics isn't just a good idea. It's the law. A bigger brick at the same velocity equals bigger punch🤜 Whatever you choose to hunt dangerous game with will need to meet your criteria for the worst case scenario you can handle under stress. Reaction time, terrain, and of course SUITABLE ballistic performance. Recoil mitigation can be achieved with a number of devices. I've tamed some vicious calibers over the decades with nothing more than a quality muzzle brake. Don't fear more gun, it's a non-issue in present day. Pick a good knowledgeable guide, a gun you've practiced with EXTENSIVELY! One that you're confident with that you can wield and level quickly and accurately. You'll not only have a confident hunt, you'll have a memorable adventure you can pass on to the next 'Once in a Lifetime' member. Good luck with your hunt sir. I'd Love to see the pics🙌
Correct, physics isn't just a good idea, it's the law. The only laws politicians cannot break but they still try. Happy shooting.
 
Dang...bullets. So important and I didn't give my .02

Swift A-frame in the pipe and swift solids in the hole. All shots after first will hopefully be raking shots at a departing angle. 300 grains for the 375 or 400 grains for the 416R. I have some spare 416 solids if you go that route, PM me I'll share. They are hard to find.

Trophy bonded bear claw and Barnes TSX also good choices for first shot expanders on tough/dangerous game.

BTW Lonnie Cribb at Superior Ammo has great workups and very reasonable. Much easier on shoulder and cheaper than developing your own loads once you get into big bores.
 
Planning on a once in a lifetime brown bear Alaskan hunt in a couple years. Have a 300 Win Mag that shoots 220 Nosler partitions and 200 Nosler partitions quite well. Don't really want to buy another rifle but should I move up to a 338 class? Thinking of either a 33 Nosler, 338 WM or 338 ultra??? Opinions???
If you decide to move up in class, move up to 375 class or larger. You are talking about a large and very tough animal that many times requires follow-up shots. If you shoot your 300WM well, concentrate on having good, deep pentrating bullets.
 
Just my 2 cents 358 STA with a 254gr. hammer bullet or a 375 of your choosing with that said your 300wm will get the job done just not my first choice on an animal that could eat you
 
Planning on a once in a lifetime brown bear Alaskan hunt in a couple years. Have a 300 Win Mag that shoots 220 Nosler partitions and 200 Nosler partitions quite well. Don't really want to buy another rifle but should I move up to a 338 class? Thinking of either a 33 Nosler, 338 WM or 338 ultra??? Opinions???
I never hunted a brown bear. But heres some numbers. Your 300 wm has about 3357#'s of energy at the muzzle with a 220 gr. A 338 RUM has about 1000#'s more with the same weight bullets. Both have more then enough energy, I would think. And the 300 wm carries 2000#'s to 660 yards.
But I would look at a solid copper bullet like the ttsx though, its gonna penetrate better then any bonded or lead core bullet. That would give me the warm fuzzies in case I had to shoot a charging bear through the shoulder blade. But if I was gonna jump up in caliber Id go to a .37. Theres a reason the guides shoot .37 calibers. A 375 rum with a 270 gr solid has about 2000#'s more energy then your 300 wm.
So I guess the question is what amount of energy do you feel comfortable with? I'd feel pretty good with a 300 wm shooting a 200 gr LRX or ttsx above 2800 fps.
Planning on a once in a lifetime brown bear Alaskan hunt in a couple years. Have a 300 Win Mag that shoots 220 Nosler partitions and 200 Nosler partitions quite well. Don't really want to buy another rifle but should I move up to a 338 class? Thinking of either a 33 Nosler, 338 WM or 338 ultra??? Opinions???

Planning on a once in a lifetime brown bear Alaskan hunt in a couple years. Have a 300 Win Mag that shoots 220 Nosler partitions and 200 Nosler partitions quite well. Don't really want to buy another rifle but should I move up to a 338 class? Thinking of either a 33 Nosler, 338 WM or 338 ultra??? Opinions???
 
Some really good comments above…. I would only ask what scope you have? If you have a scope with a narrow FOV that could be an issue.

You should speak w the guide about the terrain and how long of a shot you should expect. You might need a scope for something a bit closer.

I have to agree that the man with 1 rifle is far more deadly. If I were going to buy a dedicated rifle for AK it would probably be a 375 H&H with a highly durable, wide FOV, low light objective and 6x ish scope.
 
Do not know where yet but will attend several sport shows to get a read on guide and service face to face if possible. We be quite disappointed if a guide opened up on a bear that I hit well. Might end up on one of those boat hunts in the ABC s . Do not need a 10 footer but a nice representative animal and a great adventure would be a winner. Will be looking at the peninsula also.
Then I would get a different gun. The guide will be more likely to help dispatch a bear when the client is shooting something smaller than a 338. If you have the same caliber as the guide ( likely a 375) then they will tend to give you a larger window of time to see the impact of your shot was. I would also practice follow-up shots at the range.
 
There is a reason most guides insist on .338 AND UP for the big brown bears. Smaller calibers will EVENTUALLY kill a bear. Larger calibers stop bears more quickly — presuming you can put the larger caliber bullet where it needs to go. The last thing anyone wants to deal with is a wounded bear in thick cover.

I haven't been able to afford the hunt yet, but over the years I've collected two appropriate rifles, a stainless/synthetic Sako in .375 H&H that was Magna-ported, and a Weatherby Accumark in .338/.378 Weatherby. Both are as easy to shoot well as any .300 Win.
 
66C9F6D6-8128-4C7A-B5BD-F09A8DF2C342.jpeg Swift A Frame 250 grain at 160 yards. Retained weight 237.9 and recovered on off shoulder of 9' 4" shot on the Alaskan Peninsula with 340 Weatherby. Bear travelled approximately 40 yards and expired.
 
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