nksmfamjp
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Any of those loading 2.9" or longer?
Modify Savage Action for MDT Chassis - WSM
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For me, the video in #8 shows the rounds are not trapped under the feed ramp as you indicated in #12 (and MDT video provided by @jasonco ); otherwise, you will not be able to cycle a round through the chamber. It seems that is not the case in your video. I'm sure I am missing something here.
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nksmfamjp
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Yea, that was my point with the video. With rounds trapped, it is a totally static locked up situation. I guess I could of video'd magazine insertion showing the rounds trapped.
The video just shows std feed cycle. No real info there, right?
My purpose of this post is to figure out if someone did this and destroyed their action or did this and wished they did it differently. I asked a gunsmith about it and got a vague answer about cutting it and then having to rework the entire feed cycle and that kind of ****ed me off.
I probably need to see exactly how it hits the feed ramp. If it hits in this area, it will need more massaging/polishing to get it right and risk is higher.
Okay, now I'm tracking. I checked 2 of my 3, Savage chassis rifles, the Oryx 25 Creedmoor has about a 1/16" edge and the 6mm Creedmoor XLR Element has 3/32" edge, like yours, but these aren't having a cartridge hang up, because I'm using AICS Pmag not metal mags. The Pmags are thicker and take up the gap, much like a binder plate, would do. Never really noticed it actually and COL on both are at close to Pmag length @2.85".
Either take it to the smithy and wait or get the carbide cutters out (I suggest an air die grinder) and get to removing some steel?! I have an auto body shop, so I work with metal daily, that's why I'm a Savage acolyte.
nksmfamjp
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Yep, exactly. The thing is....300 WSM needs every bit of mag length it can get.
I get how binder plates would fix it. If the chassis were advertised as binder plate mags only, I would have gone a different way.
Gotcha. I had missed the part, that you were working with a 300 WSM. I too, may or may not, run into this issue when I get another Sav FV to build a light weight carbon barreled 6.5 PRC. I'v already spec'd out the action & cartridge dimensions from a previous FV and already have the most important part, short action controlled feed magnum bolt head. I was thinking a nice blind box stock, for max cartridge length, but we'll see, I really like chassis'?
Another thread here related to the .300 WSM- I used a Wyatts (internal) extended box mag and modified the receiver and bolt stop accordingly. This one's a hunting rifle, and I'm personally not a fan of DBM's for that application.
Will a different mag with shorter capacity fix the problem? Of course, if the receiver cutout isn't long enough and you don't want to modify the receiver. Also "of course"- your OAL max is going to be less. May or may not be an issue for you depending on whether you intend to load heavier VLD's without needing to sink them too deep into the case.
As mentioned, it's a common issue for followers to push the round up nose down which can also cause it to hang up and this can be often fixed by modifying the follower spring so the round has the correct orientation when pushed by the boltface.
Will a different mag with shorter capacity fix the problem? Of course, if the receiver cutout isn't long enough and you don't want to modify the receiver. Also "of course"- your OAL max is going to be less. May or may not be an issue for you depending on whether you intend to load heavier VLD's without needing to sink them too deep into the case.
As mentioned, it's a common issue for followers to push the round up nose down which can also cause it to hang up and this can be often fixed by modifying the follower spring so the round has the correct orientation when pushed by the boltface.
new2mud
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Nate—I have done exactly what you describe in order to utilize the binderless mags' longer COAL.
Used a file and a dremel to cut a notch just as you describe. I also used the dremel to smooth out the transition and create a bit of a "ramp" to smooth feeding. It has been fine for about 2000 rounds of 6.5 PRC so far.
nksmfamjp
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Thanks for the feedback. Just a basic abrasive stone bit to cut it or is the action too hard for that?
new2mud
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I started with a small triangle file so I could better control the notch shape. Now that I think of it I think most of the notch was cut with the file. Then smoothed out and contoured with the dremel.
IIRC, the ceramic bits got eaten up pretty quickly, and I used a cheap "diamond grit" fine point tip as the primary dremel bit. And I seriously doubt it is actual diamond-coated—seems more like a roughed-up metal bit! So the receiver steel is not ultra hard like hardened steel, but definitely not butter.
It didn't take more than 20 mins—just take your time of course and don't cut any more depth (length?) than you absolutely have to. I was nervous about structural integrity of the lug locking area, but I know many others before me have done it.
nksmfamjp
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Yea....I think my length of cut is only 0.040" roughly....Not much, but I am freaked out that I'm going to scrap a receiver.
cut and measure cut and measure repeat.
