Annealing

Joemvela

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I'm sure that this question has been posted 100x before, but I will ask anyways.......How long/recommend annealing brass and how often?

Does the duration for annealing matter on the brass/ cal?
 
Annealing is dependent on time and temperature. The thicker the brass the longer the dwell time at a given temperature. Plenty of opinions on how frequent to anneal but we would all agree one should anneal their brass often enough to have the necks not split before the primer pockets are toast.
 
I'm sure that this question has been posted 100x before, but I will ask anyways.......How long/recommend annealing brass and how often?

Does the duration for annealing matter on the brass/ cal?
As aushunter1 said search and read also lots of good info on you tube but just for reference everything I anneal is in the 6 to 9 second range,Your gonna get a thousand answers on how and not how to do it and I have done most of them, dark room until you see a soft glow, if the flame changes color you have over done it, simple and it works, consistency is the key here and the most important part of the process
 
1st, I'm not an expert on annealing....so....a lot depends on how your annealing....is it with a machine, single or double torch flame, distance of flame tip from neck, etc....Im annealing 6mm Dasher, 6.5 creedmoor, 223 etc. As to date, I have reloaded cases 6-8 times with annealing each time and my neck tension and shoulder bump are always dead on....which at least indicates it's working...each brand of brass ( Norma, Lapua, Hornady and LC) has different time needed by a small amount, but 90% of mine, with dual flame runs in the 5 sec range..expect to lose a couple cases in the beginning...
 
I'd like to know what the biggest factor is in getting consistent results when using the torch and drill with socket method. That's what I do and I feel like I don't get consistent results. Is it distance to flame, spin speed, etc?
 
I'd like to know what the biggest factor is in getting consistent results when using the torch and drill with socket method. That's what I do and I feel like I don't get consistent results. Is it distance to flame, spin speed, etc?
I've been there, just run the drill wide open at the tip of the inner cone and then it's muscle memory and practice, some use a timer but I just count out loud
 
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Just my .02, I tried the socket-drill method...50-50 chance of 2 cases being even close in results....unless you can control (consistently) rpm of case, distance of flame tip to case, and time.....then your tolerance stacking (things that can change) is uncontrollable.....do you have $60-80 budget? If not, and I understand that, then you are doing what you can....but maybe worse off than not annealing....here is a pic of a annealing machine I built, not professional grade, but I do get consistent results....one speed controller is for case fed, one for case-flame time...if you don't need case feed, it will run about $20.00 less....rsbhunter
 

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Just my .02, I tried the socket-drill method...50-50 chance of 2 cases being even close in results....unless you can control (consistently) rpm of case, distance of flame tip to case, and time.....then your tolerance stacking (things that can change) is uncontrollable.....do you have $60-80 budget? If not, and I understand that, then you are doing what you can....but maybe worse off than not annealing....here is a pic of a annealing machine I built, not professional grade, but I do get consistent results....one speed controller is for case fed, one for case-flame time...if you don't need case feed, it will run about $20.00 less....rsbhunter
I used a drill and a socket for 15 years, verified with Templaq, Its not that hard to and can be done efficiently it just takes a little practice, this issue has been hashed out a thousand times
 
Just my .02, I tried the socket-drill method...50-50 chance of 2 cases being even close in results....unless you can control (consistently) rpm of case, distance of flame tip to case, and time.....then your tolerance stacking (things that can change) is uncontrollable.....do you have $60-80 budget? If not, and I understand that, then you are doing what you can....but maybe worse off than not annealing....here is a pic of a annealing machine I built, not professional grade, but I do get consistent results....one speed controller is for case fed, one for case-flame time...if you don't need case feed, it will run about $20.00 less....rsbhunter

I've seen that and yes I'd like to build one. It's just a matter of finding a parts list for it.

As bitterness stated, I think it can be done well with the socket and drill but takes a lot of practice. I'm not sure all the practice would alleviate my anxiety though haha
 
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