Lapping A Barrel

Schultz and Larsen use a cast Tin plug to lap their barrels, what is also interesting is that they chamber the barrel before they lap it. The lapping process starts at around
2 min 30 seconds on the video for those that don't want to watch the whole video. Sorry that it has English subtitles.

 
There must be many variances on lapping. A friend of mine used to work for a custom rifle builder. What they called their lapping was done to the barrel blanks before any machining was done. There lapping was ultra fine steel wool on a wooden dowel ran back and forth through the barrel. This is a very well known rifle builder with very accurate rifles. This whole lapping thing intrigues me. So many different points of view. Is there a solid way to compare all the different methids? By no means do i think it hurts but is it needed and to what extent. Ive seen numerous $225 savage rifles shoot .5moa. I doubt there is any lapping done to them. So is it needed? Im not sure. Ive been told before that the machining on a barrel determines its accuracy. Lapping and break in mainly let it achieve its accuracy potential sooner. I dont have a clue. Only things i have seen and been told. Love to see where this thread goes. Always ready to learn.

Adam
 
I push a lead pistol bullet or 3 through the bore using a wood dowel for my lapping lead. The lapping rod is marked with painters tape so the bullet is still completely in the bore at the muzzle. I then draw it out the chamber marking the rod as it gets to the leade chamber area. Marking the rod to start the lead lap on the same groove then I divide the area so I have 3 distinct sections. I will make a pass to find any tight spots with the muzzle indicating tape 1/2" short of the mark. I start at 800grit It usually will be 1-3 passes. Once the tight spot(s) feel the same as the rest I will then take out that bullet/lead lap and thoroughly clean first by flooding with brakleen or carb cleaner then hoppe's 9. Then I will take bullet 2 and mount to my lapping rod and apply 1200. Start it in from the chamber end same groove as marked. Now the front of the tape marks the leade angle so mark halfway on that piece of tape with a sharpie. Do not come out past that till done. First 10 strokes forward and back from your sharpie mark to the first of 3 pieces of tape on your rod. Once done remove reapply grit and reinsert on that same groove. 10 strokes from the marker to the second piece of tape. Remove reapply reinsert and make 5 passes from the marker spot to 1/2" of your muzzle indicating tape. You have now lapped in the proper taper to your bore. Remove the lap at the chamber flood and clean. I see 100 to sometimes 130fps gains over not doing this. When done right you can pull a vacuum with cotton patch when you put your finger over the muzzle and drag a snug patch back through the bore.
Now all you have to do is shoot in the throat and it should clean really easy. Every 100 rounds I will either run a tubbs tms bullet or some JB on a lead lap to keep the throat smooth.
Does it work? My 308 has 4331 rounds through it. I can still shoot 1/2"300 yard groups with different weight bullets. Has it lost some accuracy IDK the loose nut behind the trigger sure but I cannot say for certain the rifle has? When I'm shooting well sub inch 500yd groups of 5 or more is fairly easy. It still shoots 175fgmm and hornady 178bthp into a hole at 100yds.
 
There must be many variances on lapping. A friend of mine used to work for a custom rifle builder. What they called their lapping was done to the barrel blanks before any machining was done. There lapping was ultra fine steel wool on a wooden dowel ran back and forth through the barrel. This is a very well known rifle builder with very accurate rifles. This whole lapping thing intrigues me. So many different points of view. Is there a solid way to compare all the different methids? By no means do i think it hurts but is it needed and to what extent. Ive seen numerous $225 savage rifles shoot .5moa. I doubt there is any lapping done to them. So is it needed? Im not sure. Ive been told before that the machining on a barrel determines its accuracy. Lapping and break in mainly let it achieve its accuracy potential sooner. I dont have a clue. Only things i have seen and been told. Love to see where this thread goes. Always ready to learn.

Adam


There are many different ways that this process is done and just as many different results based on what the builder/barrel maker wants.

Knowing what the lapping process can/does do I truly believe that lapping should be done to a barrel blank so the smith can remove the belled out ends. (When a lap is reversed, it removes more metal because the compound shifts and cuts more material in the first 1/2 inch or so). Lapping after a chamber is a process used to smooth out the machine marks from chambering and it is very hard to start the lap correctly so they use steel wool or something else that doesn't need to start in the rifling. I consider this more of a polishing than a true lapping because it doesn't get to the bottom of the groves like a cast lap does.

Reversing the lap at the end of the stroke(Before exiting the bore) has the same effect as reversing a Bronze brush in the bore while cleaning. First it doesn't want to change directions and when it does it can leave marks. Lapping compound can do the came thing but in the process it removes more material than normal because it is harder than the barrel.

By lapping the barrel before cutting the chamber you eliminate the belling effect in the bore when you remove this part by cutting 3/4 " off the muzzle and chambering the breach end allows the reamer to remove this on the chamber end.

To accomplish both lapping and removing machine/reamer marks I prefer to break in the barrel and remove any defects left by the barreling process and smooth out and chambering marks left by the reamer in the throat lead and Lands left by the pilot.

Combining different task doesn't always give the best total results so I believe in solving one problem at a time so each is as good as possible.

Most everything we do to get accuracy requires attention to details and short cuts are just not in some peoples vocabulary/processes. All things are not created equal and sometimes require adjusting to the plan to get the best outcome. Machines can be very repeatable but craftsmanship can be flexible when needed to produce fine quality.

Just my opinion

J E CUSTOM
 
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On factory type barrels, I have had excellent results with Tubb's Final Finish. I would only have an expert that has done hundreds over the years by hand do it otherwise. Human hand needs to be highly practiced to yield good results.
 
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I have some old barrels and a borescope. I'll give her a try and let you know how it goes. A patch of trans fluid for a release agent should work or maybe some paste wax. Thoughts?
Perhaps stir in the grit when you mix the epoxy, instead of applying to the outside of the plug after it's hardened?
 
Perhaps stir in the grit when you mix the epoxy, instead of applying to the outside of the plug after it's hardened?
Somebody has to try some of this stuff.
Whether it works or not, no matter what is tried & true that works now, remember it wad just an idea at one time!
 
Thinking out loud here and dont know how this stuff works for sure. But the guys that spend hours and hours putting wax on their car then buffing it and waxing etc... my understanding is they are building up a wax coating made of several layers, which would ultimately mean it's getting thicker...again I dont know anything just thinking for the world to see...
But if you were able to build up a wax coating inside the bore, then pour in the epoxy to make the lap, then strip it all out, theoretically the clearance would be equivalent to the thickness of the wax layer which would create space for the abrasive compound.
I like the idea of mixing it into the epoxy, but it would dull quickly with no way to recharge it.
 
Good stuff guys. I'll try some devcon with JB bore paste and take a video before and after with the borescope
No idea what JB Bore paste is made of, but it might somehow affect the epoxy curing. Might wanna run a test batch before committing to pouring it in the barrel.

Not sure if you can source it, but maybe you can find some plain abrasive grit to add. I could potentially send you some, as we have a wide variety in our polishing lab.
 
No idea what JB Bore paste is made of, but it might somehow affect the epoxy curing. Might wanna run a test batch before committing to pouring it in the barrel.

Not sure if you can source it, but maybe you can find some plain abrasive grit to add. I could potentially send you some, as we have a wide variety in our polishing lab.
I wouldn't mix them. Pour the epoxy and let dry, then use the JB bore paste. Thank you for the offer. I'll try this and see what results we get.
 
It will actually copper up worse if it has to fine a finish.
 

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