Need some advice on picking a scale.

I'm piecing together a reloading kit and I have everything I need except a scale. I don't participate in competitions of any sorts anymore and mainly shoot for hunting or leisure but the gun club I joined does do a summer league at 300 yards I might participate in this summer. I'm planning to purchase my scale from Cabela's as I have a $100 gift card that's been laying around for a year and they are only a 50 minute drive from me. I'd like to keep my cost at or around $100 so that gives me up to $200 for a scale. I've narrowed it down to:
  • Frankford Arsenal Intelli-Dropper ($200)
  • Frankford Arsenal Platinum Series scale ($95)
  • RCBS M500 beam scale ($100)
  • RCBS Rangemaster 2000 ($140)
  • Lyman Accu-Touch 2000 ($125)
There are other scales they sell, most cheaper or more expensive than these but some like the Hornady digital scale had horrible reviews and decided to leave them off my list. Any of these scales worth buying and if they are what would serve me best? All thoughts and opinions welcomed. Thank you.

I have only briefly read the postings so some of this will be redundant with all the excellent advice given. However, the take away from the responses should help define what is most important when using ANY scale. I like my scale and it has been accurate, but that is only one third of the equation when creating really exceptional quality reloaded cartridges and if your doing it why not make it exceptional. You will be amazed at the results you get.

1) Equipment type and quality is important, but not the most important. The first thing you need to do and it WILL have biggest effect on your reloading consistency Is educate yourself. You don't know, what you don't know! I know, a little redundant but it is true especially with consistent ammo. You need to have supreme confidence in the ammo you are producing. You need to study up on exactly what the PROCESS is on how to go about making exceptional ammo. There are a lot of articles out there so the source you study from is critical. I am sure a lot of us on LRH have read them so we can help you cut through the BS. First, reloading is a process, how and when you do operations in that process have an huge effect on later process operations and end results. This is where quality and more importantly, consistency is earned and results gained. It is critical to do them in the correct sequence and do them you must for long range consistency.
Reading articles in accurateshooter.com helped me leap frog my quality/consistency that otherwise I would have probably never achieved. The most helpful article I read were from accurate shooter. These long range benchrest guys have to squeeze out every little advantage to compete and it pays off big time. Just go to accurate shooter dot com and search reloading. Attached are some articles that I found to improve my consistency in the least amount of time and ultimately money, and I mean a lot of money.
https://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/reloading/complete-precision-case-prep/
https://www.chuckhawks.com/preparing_competition_brass.htm

2. Location and environment is huge. Only measure in an area with no wind, low humidity (not every basement is acceptable) and stable temperatures. Another most important caveat, in a way that minimizes your distractions and maximizes concentration

3) Get comfortable, I mean really comfortable! Every process step should not cause you to get stiff or tired. Using the self dispensing units are great, but you will double check from time to time no matter which scale you use and more importantly the PROCESS you are using.

4) Skipping processes because you are not up to a level due to equipment cost is a reality to many reloading ammunition. Some of this stuff is expensive and quite frankly not everyone wants to spend the money required. If you are in those categories, so be it, however do each and every process that is free or a low cost to start executing, they will have an effect. There are several processes that fall into this category, costing only time.

5) Make it fun so that you continue to do it! You will see improvements in consistency and your shots down range, which are both rewarding. After you have your process down then start to tweek you ammo to maximize your guns capabilities. Reloading has taken several old guns in my family from 2-3 moa to under 1 and saved the guns from being sold because they "could not shoot accurately." That is very rewarding.
 
rcbs learned a lot with the charge master. they put what they learned plus whats is new into the LITE.
READ MY LIPS:
get your cal wights set at 50.00 so total is 100.00
and the machine WORKS.
I HAVE TESTED THE KRAP OUT OF MINE.
it will work for all but the true long range competition shooters.
i have tested it, it works.
all the other options are cheap poor electronics IMHO.
no issue with drift, no issue with dirty elec

or

you could use the lee beam, and you will spend so much time loading that we will never hear from you again.
 
I use a chargemaster. Just check the weight readout AFTER the cartridge count. The Charge master is one of the easiest to empty!!
Happy loading - remember you reload to shoot - not the other way around.
 
I have only briefly read the postings so some of this will be redundant with all the excellent advice given. However, the take away from the responses should help define what is most important when using ANY scale. I like my scale and it has been accurate, but that is only one third of the equation when creating really exceptional quality reloaded cartridges and if your doing it why not make it exceptional. You will be amazed at the results you get.

1) Equipment type and quality is important, but not the most important. The first thing you need to do and it WILL have biggest effect on your reloading consistency Is educate yourself. You don't know, what you don't know! I know, a little redundant but it is true especially with consistent ammo. You need to have supreme confidence in the ammo you are producing. You need to study up on exactly what the PROCESS is on how to go about making exceptional ammo. There are a lot of articles out there so the source you study from is critical. I am sure a lot of us on LRH have read them so we can help you cut through the BS. First, reloading is a process, how and when you do operations in that process have an huge effect on later process operations and end results. This is where quality and more importantly, consistency is earned and results gained. It is critical to do them in the correct sequence and do them you must for long range consistency.
Reading articles in accurateshooter.com helped me leap frog my quality/consistency that otherwise I would have probably never achieved. The most helpful article I read were from accurate shooter. These long range benchrest guys have to squeeze out every little advantage to compete and it pays off big time. Just go to accurate shooter dot com and search reloading. Attached are some articles that I found to improve my consistency in the least amount of time and ultimately money, and I mean a lot of money.
https://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/reloading/complete-precision-case-prep/
https://www.chuckhawks.com/preparing_competition_brass.htm

2. Location and environment is huge. Only measure in an area with no wind, low humidity (not every basement is acceptable) and stable temperatures. Another most important caveat, in a way that minimizes your distractions and maximizes concentration

3) Get comfortable, I mean really comfortable! Every process step should not cause you to get stiff or tired. Using the self dispensing units are great, but you will double check from time to time no matter which scale you use and more importantly the PROCESS you are using.

4) Skipping processes because you are not up to a level due to equipment cost is a reality to many reloading ammunition. Some of this stuff is expensive and quite frankly not everyone wants to spend the money required. If you are in those categories, so be it, however do each and every process that is free or a low cost to start executing, they will have an effect. There are several processes that fall into this category, costing only time.

5) Make it fun so that you continue to do it! You will see improvements in consistency and your shots down range, which are both rewarding. After you have your process down then start to tweek you ammo to maximize your guns capabilities. Reloading has taken several old guns in my family from 2-3 moa to under 1 and saved the guns from being sold because they "could not shoot accurately." That is very rewarding.
Very
 
I have had issues with electronic scales by as much as .8 grains and It drove me to load precision ammo back to the beam scales with a trickler. At least I know then that I am loading a precise amount of powder.

I would like to find this "reactor clamp" Gizmo that Bstick is talking about. Does anyone know where to get this device?
 
I have had issues with electronic scales by as much as .8 grains and It drove me to load precision ammo back to the beam scales with a trickler. At least I know then that I am loading a precise amount of powder.

I would like to find this "reactor clamp" Gizmo that Bstick is talking about. Does anyone know where to get this device?

Radio shack carries them. That is where I picked mine up. Most scales are coming with them now. You would be amazed at how many problems disappear after it's installed.
 
I did not read all 7 pages, but will throw my recommendation out there. Find an old rcbs 505, or 1010 beam scale that's made by Ohaus. Use your gift card for something else.
 
I'm piecing together a reloading kit and I have everything I need except a scale. I don't participate in competitions of any sorts anymore and mainly shoot for
hunting or leisure but the gun club I joined does do a summer league at 300 yards I might participate in this summer. I'm planning to purchase my scale from Cabela's as I have a $100 gift card that's been laying around for a year and they are only a 50 minute drive from me. I'd like to keep my cost at or around $100 so that gives me up to $200 for a scale. I've narrowed it down to:
  • Frankford Arsenal Intelli-Dropper ($200)
  • Frankford Arsenal Platinum Series scale ($95)
  • RCBS M500 beam scale ($100)
  • RCBS Rangemaster 2000 ($140)
  • Lyman Accu-Touch 2000 ($125)
There are other scales they sell, most cheaper or more expensive than these but some like the Hornady digital scale had horrible reviews and decided to leave them off my list. Any of these scales worth buying and if they are what would serve me best? All thoughts and opinions welcomed. Thank you.
I've got the the charge master and the hornady auto charge. Either one I use, I always double check each charge on a cheap $20 digital or the old ohaus beam.
Just started using the hornady trickle charge with a cheap scale and it works better than both the charge master or the auto charge with consistency.

No matter what you are loading for, I've found myself and most my buddies that reload have more scales than a suppermarket. Digital scales begin to slide one way or the other and beam scales are slower.
I think I've got 4 beam scales, auto charge, charge master and 3-4 cheap digital.

I know that's not much help to make a choice, just being honest.
 
i like my gempro250 BUT i see very few good reviews.
mine works, appears to be an exception.
lots of zeroing, but good weight in the end.
I had two gem pro 250's. I returned the one as it was FUBAR and they shipped me another to replace it. Worked okay for a while then it went down the same road. It has (like many other electronic gauges) a strain gauge which aren't reliable. After much research I found the magnetic force scale are much better. A&D 120 200 and 700 are good reloading scales. I decided to go with the Sartorius entris 323. I never looked back from that gem pro 250. A good magnetic force resolution scale starts around $600.
 
I'm waiting for my Scott Parker tuned balance beam scale made by Ohaus. He can tune them to read a single kernel of powder. I think a great combo would be a Chargemaster to throw the bulk of the charge then onto the bb scale for final tuning.
 
for what you have in scales you do not trust, you could have an A&D fx120i, and quit worrying about charge weight. plus or minus .02/.03 tolerance.
if you fo not shoot long range competition,
the chargemaster lite WORKS at less than the .1 advertised

I've got the the charge master and the hornady auto charge. Either one I use, I always double check each charge on a cheap $20 digital or the old ohaus beam.
Just started using the hornady trickle charge with a cheap scale and it works better than both the charge master or the auto charge with consistency.

No matter what you are loading for, I've found myself and most my buddies that reload have more scales than a suppermarket. Digital scales begin to slide one way or the other and beam scales are slower.
I think I've got 4 beam scales, auto charge, charge master and 3-4 cheap digital.

I know that's not much help to make a choice, just being honest.
 
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