Trouble ranging Big Game, need help

[Jeffrthehunter]

Really hoping I can get some helpful tips on how to use range finder in semi flat terrain. I am using the Sig Kilo 2400 and resting RF on rocks or gun for steadiness.

Opening day I made a bad shot on a deer due to distance error. Buck was in broken scrub brush and I kept getting different readings. I shot for 600 yards and should have shot for 550, I was very lucky that I hit the spine and it dropped.

On to my next hunt I had a good buck at 800 yards in tall grass among some small trees, I could not get a consistent range (this is sage brush country). In addition the wind was 12-15 mph at 9 o'clock. I decided it was too risky and needed to move. Two hours later the buck re-appeared and now I am around 650 yards with a 12 o'clock wind but again the range finder is reflecting off surrounding brush and grass and I'm getting readings from 600 to 700. Knowing what happened the week before I couldn't shoot. I was getting frustrated as this was well within my shooting ability if I knew the correct yardage. So now I pack up and move to a more elevated position but getting seen by the herd (several does and 2 bucks) is a big concern. Sneaking into the new location I ranged one of the trees at 450 yards and get setup, only one doe is visible at this time. One hour later (it is now 1 pm, I have been after this buck for 6 hours) the herd starts feeding and the buck stands up under the tree that I ranged. I still could not confirm that I was getting my laser on the deer but the tree was 450 and I made the shot, hit was good and deer ran 70 yards and piled up.

I really never expected to have so much trouble getting good distance readings and not sure what changes I need to make. I bought the Kilo 2400 because of its size, is that my problem? Any thoughts would really be appreciated.

I did shoot my Elk at 500 yards with good range readings, the bull was feeding in short grass and getting a good range on his body was much easier.

 

[RockyMtnMT]

Have you tried holding the button down and getting continuous readings. For me this will give me a better idea of what is the accurate distance.

Steve

 

[Barrelnut]

Couple things I do:
- Have 3 different rangefinders: 1 Leica and 2 Bushnells, I just use the one that fits the tasks the best.
- I like to secure the rangefinder to a small tripod. This makes things much more steady. I then get a range just over the target and with the range button still depressed (in scan mode) I slowly lower the rangefinder until it picks up the animal, I will do the more than once to insure I am getting some consistent readings from the background to the target. I will also due this vertically and horizontally, just what works best.
- When hunting open country for antelope and such I like to secure the rangefinder to a single staff adjustable walking/shooting stick. This works great. I have a walking staff with the range finder screwed into the top. It is very steady and I can adjust the walking staff down until I can use the rangefinder from a seated position.
- The actual size if the ranging area in the rangefinder screen and the reticle size and location all seem to differ. I practice with the rangefinder in scan mode until I can locate the exact spot on the screen where the rangefinder will transition from distant to desired target.
- Some rangefinders have a zip/brush mode where it will ignore a weaker reflection from brush/rain/etc and give the results for the stronger reflection from the target behind it.
I have an old Bushnell that is surprisingly good at this.
- Just need to get the rangefinder steady and discover is strengths and weaknesses in ranging. From you story, you are well on your way on that!

Nice animals!

 

[theEMP]

I a sig range finder as well. I found the the very bottom of the circle was where the laser was actually aimed. That has helped me get more accurate ranges. I took my range finder out and using the auto scan feature I ranged the very top of a power pole to pin point where it was aimed at.

 

[Jeffrthehunter]

Have you tried holding the button down and getting continuous readings. For me this will give me a better idea of what is the accurate distance.

Steve

Steve, I have have been worried that continuous scan would eat the battery but I will try your suggestion with an extra battery in my pocket. Do you any issues with battery life.
Thanks for the tip, Jeff

 

[Jeffrthehunter]

Couple things I do:
- Have 3 different rangefinders: 1 Leica and 2 Bushnells, I just use the one that fits the tasks the best.
- I like to secure the rangefinder to a small tripod. This makes things much more steady. I then get a range just over the target and with the range button still depressed (in scan mode) I slowly lower the rangefinder until it picks up the animal, I will do the more than once to insure I am getting some consistent readings from the background to the target. I will also due this vertically and horizontally, just what works best.
- When hunting open country for antelope and such I like to secure the rangefinder to a single staff adjustable walking/shooting stick. This works great. I have a walking staff with the range finder screwed into the top. It is very steady and I can adjust the walking staff down until I can use the rangefinder from a seated position.
- The actual size if the ranging area in the rangefinder screen and the reticle size and location all seem to differ. I practice with the rangefinder in scan mode until I can locate the exact spot on the screen where the rangefinder will transition from distant to desired target.
- Some rangefinders have a zip/brush mode where it will ignore a weaker reflection from brush/rain/etc and give the results for the stronger reflection from the target behind it.
I have an old Bushnell that is surprisingly good at this.
- Just need to get the rangefinder steady and discover is strengths and weaknesses in ranging. From you story, you are well on your way on that!

Nice animals!

Thanks for the great response and tips. I need something that will keep the RF from rocking as I push the button. The Sig comes with a tripod mount but I thought that would be tough to work with, I will doing some practice trips soon.

 

[Bravo 4]

Steve, I have have been worried that continuous scan would eat the battery but I will try your suggestion with an extra battery in my pocket. Do you any issues with battery life.
Thanks for the tip, Jeff

It will eat the battery faster, but not fast. I used mine for well over a week on my elk hunt and caught myself playing (and scanning) with that thing constantly. Used one little bar the entire tire. I also left it on the longest run time. If that's all I used on that trip, I say scan away! The scan feature enabled me to range objects further than just point and click (on tripod).
As stated, check to see where within the aiming reticle the laser actually makes contact with your desired target. Jeff Brozovich (Broz) has a video on YouTube and his website.
It also helps to range objects you know are in front of (between you and target) and behind (past) to determine which range displayed is to the actual target.

 

[WildRose]

Really hoping I can get some helpful tips on how to use range finder in semi flat terrain. I am using the Sig Kilo 2400 and resting RF on rocks or gun for steadiness.

Opening day I made a bad shot on a deer due to distance error. Buck was in broken scrub brush and I kept getting different readings. I shot for 600 yards and should have shot for 550, I was very lucky that I hit the spine and it dropped.

On to my next hunt I had a good buck at 800 yards in tall grass among some small trees, I could not get a consistent range (this is sage brush country). In addition the wind was 12-15 mph at 9 o'clock. I decided it was too risky and needed to move. Two hours later the buck re-appeared and now I am around 650 yards with a 12 o'clock wind but again the range finder is reflecting off surrounding brush and grass and I'm getting readings from 600 to 700. Knowing what happened the week before I couldn't shoot. I was getting frustrated as this was well within my shooting ability if I knew the correct yardage. So now I pack up and move to a more elevated position but getting seen by the herd (several does and 2 bucks) is a big concern. Sneaking into the new location I ranged one of the trees at 450 yards and get setup, only one doe is visible at this time. One hour later (it is now 1 pm, I have been after this buck for 6 hours) the herd starts feeding and the buck stands up under the tree that I ranged. I still could not confirm that I was getting my laser on the deer but the tree was 450 and I made the shot, hit was good and deer ran 70 yards and piled up.

I really never expected to have so much trouble getting good distance readings and not sure what changes I need to make. I bought the Kilo 2400 because of its size, is that my problem? Any thoughts would really be appreciated.

I did shoot my Elk at 500 yards with good range readings, the bull was feeding in short grass and getting a good range on his body was much easier.

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There are three real common problems when it comes to getting accurate ranges.

Getting steady on your target. In flat terrain bouncing around just a little can add up to big errors.

Interference. Fences, terrain, brush, Trees, anything that breaks the beam between you and the target can give you a false reading.

Not enough of the animal visible. It sounds like your big issue here was just that you didn't have enough of the animal visible above the cover/terrain to get an accurate reading.

When I am ranging I try hard when time allows to get at least three different readings on the target and double check them against other targets at approximately the same range such as trees and highline poles or highly visible rocks.

If you can't get a good, steady reading that is pretty consistent you have to either attempt to move to a better location, get a steadier hold on the unit, or both.

 

[Barrelnut]

This is the setup I use on sage flats and such. I can steadly range almost immediately and can even do it seated.

 

[Jeffrthehunter]

This is the setup I use on sage flats and such. I can steadly range almost immediately and can even do it seated

Thanks BarrelNut, Do you feel the single post is better than a tripod, gives you the ability to adjust cant of beam?

 

[Barrelnut]

Thanks BarrelNut, Do you feel the single post is better than a tripod, gives you the ability to adjust cant of beam?

Yea. You can pan or cant by moving the staff forward and back a little. Don't think it is better than a good bipod. But it sure is easier and quicker. Main thing is it gets you above the sage easily.

 

[huntsman22]

 

[WildRose]

Nice setup and simple too.What mount/clamp system is that?

 

[huntsman22]

Homemade from a spotter window mount. The clamp wasn't wide enough for a LRF, so i chopped off the fixed side and bolted a piece of aluminum angle to make it work, A 1" piece of aluminum bar is bolted to the spotter mount on the head. I tighten the bolts when I get the spotter reticle and LRF co-witnessed.... Maybe easier to see from this angle.