Slipping Scope

[Konrad]

I have just assembled a Savage 11/111 Long Range Hunter in 7mm Rem Mag with Weaver Picatinny rail base and Weaver 4-hole Skeleton rings.
While fire forming brass, the front cross bolt sheared (40 inch pounds using torque wrench) and 20 inch pounds on the clamp screws with Loctite (purple). I ordered even higher rings to clear the 50mm objective lens and move the Leupold 4.5 x 14 closer to my eye (much better shooter fit, thank you) and when disassembling the old rings, I discovered the scope had slid back under recoil. The top clamp screws were tight.

I had lapped the rings to about 40-50% engagement and did the same with the new rings. Weaver's web-site says 15 inch pounds are suggested for the top clamps and 30 to 40 in lbs. for the cross-bolts. All screws are assembled using thread locking compound (purple).

I am now wondering if I need penetrating cylindrical compound (green) between the rings and scope...or just better rings??? If I used green, how would I remove the rings and compound from the scope body?

Haven't made it to the range since installing the new rings.

Thanks,
Konrad

 

[257Tony]

That rifle in a 7 mag shouldn't need anything special for rings or screws. I'd start by taking it all apart, and see if the rail needs to be bedded. If so, do it, if not, put it back together triple checking every thing along the way.

What type of rest were you using?

 

[MagMan]

Check to see if the screw heads are to tight in the counter sink.

 

[Konrad]

That rifle in a 7 mag shouldn't need anything special for rings or screws. I'd start by taking it all apart, and see if the rail needs to be bedded. If so, do it, if not, put it back together triple checking every thing along the way.

What type of rest were you using?

Sand bag(s).
I believe I may have over torqued the cross bolts because I used the "dry threads" number with Loctite.
Hopefully, I will make it to the range early next week.

 

[Engineering101]

If things don't work out for you I'll give you an option that always works for me which is the Burris Signature rings with the plastic inserts that auto align the scope meaning you don't need to lap rings. I also stick a piece of golf grip tape under the top inserts (so the inserts are stuck to the scope). I've never had a scope slide with this setup and I've got 15 long guns with most of them setup this way.

 

[AGL4now]

If weight is not an issue, you can use three or four rings. No one ever said we can only use two rings. I have shifted to using WARNE QD rings.

 

[Zen Archery]

thats a lot of torque man. Ive never gone over 30 with most being between 20-25 in.lbf.

 

[adam]

7mm is no magic recoil monster. The rings did not grip the scope. If the rings are torqued as you say, there is not enough surface with squeeze to hold the scope in place.

The purpose of lapping is to remove mis-alignment in the rings. If the rings are manufactured a might to large a diameter it is possible to lap out any squeeze they have on the scope.

Many ring sets have a slight gap between the set halves that you can see when assembled. As you torque this provides tension.

Personally I'd take the advice from engineering101. Burris signature z rings on everything I own. Very Solid rings. Never slip. No lapping. Under $60. The six screw tactical version has is about $100 and offers greater offset.

 

[J E Custom]

I have just assembled a Savage 11/111 Long Range Hunter in 7mm Rem Mag with Weaver Picatinny rail base and Weaver 4-hole Skeleton rings.
While fire forming brass, the front cross bolt sheared (40 inch pounds using torque wrench) and 20 inch pounds on the clamp screws with Loctite (purple). I ordered even higher rings to clear the 50mm objective lens and move the Leupold 4.5 x 14 closer to my eye (much better shooter fit, thank you) and when disassembling the old rings, I discovered the scope had slid back under recoil. The top clamp screws were tight.

I had lapped the rings to about 40-50% engagement and did the same with the new rings. Weaver's web-site says 15 inch pounds are suggested for the top clamps and 30 to 40 in lbs. for the cross-bolts. All screws are assembled using thread locking compound (purple).

I am now wondering if I need penetrating cylindrical compound (green) between the rings and scope...or just better rings??? If I used green, how would I remove the rings and compound from the scope body?

Haven't made it to the range since installing the new rings.

Thanks,
Konrad

Sounds to me like you over lapped the rings allowing the scope to slip.

You may have to replace the rings, because as stated, the scope should not move from the recoil of a 7mm mag.

Buy a top end set of rings and bases (The weaver style has smaller cross pins and more slack, allowing for more misalignment) and reaming will not be necessary to prevent slipping and marking the scope.

Just My opinion

J E CUSTOM

 

[Shane Lindsey]

I had the same thing happen in a set of Ruger rings for a Ruger 300 WM. Added some rubber cement under them and it seemed to snug it up.

I too believe I over lapped them.

 

[Barrelnut]

Rosin can also help if the rings are somewhat over lapped. Just dust some on the bottom of the rings and then the tops. Cover the action with a cloth, so none gets in the action. I use rosin on all of my rings now, even Burris Signatures. It works great.

 

[Konrad]

If weight is not an issue, you can use three or four rings. No one ever said we can only use two rings. I have shifted to using WARNE QD rings.

There simply is not enough room for additional rings; however, the concept is an excellent one.

 

[Konrad]

Rosin can also help if the rings are somewhat over lapped. Just dust some on the bottom of the rings and then the tops. Cover the action with a cloth, so none gets in the action. I use rosin on all of my rings now, even Burris Signatures. It works great.

Excellent solution!

 

[Konrad]

Check to see if the screw heads are to tight in the counter sink.

On these particular rings, the screw heads are indeed on the large side and the top clamp portion of the ring must be aligned properly in order to allow the screws to turn freely. Good advice!