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XP-100 swivel stud install advice and input please

Unofficial Gun Addict (UGA)

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2014
Messages
794
Location
Southern Idaho
Heya... I just got my dream gun and I don't want to ruin it, so I need some help.

What I want to do is put a swivel stud, or a plain stud in a non-typical spot: just behind the action at the rear of the gun, in the zytel stock which faces the shooter.

Here's a pic:
image.jpg

I haven't purchased the stud yet to insert, or started drilling, so if you can think of a good one, that would be great. What I'd like to do is have a stud mounted here that I can use to carry via a single sling and not worry about it breaking loose, as well as use it to help balance the gun when shooting by pushing forward some on the mid-grip, tightening the sling and creating another point for stability. kind of like what I do when shooting a rifle, using my elbow on my fore grip arm to tighten up the sling and solidify my aim.

Before I start buying and drilling... Any input on sling studs and advice for doing this would be awesome.

Thanks
 
JBB,

The rear portion of the Zytel stock is just over a 1/4" thick, but the mould seam for the two halves runs right down centerline, and is a weak spot.



Drilling and tapping the plastic at this point will lead to the stock wanting to split, and the stud wanting to pull out...

I would get one of the Uncle Mike's threaded studs.


Drill a clearance hole through the stock, and back it with a machine nut. The nut provided is to tall and will interfere with the safety assy. Of course you will have to shorten the stud so you have enough thread to get into the backer nut. A little epoxy around the nut after installation would help too.

Hope this helps,

-Mike
 
Thanks for the advice. Dead center was exactly where I had planned to drill... So as to keep pressure and recoil moving off the center axis.

So... Since the molding joint is the weakest point and splitting may occur, are you recommending drilling to the right or left of center? Wouldn't this cause the gun to pull in the opposing direction and throw shots? Might there be a way to go center and avoid splitting and weakening the stock? Any ideas?
 
The point I was trying to make is that drilling a clearance hole for the stud vs threading the stud into the stock down centerline will alleviated the stress on the seam. Having the backing nut will "sandwich" the stock, without having the stud relying on threads going into plastic at a weak spot.
Having done this both ways, I can tell you that it works:)

-mike
 
Rogue.... I gotcha. Don't tap the stock... Just drill and back it with a nut and some epoxy. Wasn't quite sure from the first message as it sounded like I shouldn't drill center at all. Great images and I sure appreciate all the effort you went through to assist me with this. Sure want to get it right the first time.

On a side note... I loaded 10 7mm IHMSA rounds and took it out to shoot... and it worked great. Little too snappy for one hand... at least in my hands as the recoil brings the muzzle up with some authority. I loaded from 30 to 33 grains of H4895 under a 140gr Nosler BT just to check for pressure and everything looked good all the way up. I just got the scope installed today, so I'm going to go out tomorrow to work up some loads between 32gr and 33.6gr. Hopefully I'll find one that looks good on paper.

Thanks again for your help. I'm jazzed!
 
jboscobuys,
No problem. The 7mm ihmsa is a great round. My son has a 7mm Int. X xp-100. This case is very similar to the 7 ihmsa with a little less body taper.
He has been using Win.748 with 130 - 168 gr bullets with very good accuracy.

Good luck with your project and happy huntinggun)

-mike
 
Well, got it done a few days ago... Not without some trials and tribulation, but it's done.

Here's some images of the stud... And the strap I made to carry it, which works out really nicely. Not sure how to get more than 1 image per message with this ipad... So will submit each in its own.
image.jpg
 
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