Timnterra
Well-Known Member
Does anyone have a Sharp Shooter Supply competition trigger they would like to sell? This accu trigger is just not cutting it I want a trigger that is actually adjustable.
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SOLD/EXPIRED WTB SSS competition trigger
- Thread starter Timnterra
- Start date
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Hollywood1009
Well-Known Member
I have a shillen fully adjustable trigger with 2 different sets of pins for sale. 95 shipped
Fits the rem 700
Fits the rem 700
Timnterra
Well-Known Member
Sorry I guess I should have said I'm looking for a savage 110 trigger
calib
Well-Known Member
i know brownells has them in stock
Timnterra
Well-Known Member
Thanks ill check there
Willoughby
Well-Known Member
Id' buy the accu trigger
depending on price of course
the best aftermarket is rifle basix Sav 2 trigger
about 150.00 or so
they adjust from 4 oz to 3 lbs
depending on price of course
the best aftermarket is rifle basix Sav 2 trigger
about 150.00 or so
they adjust from 4 oz to 3 lbs
Timnterra
Well-Known Member
i'm not sure; are you wanting to buy my used accu-trigger or advising me what you would do?
Timnterra
Well-Known Member
I will be happy to sell the Accutrigger as soon as a get the new one. If i go with the SSS i'll sell the whole assembly but i think the rifle basix uses the stock sear and carriage so it will just be the trigger and springs.
Willoughby
Well-Known Member
Quote i'm not sure; are you wanting to buy my used accu-trigger or advising me what you would do?
I want to buy your at and Im also recommending a RB Sav2 not to be confused with Rb Sav1
SSS uses stock sear and hanger
RB uses stock sear but comes with hanger
RB is very adjustable
comes with install cd
just to be honest the Accu Trigger is also adjustable if your a tinkerer s I am
and IMHO also safer design
I can adjust the AT from 8 oz - 3lbs by modifying the springs and polishing the contact points
I run all my AT at just over a pound seems to be best weight for accuracy -for me personally that is
I want to buy your at and Im also recommending a RB Sav2 not to be confused with Rb Sav1
SSS uses stock sear and hanger
RB uses stock sear but comes with hanger
RB is very adjustable
comes with install cd
just to be honest the Accu Trigger is also adjustable if your a tinkerer s I am
and IMHO also safer design
I can adjust the AT from 8 oz - 3lbs by modifying the springs and polishing the contact points
I run all my AT at just over a pound seems to be best weight for accuracy -for me personally that is
Timnterra
Well-Known Member
I thought about filing the spring but decided against it. The accu trigger is yours... does $50 shipped sound fair? I don't know what they are worth. I read a review about the rifle basix that said it would not work with the bolt release on the trigger guard is this so? I have a 111 LRH and it has the trigger guard bolt release.
Willoughby
Well-Known Member
I don't think position of bolt release has any bearing on trigger choices
a quick call to RB would confirm this
if you want I'll walk you through the process to adjusting you At down to a lb
just pm me if your interested in doing that
I've owned all the best triggers, Jewel. Huber,RB ect ... and by far the Accu trigger is the best trigger Ive ever used
not to mention the safest of all trigger designs
you can have a 8oz trigger with a 1/4 inch of sear
no one else does that
the At is a 2 stage trigger design
so even when set light
you can still "feel" the trigger's 1st stage before reaching the" Light" 2nd stage
I paid 30.00 for most of my AT 's I paid 10x that amount for some of the others
that were lesser designs IMHO
now all I own are savages & with the exception of one all wear AT's set at just over a pound
one wears a 4 screw that is phenomenal
a quick call to RB would confirm this
if you want I'll walk you through the process to adjusting you At down to a lb
just pm me if your interested in doing that
I've owned all the best triggers, Jewel. Huber,RB ect ... and by far the Accu trigger is the best trigger Ive ever used
not to mention the safest of all trigger designs
you can have a 8oz trigger with a 1/4 inch of sear
no one else does that
the At is a 2 stage trigger design
so even when set light
you can still "feel" the trigger's 1st stage before reaching the" Light" 2nd stage
I paid 30.00 for most of my AT 's I paid 10x that amount for some of the others
that were lesser designs IMHO
now all I own are savages & with the exception of one all wear AT's set at just over a pound
one wears a 4 screw that is phenomenal
Timnterra
Well-Known Member
You've got my attention how do you go about making a 1lb accu-trigger
Willoughby
Well-Known Member
there are several ways I do it
but the easiest way is to bend the tip of the blade spring
till it looks like the tip of the sear spring
then put it in the rear -position - sear position-
this can be done with 2 pair of small needle nose pliers
or similar tools
the bottom of the spring is smaller diameter- but it will work fine
it will just ":sit " in the hole
then take roughly 1/2 of a ink pen spring
to replace the blade spring
using just your fingernails
"help ' the 1st 2-3 coils over the "hump" of the blade
bend the tip of spring just like you did with the other one
again - it will just "sit in the hole
they are both "captured" by compression
and will work flawlessly used in this manner
and will be a pound or just over a pound
another way is to use ink pen springs in both positions
you can actually "thread ' the rear spring into existing threaded hole
a much lighter pull can be achieved using this method
I have had them down to 7-8 oz this way
while still having the added safety feature of the almost 1/4 inch AT blade
3rd and possibly best way
is to find a Gunsmith who will order target or LE accu trigger springs for you
then simply replaced them
target springs will get you under a lb and LE springs will get you a LB
even without sear work
while the above mods work just fine without any further work
polishing the stamped edges and polishing the sear & trigger contact surfaces
with a ceramic stone will help any of the above
but I do not recommend trying it unless you are certain of what is envolved
and are quite confident you can do it
if done incorrectly - if the trigger & sear if the angles are not kept correct- it can ruin them both
as with all firearm repairs
& especially trigger modifications -
common sense demands you test it for function
before actually loading live rounds to shoot
I test by working bolt harder than I ever would normally
then bump-slap- bounce the butt on floor pretty good
if the trigger stays set
then I would feel safe to use it
I have modified several this way and have never had an issue
with the mod itself
however I did forget to re-install the E clip once
and that will cause a slam fire
that was my fault
not a fault of the modification
hope this helps
but the easiest way is to bend the tip of the blade spring
till it looks like the tip of the sear spring
then put it in the rear -position - sear position-
this can be done with 2 pair of small needle nose pliers
or similar tools
the bottom of the spring is smaller diameter- but it will work fine
it will just ":sit " in the hole
then take roughly 1/2 of a ink pen spring
to replace the blade spring
using just your fingernails
"help ' the 1st 2-3 coils over the "hump" of the blade
bend the tip of spring just like you did with the other one
again - it will just "sit in the hole
they are both "captured" by compression
and will work flawlessly used in this manner
and will be a pound or just over a pound
another way is to use ink pen springs in both positions
you can actually "thread ' the rear spring into existing threaded hole
a much lighter pull can be achieved using this method
I have had them down to 7-8 oz this way
while still having the added safety feature of the almost 1/4 inch AT blade
3rd and possibly best way
is to find a Gunsmith who will order target or LE accu trigger springs for you
then simply replaced them
target springs will get you under a lb and LE springs will get you a LB
even without sear work
while the above mods work just fine without any further work
polishing the stamped edges and polishing the sear & trigger contact surfaces
with a ceramic stone will help any of the above
but I do not recommend trying it unless you are certain of what is envolved
and are quite confident you can do it
if done incorrectly - if the trigger & sear if the angles are not kept correct- it can ruin them both
as with all firearm repairs
& especially trigger modifications -
common sense demands you test it for function
before actually loading live rounds to shoot
I test by working bolt harder than I ever would normally
then bump-slap- bounce the butt on floor pretty good
if the trigger stays set
then I would feel safe to use it
I have modified several this way and have never had an issue
with the mod itself
however I did forget to re-install the E clip once
and that will cause a slam fire
that was my fault
not a fault of the modification
hope this helps
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