Why not use expander balls?

Mike: do you turn the full neck then partial neck size on 1/8" for tension?
I turn most cartridges, but not all. Depends on the chamber & fit.
I shoot a Cooper M21 in 223(factory chamber), and there is no need to turn for this, it shoots excellent with standard Lapua brass.

IMO, there is no set benefit to annealing every reload, and unless you can do it perfectly consistent there can be detriment.
If you load develop with constant & perfect annealing, then you may or may not benefit. No way to predict this.

As far as FL sizing necks, there is no good in this. It's bad all the way, just as seating bullets into donut is bad all the way.
I bushing/partial NS for ~1/8-1/4". My loads & targets tell me what they like.
 
I turn most cartridges, but not all. Depends on the chamber & fit.
I shoot a Cooper M21 in 223(factory chamber), and there is no need to turn for this, it shoots excellent with standard Lapua brass.

IMO, there is no set benefit to annealing every reload, and unless you can do it perfectly consistent there can be detriment.
If you load develop with constant & perfect annealing, then you may or may not benefit. No way to predict this.

As far as FL sizing necks, there is no good in this. It's bad all the way, just as seating bullets into donut is bad all the way.
I bushing/partial NS for ~1/8-1/4". My loads & targets tell me what they like.

Thanks Mike!

DocB
 
DocB

Proceedure is:

1) Decap as a complete step.
2) Clean the primer pocket with a RCBS brush and clean the neck with a stainless steel bore brush at least one caliber larger (i.e. 40 cal pistol brush in 375 cal rifle etc.). I chuck the bore brush into a drill to speed it up.
3) If the cases are cruddy I wash them in dishwasher detergent and dry in an oven set at 170 degrees F.
4) Size at this point. Lee collet neck sizer for bolt guns but FL for the automatics and revolvers. All straight sided rifle (45/70) and pistol cartridges get a Lyman "M" neck expander. I have considered pulling the expander balls out of the FL dies and use a dedicated "M" neck die for each caliber.
5) For ammo going into long term storage and really dirty brass I use a dish soap- dishwasher detergent- citric acid- dishwasher detergent neutralizing wash- triple clear water rinse clean cycle w/ 170 Degree oven dry.
6) Prime the cases with a hand priming tool- even for the progressive loader.
7) Powder charging.
8) Bullet seating.

Hope this clears this up. I FL size a case and as I withdraw it I feel for the case to clear the neck. Then, holding the case up into the neck, I adjust the expander ball up into contact with the inside bottom of the case neck, then screw the expander rod down two full turns but leave it loose. Now pull the case down into solid contact with the expander ball and tighten the expander rod lock nut. This locks the expander ball inline with the case neck as it is withdrawn from the die. This is the best way I know to set up a standard expander ball set up but requires separate decapping. But I like that part as it allows me to thoroughly clean the case before I drive crud into the sizer.

Anything to minimize runout and wear/work hardening of the case.

KB
 
DocB

Proceedure is:

1) Decap as a complete step.
2) Clean the primer pocket with a RCBS brush and clean the neck with a stainless steel bore brush at least one caliber larger (i.e. 40 cal pistol brush in 375 cal rifle etc.). I chuck the bore brush into a drill to speed it up.
3) If the cases are cruddy I wash them in dishwasher detergent and dry in an oven set at 170 degrees F.
4) Size at this point. Lee collet neck sizer for bolt guns but FL for the automatics and revolvers. All straight sided rifle (45/70) and pistol cartridges get a Lyman "M" neck expander. I have considered pulling the expander balls out of the FL dies and use a dedicated "M" neck die for each caliber.
5) For ammo going into long term storage and really dirty brass I use a dish soap- dishwasher detergent- citric acid- dishwasher detergent neutralizing wash- triple clear water rinse clean cycle w/ 170 Degree oven dry.
6) Prime the cases with a hand priming tool- even for the progressive loader.
7) Powder charging.
8) Bullet seating.

Hope this clears this up. I FL size a case and as I withdraw it I feel for the case to clear the neck. Then, holding the case up into the neck, I adjust the expander ball up into contact with the inside bottom of the case neck, then screw the expander rod down two full turns but leave it loose. Now pull the case down into solid contact with the expander ball and tighten the expander rod lock nut. This locks the expander ball inline with the case neck as it is withdrawn from the die. This is the best way I know to set up a standard expander ball set up but requires separate decapping. But I like that part as it allows me to thoroughly clean the case before I drive crud into the sizer.

Anything to minimize runout and wear/work hardening of the case.

KB

Ok KB, gotcha.

I was just curious about the decap/expand step with rifle brass, specifically if you expanded as you decapped. I see now that you don't. I don't either for the same reasons, but it's always good to get confirmation from an expert! I use the Lee Collet sizer also and really like it, however I go an additional 1/2 step. After I size, I withdraw the casing and then rotate it 90 degrees and resize once more just to get that extra bit of concentricity.

Thanks for the advice and help. Stay Warm!

DocB
 
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